Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

I just posted a thread on an intermittent water leak that has vexed me for several years. 89 300DA. Turns out the bilge pump thru hull is loose and I'm going to replace all three on the starboard aft quarter since they are plastic and probably original. The only other original thru hulls are the two on the port side by the step area, the cockpit drain, and the cabin sump outlet. Does anybody know how to access these from inside the boat? I can't seem to find a way to get to them. Do I need to pull the water tank and go in from there? Really want the peace of mind not having any original plastic thru hulls on the boat and those two will be the last and probably the hardest to replace. Any help appreciated.
 
SCORPIO said:
I just posted a thread on an intermittent water leak that has vexed me for several years. 89 300DA. Turns out the bilge pump thru hull is loose and I'm going to replace all three on the starboard aft quarter since they are plastic and probably original. The only other original thru hulls are the two on the port side by the step area, the cockpit drain, and the cabin sump outlet. Does anybody know how to access these from inside the boat? I can't seem to find a way to get to them. Do I need to pull the water tank and go in from there? Really want the peace of mind not having any original plastic thru hulls on the boat and those two will be the last and probably the hardest to replace. Any help appreciated.
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Scorpio,

Your drains for the step area and aft cabin can easily be reached from the floor hatch as you step down from the drivers seat that is ABOVE the water tank. I just walked out and opened mine up and the sun happened to hit those two plastic drains and lit that compartment up. You can get to them from that hatch. I'm not saying it isn't an afternoon of boat yoga, but if the compartment is empty, you should be able to sit on your knees and reach those two fittings.

Good call on the loose bilge fitting! I've always had a wet bilge. The pump might run during a weekend or it might not. Always about a gallon of water that runs out when I pull it up on the trailer. I might check that before we hit the water this weekend! Replacing 31 year old plastic thru hulls?? So soon? Yeah, probably a really good idea!
 
Yea now you two got me thinking about those also thank for the help guys More winter work like I don’t have enough. Put a minn Kota mk345 charger in this weekend will let you guys know how it goes
 
Sundancer said:
Scorpio,

Your drains for the step area and aft cabin can easily be reached from the floor hatch as you step down from the drivers seat that is ABOVE the water tank. I just walked out and opened mine up and the sun happened to hit those two plastic drains and lit that compartment up. You can get to them from that hatch. I'm not saying it isn't an afternoon of boat yoga, but if the compartment is empty, you should be able to sit on your knees and reach those two fittings.

Good call on the loose bilge fitting! I've always had a wet bilge. The pump might run during a weekend or it might not. Always about a gallon of water that runs out when I pull it up on the trailer. I might check that before we hit the water this weekend! Replacing 31 year old plastic thru hulls?? So soon? Yeah, probably a really good idea!
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Thanks for the info Jim, that is a big help. I really didn't want to pull the tank.
I was surprised that those thru hills were put in with no sealer, no wonder they leak. I'll bet there were all out in that way. I m frankly amazed at how much water was getting in before any looseness could be detected. As I said in the other post, this has been an issue for years and I inspect those fittings all the time. A little sealer would have prevented that. Well, another winter project for me.
 
SCORPIO said:
Thanks for the info Jim, that is a big help. I really didn't want to pull the tank.
I was surprised that those thru hills were put in with no sealer, no wonder they leak. I'll bet there were all out in that way. I m frankly amazed at how much water was getting in before any looseness could be detected. As I said in the other post, this has been an issue for years and I inspect those fittings all the time. A little sealer would have prevented that. Well, another winter project for me.
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Chris,

At least it's easy access and it should be a quick fix. I'm not sure how the hoses hold up through the years, but mine seem pretty healthy in the engine compartment where there is more heat and things that might cause it to breakdown. Those in the aft cabin area rarely see much in the way of heat, UV or any chemicals, so I would think they would be OK to use. BUT, they are 32 years old and I haven't subjected them to a test to determine if they are still good and not brittle. I'll be watching!

I DID have my first bearing go out on the trailer. I figured they are all about ready and asked the tire guy to replace all six. He said he'd check and doubted they would need it. He said afterward, they were all pretty worn and had a lot of place. I've either over or under greased them depending on who you talk too. Greasing the hub once a year with enough grease to push the old out and you can see the new grease apparently pushes the seal out the back. BUT, greasing it with a stroke or two after each dunking doesn't always push the water out. I've usually done the first method at the beginning of the season and then just put a few caulks of grease in after I retrieve and head home. After all the miles I put on the trailer, I'd say 14 years on the bearings is pretty dang good, but there could be some folks with more miles than I have. We are towing every weekend, usually about 70 miles round trip with a good 500 miler once or twice a season. Those are usually to Idaho or the San Juan Islands.

