Grounding new Swim Platform Lights

[Hampton]

I found the hot wire for the stern platform lights from the "Aft Accy" switch at the helm. It dead-ended in the bilge, just in front of the stbd engine. It comes off a 15A breaker. I plan to hook it to one of the leads from each of the two, 12V stern lights. I plan to ground the other lead to the grounding bus at the back of the bilge near the lights.

Any reason not to? Should I run a grounding wire to the front of the bilge near the dead-ended hot wire? Are there separate grounding buses, or are they all inter-connected?

Thanks.

 

[boltman]

John, I grounded mine to the bus that the enigines are grouunded to, plus I ran a separate switch able to carry 25 amps, are these Underwater lights? And do they draw more then 15 amps, Sea Ray told me the switch in the dash labeled Aft Acc can handle 30 amps, yet I kept blowing the circuit breaker every time with my underwater lights.....

 

[Taradise]

Once you get these working - could you please take a picture of the lights installed. Are they under or above water? What is the brand name of the lights?

 

[bluebelly]

I believe you should ground these lights with the batteries that are common to your switch. By that I mean does your port or starboard battery supply power to the acc switch you are connecting the lights to? You would need to ground to the bus bar that corresponds to that battery. On my boat it made a difference because these lights had a ballast in line with the light and I seem to remember that they would not come on at all if the ground wire was on the wrong battery bank.

 

[Hampton]

I believe you should ground these lights with the batteries that are common to your switch. By that I mean does your port or starboard battery supply power to the acc switch you are connecting the lights to? You would need to ground to the bus bar that corresponds to that battery. On my boat it made a difference because these lights had a ballast in line with the light and I seem to remember that they would not come on at all if the ground wire was on the wrong battery bank.

Excellent point. I hadn't thought about that. I'll run the grounding wire to the appropriate grounding point. To test it, I'll only turn on one battery bank at a time.

 

[Hampton]

Once you get these working - could you please take a picture of the lights installed. Are they under or above water? What is the brand name of the lights?

Picture's to follow. On the '05 340, they are mounted on the bottom of the swim platform which is out of the water most of the time (unless coming off or getting on to plane). They are Barneget lights from Overton's. They are identical to the factory installed lights. Another member of this forum said they are the source for factory lights.

 

[Hampton]

John, I grounded mine to the bus that the enigines are grouunded to, plus I ran a separate switch able to carry 25 amps, are these Underwater lights? And do they draw more then 15 amps, Sea Ray told me the switch in the dash labeled Aft Acc can handle 30 amps, yet I kept blowing the circuit breaker every time with my underwater lights.....

Which lights did you use? These are factory lights on the factory switch. They are under the swim platform, but above the water most of the time. They only draw 4 Amps each (times two).

http://www.barnegatlt.com/Specs/SPL.htm

 

[Taradise]

I really like this idea and the cost is alot better than the ones that I've seen that mount to the trim tabs... On their website, they have an underwater light too...I wonder if you could rig them to install on the trib tabs....I like the idea of the lights being in the water all the time if you are sitting in a cove or fishing off the back at night....I think they would project further into the water than if they were above the water...like on your swim platform...right?

 

[Hampton]

I really like this idea and the cost is alot better than the ones that I've seen that mount to the trim tabs... On their website, they have an underwater light too...I wonder if you could rig them to install on the trib tabs....I like the idea of the lights being in the water all the time if you are sitting in a cove or fishing off the back at night....I think they would project further into the water than if they were above the water...like on your swim platform...right?

That sounds likely. If they are above water, some light will be reflected away. Our dealer prefers to mount them above water if able - underwater lights foul quickly.

 

[Taradise]

That sounds likely. If they are above water, some light will be reflected away. Our dealer prefers to mount them above water if able - underwater lights foul quickly.

makes sense...where did you mount them on the swim platform - close to the hull or further back?

 

[fwebster]

John,

The terminal block where you found the hot lead for the lights should also have a ground wire somewhere in the group if wires that terminates there. It should be easy enough to run a 2 conductor (instead of a single) wire from the lights to the terminal block and pick up your fround there.

 

[Hampton]

Thanks Frank, I will.

The lights are mounted down low, about 4 inches from the curve to the regular hull. They are as far outboard as is reasonable to not interfere with the superstructure in the bilge or with the ladder, and equally space from the midline. So, they are about 4 - 6 feet apart (guess).

 

[Taradise]

I'd love to see pictures of them installed but that might not be possible it you boat is sitting in the water...pictures of the working at night would sure be cool too,,,

 

[Pirate]

I believe you should ground these lights with the batteries that are common to your switch. By that I mean does your port or starboard battery supply power to the acc switch you are connecting the lights to? You would need to ground to the bus bar that corresponds to that battery. On my boat it made a difference because these lights had a ballast in line with the light and I seem to remember that they would not come on at all if the ground wire was on the wrong battery bank.

All battery banks share a common ground.

Check the amp draw on the lights and make sure that the wire will support the amperage for the round trip distance. When I install underwater lighting, I usually find that the wiring and switches required for the high amp draw makes it easier/safer/necessary to use a relay.

 

[Hampton]

Thank you Matt. The amperage is 4 per bulb for a total of 8 on a 15 amp circuit and switch. I'm going to wire it direct. As for the common ground, that makes sense to me, but we have dissenting opinions. Any expert tie breakers? I don't mean to insult either of the posters, but we have a difference here.

Either way, I'm going to follow Frank's advice so it will be moot.

 

[Hampton]

I ran it to the terminal block associated with the hot wire leads like Frank W recommended. While I was in there, I took note of another 15A hot lead in the area, for future improvements (Cockpit TV!)

The lights work great. Anyone interested in any more details? I'd be happy to help. I think I'll start another thread.

 

[Hampton]

One of my Barnegat Halogen 12V 4amp underwater lights, mounted above the water, under the swim platform, filled with water and burned out. Anyone know if I can dis-assemble the molded plastic and replace the GE bulb for $12 instead of $149?

Is this it? http://www.beverlyhillselectric.com/ge50par36sp8.html

 

[electricaldoctor]

John, I grounded mine to the bus that the enigines are grouunded to, plus I ran a separate switch able to carry 25 amps, are these Underwater lights? And do they draw more then 15 amps, Sea Ray told me the switch in the dash labeled Aft Acc can handle 30 amps, yet I kept blowing the circuit breaker every time with my underwater lights.....

I don't think that these lights draw that much power. Sounds like a wiring problem. (short circuit) Can you put up an as-built sketch of how you wired your lights? :smt024

~Ken

 

[Hampton]

I removed the port light today. 6 screws into the hull, 3 more for the through hull ring for the wire, disconnected the wires in the bilge, and pulled it out, all while in the water. I pryed the back off of the light fixture. Inside, you'll find black goo with a wire running into it. So, unless you can dig that out, replace the bulb, and then pour more black goo in, and then seal the back plate back on, you probably can't replace the bulb. I'm waiting to hear from Overton's regarding the defective light.

It's been a while, but this didn't develop overnight. We'll see what they say. PS - I should have done the install myself.

 

[Hampton]

Don't drop your tools!!!!!!!!!