Lewmar V700

Seahorse

Member
Jul 30, 2017
36
Surrey, BC, Canada
Boat Info
2002 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer, EZLoader trailer, 2018 Ford F150 King Ranch, tender Zodiac Zoom.
Engines
5.0 Mercruiser, w/Bravo III Drive
Have a Lewmar V700 verticle windlass and want to install on my 2002 260. Looking for a instruction video. As you know there is an existing anchor rode hatch the hole for this isn't in the right place for the windlass. The instructions call for the windlass to sit to the left so as to line up the rode with the windlass and anchor chute. Looks like I need a plate mounted on the deck and then drill the holes for windlass - I think? Also deck isn't flat so need to figure how to allow for this. Has anyone done this installation? Thanks.
 
I did it on my 260DA. As far as wiring and such, just follow the instruction book as it's relatively straight forward as far as that goes. Run the wires from the bilge... up behind the cockpit sink... behind the cubby by the captain's seat (that's where I put the contactor)... between the head the hull side... behind the v-berth backrest... through the anchor locker wall.

I'm not sure if there are any videos out there, but for the most part... a windlass install is a windlass install is a windlass install. It's basically the same from boat to boat. I was able to easily enough figure it out as I went - if you're handy (which I assume you are, otherwise you wouldn't be attempting this) I'm sure you can figure it out, as well.

I filled the hawse pipe hole with epoxy, then re-drilled in the proper space. A starboard adpater plate would cover the hole, but I chose to go a different direction (see pic).

Be sure to check the plywood core underneath the part of the deck that is above anchor locker - if you haven't re-sealed the anchor roller bolts in a while, it could be letting water in. Mine was rotten (this was about 7 or 8 years ago) so I replaced it. While you're at it, pull your deck hatch and check that, too.

 
I did it on my 260DA. As far as wiring and such, just follow the instruction book as it's relatively straight forward as far as that goes. Run the wires from the bilge... up behind the cockpit sink... behind the cubby by the captain's seat (that's where I put the contactor)... between the head the hull side... behind the v-berth backrest... through the anchor locker wall.

I'm not sure if there are any videos out there, but for the most part... a windlass install is a windlass install is a windlass install. It's basically the same from boat to boat. I was able to easily enough figure it out as I went - if you're handy (which I assume you are, otherwise you wouldn't be attempting this) I'm sure you can figure it out, as well.

I filled the hawse pipe hole with epoxy, then re-drilled in the proper space. A starboard adpater plate would cover the hole, but I chose to go a different direction (see pic).

Be sure to check the plywood core underneath the part of the deck that is above anchor locker - if you haven't re-sealed the anchor roller bolts in a while, it could be letting water in. Mine was rotten (this was about 7 or 8 years ago) so I replaced it. While you're at it, pull your deck hatch and check that, too.

Have a Lewmar V700 verticle windlass and want to install on my 2002 260. Looking for a instruction video. As you know there is an existing anchor rode hatch the hole for this isn't in the right place for the windlass. The instructions call for the windlass to sit to the left so as to line up the rode with the windlass and anchor chute. Looks like I need a plate mounted on the deck and then drill the holes for windlass - I think? Also deck isn't flat so need to figure how to allow for this. Has anyone done this installation? Thanks.

Thank you - filling the hawse pipe hole with epoxy is an excellent solution and the wiring route. I had no idea that the wiring could be run through these spaces. The other thing i was wondering about as it only came with a dash switch was whether or not a remote switch could be added? Thanks again.
 
The other thing i was wondering about as it only came with a dash switch was whether or not a remote switch could be added? Thanks again.
I don't have one, but I don't see why it would be any different than adding the foot switches - or even adding it in addition to the foot switches. All that happens is that it should parallel into the circuit. Essentially, it's just a switch - you're just adding another switch. Check the wiring diagrams for the remote switch you have in mind - it's probably pretty straight forward.
 
Add the foot switches. This is my first boat with foot switches, I use them all the time and I love them.
 

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