Don't get me started on tires! I've had new tires last one or two years and blow and I've had tires go 7 plus years before I get nervous (or forget!) and replace them. I figured it was time and just did all 6 tires last weekend. So I should be guaranteed not to blow one while it's sitting in the RV Barn this winter! LOL!!! On the road is another story! I just hold my breath! I seem to average about 1 a year. I guess I should try some Carlisle's or Maxxis which seem to have good following for trailers, not necessarily boat trailers.

I love the old boat and how it performs. It's got some get up and go, although not like your boat with 6.2's! It still keeps running and when I look at upgrading to newer or slightly smaller, I can't seem to pull the trigger! It just makes more sense to keep this 300 DA!
 
Sundancer, I agree on the hoses. They seem like heavy duty hose and still look supple after all this time. The ones in the bilge look good so I'm guessing, as you stated, the midship hoses never see daylight, excessive heat or chemicals, they should be fine, but I'm going to check anyway. They don't have any pressure so that's a good thing. I did replace my AC pump hose since it's in the cabin and has a lot of water flowing thru it almost constantly in the summer. If it broke, the pump would fill the cabin up pretty fast, which is why I shut down the AC when we aren't aboard.
I put on a new set of load range E tires hoping to avoid any more tire issues. I repacked all the bearings by hand and replaced the seals. I had one that ran hotter than the rest and the outer bearing cage was rusty so I replaced both inner and outer on that hub. I'm also now carrying a spare complete, greased hub just in case. Most of the trailer tires are made in China, even Carlisle. Ironically, I live only about 15 miles from Carlisle PA, where the Carlisle tire company started. The tire I got were made in Tiwan (sp), for whatever that's worth. The tire guy said he thought the old tires were running too close to their max weight and may have fatigued from that. Hopefully the heavier tires will do the job better.
 
SCORPIO said:
Sundancer, I agree on the hoses. They seem like heavy duty hose and still look supple after all this time. The ones in the bilge look good so I'm guessing, as you stated, the midship hoses never see daylight, excessive heat or chemicals, they should be fine, but I'm going to check anyway. They don't have any pressure so that's a good thing. I did replace my AC pump hose since it's in the cabin and has a lot of water flowing thru it almost constantly in the summer. If it broke, the pump would fill the cabin up pretty fast, which is why I shut down the AC when we aren't aboard.
I put on a new set of load range E tires hoping to avoid any more tire issues. I repacked all the bearings by hand and replaced the seals. I had one that ran hotter than the rest and the outer bearing cage was rusty so I replaced both inner and outer on that hub. I'm also now carrying a spare complete, greased hub just in case. Most of the trailer tires are made in China, even Carlisle. Ironically, I live only about 15 miles from Carlisle PA, where the Carlisle tire company started. The tire I got were made in Tiwan (sp), for whatever that's worth. The tire guy said he thought the old tires were running too close to their max weight and may have fatigued from that. Hopefully the heavier tires will do the job better.
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I've been running the 10 Ply E tires for 14 years. I get them from a regional tire shop. I'm sure they are made in China. I went with the E rating so that 5 tires and the hitch could fully support the load. At least that was the theory if I need to suspend an axle and limp in. I figure the total load is about 15,000 lbs and each tire should be able to support 3,000 lbs. 5 at 3,000 covers the load and the hitch takes a little bit off each tire or adds it to others. Last time I scaled it out of storage it was around 13,500 pounds minus water, 1/2 fuel load and other "gear". Seems like I came up around 14,500 lbs as the best guess fully loaded. I'll have to weigh it now when it is full. I think what I see is the back axle takes the brunt of the turning and backing up "scraping". Those always look worn on the edges from scrubbing in turns. I would have thought the front wheel on each side would hit more objects, but I think that backing up and turning is really the issue. I've had two back tires remove the tread completely. I saw one thrown way up in the air. It was kind of funny seeing that in the rear view mirror going straight up! The tire wasn't even flat. That happened when it was 108 degrees and we were 40 miles from home after driving over 200 miles. The other ones that I remember, were usually on a hot day as well. I'm going to go at night when it's hot from now on! That might save a bunch of tire money too! I've never driven it at night, but I have everything I need and might try it next summer!
 
Sundancer said:
I've been running the 10 Ply E tires for 14 years. I get them from a regional tire shop. I'm sure they are made in China. I went with the E rating so that 5 tires and the hitch could fully support the load. At least that was the theory if I need to suspend an axle and limp in. I figure the total load is about 15,000 lbs and each tire should be able to support 3,000 lbs. 5 at 3,000 covers the load and the hitch takes a little bit off each tire or adds it to others. Last time I scaled it out of storage it was around 13,500 pounds minus water, 1/2 fuel load and other "gear". Seems like I came up around 14,500 lbs as the best guess fully loaded. I'll have to weigh it now when it is full. I think what I see is the back axle takes the brunt of the turning and backing up "scraping". Those always look worn on the edges from scrubbing in turns. I would have thought the front wheel on each side would hit more objects, but I think that backing up and turning is really the issue. I've had two back tires remove the tread completely. I saw one thrown way up in the air. It was kind of funny seeing that in the rear view mirror going straight up! The tire wasn't even flat. That happened when it was 108 degrees and we were 40 miles from home after driving over 200 miles. The other ones that I remember, were usually on a hot day as well. I'm going to go at night when it's hot from now on! That might save a bunch of tire money too! I've never driven it at night, but I have everything I need and might try it next summer!
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Are those weights boat and trailer or just boat? I'm assuming boat and trailer.
I figured my boat with minimal gear, half fuel, no water or waste was around 11,500 lbs. My aluminum trailer weighs 2,000 lbs for a total of 13,500 lbs.
 
