Drifter22ft
Active Member
That’s the same swim deck I have you will love it
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Looks good!I FINALLY got time to install the swimplatform that I found in Phoenix last April. Installed and ready to go tomorrow morning! It's HUGE! View attachment 91614 View attachment 91616 View attachment 91615
I just posted a thread on an intermittent water leak that has vexed me for several years. 89 300DA. Turns out the bilge pump thru hull is loose and I'm going to replace all three on the starboard aft quarter since they are plastic and probably original. The only other original thru hulls are the two on the port side by the step area, the cockpit drain, and the cabin sump outlet. Does anybody know how to access these from inside the boat? I can't seem to find a way to get to them. Do I need to pull the water tank and go in from there? Really want the peace of mind not having any original plastic thru hulls on the boat and those two will be the last and probably the hardest to replace. Any help appreciated.
Thanks for the info Jim, that is a big help. I really didn't want to pull the tank.Scorpio,
Your drains for the step area and aft cabin can easily be reached from the floor hatch as you step down from the drivers seat that is ABOVE the water tank. I just walked out and opened mine up and the sun happened to hit those two plastic drains and lit that compartment up. You can get to them from that hatch. I'm not saying it isn't an afternoon of boat yoga, but if the compartment is empty, you should be able to sit on your knees and reach those two fittings.
Good call on the loose bilge fitting! I've always had a wet bilge. The pump might run during a weekend or it might not. Always about a gallon of water that runs out when I pull it up on the trailer. I might check that before we hit the water this weekend! Replacing 31 year old plastic thru hulls?? So soon? Yeah, probably a really good idea!
Thanks for the info Jim, that is a big help. I really didn't want to pull the tank.
I was surprised that those thru hills were put in with no sealer, no wonder they leak. I'll bet there were all out in that way. I m frankly amazed at how much water was getting in before any looseness could be detected. As I said in the other post, this has been an issue for years and I inspect those fittings all the time. A little sealer would have prevented that. Well, another winter project for me.
Sundancer, I agree on the hoses. They seem like heavy duty hose and still look supple after all this time. The ones in the bilge look good so I'm guessing, as you stated, the midship hoses never see daylight, excessive heat or chemicals, they should be fine, but I'm going to check anyway. They don't have any pressure so that's a good thing. I did replace my AC pump hose since it's in the cabin and has a lot of water flowing thru it almost constantly in the summer. If it broke, the pump would fill the cabin up pretty fast, which is why I shut down the AC when we aren't aboard.
I put on a new set of load range E tires hoping to avoid any more tire issues. I repacked all the bearings by hand and replaced the seals. I had one that ran hotter than the rest and the outer bearing cage was rusty so I replaced both inner and outer on that hub. I'm also now carrying a spare complete, greased hub just in case. Most of the trailer tires are made in China, even Carlisle. Ironically, I live only about 15 miles from Carlisle PA, where the Carlisle tire company started. The tire I got were made in Tiwan (sp), for whatever that's worth. The tire guy said he thought the old tires were running too close to their max weight and may have fatigued from that. Hopefully the heavier tires will do the job better.
I've been running the 10 Ply E tires for 14 years. I get them from a regional tire shop. I'm sure they are made in China. I went with the E rating so that 5 tires and the hitch could fully support the load. At least that was the theory if I need to suspend an axle and limp in. I figure the total load is about 15,000 lbs and each tire should be able to support 3,000 lbs. 5 at 3,000 covers the load and the hitch takes a little bit off each tire or adds it to others. Last time I scaled it out of storage it was around 13,500 pounds minus water, 1/2 fuel load and other "gear". Seems like I came up around 14,500 lbs as the best guess fully loaded. I'll have to weigh it now when it is full. I think what I see is the back axle takes the brunt of the turning and backing up "scraping". Those always look worn on the edges from scrubbing in turns. I would have thought the front wheel on each side would hit more objects, but I think that backing up and turning is really the issue. I've had two back tires remove the tread completely. I saw one thrown way up in the air. It was kind of funny seeing that in the rear view mirror going straight up! The tire wasn't even flat. That happened when it was 108 degrees and we were 40 miles from home after driving over 200 miles. The other ones that I remember, were usually on a hot day as well. I'm going to go at night when it's hot from now on! That might save a bunch of tire money too! I've never driven it at night, but I have everything I need and might try it next summer!
What are you referring to?Do you guys still have the 16.5
My trailer has 15s on it.Tire size my trailer has 16 . 5 rims
Are those weights boat and trailer or just boat? I'm assuming boat and trailer.
I figured my boat with minimal gear, half fuel, no water or waste was around 11,500 lbs. My aluminum trailer weighs 2,000 lbs for a total of 13,500 lbs.
I put a Lewmar Profish 1000 with remote control on mine with 30 feet of chain rode and 400 feet of 5/8" 8 plait line. I love it, one of the best mods I've made.Yes, boat and trailer. My trailer is home made and channel steel. It's a heavy brute! I'm guessing it's 2,500 lbs or more. Based on your weight, we should be close with the difference being the trailer weight. It wouldn't surprise me if mine was 3,000 lbs! I don't have A/C, but that's not a huge difference and batteries, chain rode, etc., could easily part of the difference. I need a lewmar Profish and more chain. I'm getting to old to be lifting the anchor! Especially when you have a heavy anchor and 30 feet of HEAVY chain to go with it! I went a little overboard there.
I'm running 15's on my trailer as well. I'm not sure what difference rim size would make? Bigger is better? I would think it would raise things up a small amount, but not significantly. I'm still 12'6" high on the trailer. At least, I think I am!
I put a Lewmar Profish 1000 with remote control on mine with 30 feet of chain rode and 400 feet of 5/8" 8 plait line. I love it, one of the best mods I've made.
I want to replace the cabin windows on my Weekender 300. I was looking at searayman on eBay and wondering why the only option is tinted. I'm guessing it's for some practical reason, but can't think of one other than keeping the cabin cool. Anyone know any other reason?
I would like to make them clear so more light comes in and we can see outside better.