SCORPIO said:
Are those weights boat and trailer or just boat? I'm assuming boat and trailer.
I figured my boat with minimal gear, half fuel, no water or waste was around 11,500 lbs. My aluminum trailer weighs 2,000 lbs for a total of 13,500 lbs.
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Yes, boat and trailer. My trailer is home made and channel steel. It's a heavy brute! I'm guessing it's 2,500 lbs or more. Based on your weight, we should be close with the difference being the trailer weight. It wouldn't surprise me if mine was 3,000 lbs! I don't have A/C, but that's not a huge difference and batteries, chain rode, etc., could easily part of the difference. I need a lewmar Profish and more chain. I'm getting to old to be lifting the anchor! Especially when you have a heavy anchor and 30 feet of HEAVY chain to go with it! I went a little overboard there.

I'm running 15's on my trailer as well. I'm not sure what difference rim size would make? Bigger is better? I would think it would raise things up a small amount, but not significantly. I'm still 12'6" high on the trailer. At least, I think I am!
 
Sundancer said:
Yes, boat and trailer. My trailer is home made and channel steel. It's a heavy brute! I'm guessing it's 2,500 lbs or more. Based on your weight, we should be close with the difference being the trailer weight. It wouldn't surprise me if mine was 3,000 lbs! I don't have A/C, but that's not a huge difference and batteries, chain rode, etc., could easily part of the difference. I need a lewmar Profish and more chain. I'm getting to old to be lifting the anchor! Especially when you have a heavy anchor and 30 feet of HEAVY chain to go with it! I went a little overboard there.

I'm running 15's on my trailer as well. I'm not sure what difference rim size would make? Bigger is better? I would think it would raise things up a small amount, but not significantly. I'm still 12'6" high on the trailer. At least, I think I am!
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I put a Lewmar Profish 1000 with remote control on mine with 30 feet of chain rode and 400 feet of 5/8" 8 plait line. I love it, one of the best mods I've made.
 
I want to replace the cabin windows on my Weekender 300. I was looking at searayman on eBay and wondering why the only option is tinted. I'm guessing it's for some practical reason, but can't think of one other than keeping the cabin cool. Anyone know any other reason?

I would like to make them clear so more light comes in and we can see outside better.
 
How about this for a charging system minn Kota 3 bank 45 amp charger with blue sea auto charging relays and bluesea switches
E086A37E-4869-4739-BDB0-184C5FE2B805.jpeg
 
SCORPIO said:
I put a Lewmar Profish 1000 with remote control on mine with 30 feet of chain rode and 400 feet of 5/8" 8 plait line. I love it, one of the best mods I've made.
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400 feet!!! WOW!! That's enough scope for 61 feet under the boat in a bad storm! LOL!! That just seems like way too much, but if the weather whipped up it would be nice to have. I have 30 feet of chain attached to 150 to 200 feet of 5/8 three strand. I think I flipped the rope end for end two years ago because one end wasn't ever seeing the light of day. It is now! At Priest I was anchoring in 30 feet of water, but because of the slope under water angled toward the shallow shore the anchor stuck very well. I backed up and couldn't pull it out going towards shore and I had about 90 feet out where the buoy was. Held all week long with the other end tied to a tree. We'd just back up to the float and run the line down one side. I can't imagine carrying 300 feet to shore! Of course, with a windlass I wouldn't need to do that. I'd just need a rope from a tree to the rear of the boat. I was looking at a Lewmar last spring and the swim platform took precedence. How often does a USED swim platform for your boat come up for sale? I jumped on it! It's a GREAT addition and makes that first step out of the cockpit a lot easier. The long ladder that came with it reaches almost to the ground when it's on the trailer too. I think a new one is about $3,000 and would look new against a 31 year old boat with some battle scars! This one was perfect and blends in very well.
 
Captain Sly said:
I want to replace the cabin windows on my Weekender 300. I was looking at searayman on eBay and wondering why the only option is tinted. I'm guessing it's for some practical reason, but can't think of one other than keeping the cabin cool. Anyone know any other reason?

I would like to make them clear so more light comes in and we can see outside better.
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Sly,

You'd have to have them cut out of something else. I've never seen a Sea Ray that has anything BUT tinted windows. I can see why you'd want it, but I'm not sure there would be that much more light allowed in? Only one way to find out!
 
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