Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

Sundancer said:
The solar is nothing special. I ran two wires through the arch and ran them out through an old hole where a spotlight used to sit on top. It's been missing for years! The other end terminated on the side panel where I mounted the solar charge controller. I ran two wires down to the batteries and put the positive on one and the negative on the other. That way it charges both house batteries. As I mentioned before, I tend to run my switch in the "Both" position. When we stop somewhere, I can mount the flexible panels up on top of the bimini. Last year I just tied the two panels together and tied them to the windshield wipers and the other end to the arch. Wyrman suggested some magnets, so I bought some rare earth magnets that should hold it down and eliminate the ropes. The 200-watt panel was enough to recharge each day by around noon or so. I would turn up the fridge to make some ice in the afternoon when I had excess power! I typically run lights at night, the fridge on 12v, water pump, radio and GPS during a 24 hour cycle. This year, I may be running an all mode ham radio off that setup as well. Shouldn't be much of a problem!
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Are your specs upthread somewhere on what panels and controller you're using? (I've been having issues searching the thread no matter what I'm looking for; probably user error!) I gave up trying to have my generator repaired, and am betting a solar solution will be less expensive than replacing it. I'm sure First Mate would just love to have a project this year, too.... ;) Truly, though, if it means we can use the fridge all weekend, I know he'll be all for it.
 
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trflgrl said:
Are your specs upthread somewhere on what panels and controller you're using?

I'm sure First Mate would just love to have a project this year, too.... ;) Truly, though, if it means we can use the fridge all weekend, I know he'll be all for it.
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Specifications were simple. I just wanted to keep the fridge running and not have to worry about the batteries! I chose 200 watts, but I can add to it down the road if it's not enough. The two panels are parallel and wired to an Epever MPPT 30 amp controller. I think the 30-amp is good for 400 watts I believe. They just sit on the bimini currently. I used paracord to tie them together but Wyrman suggested some rare-earth magnets. I ordered some and I'll switch to use those this summer. The panels I got were the flexible type. They don't last as long, but they are much lighter than a traditional hard panel and that makes them easier to store. I have them in the aft cabin next to the wall in the original foam packing they came in. I used this for the first time last August when we parked Saturday night after a 40 mile run and didn't fire up the engines until Wednesday. The batteries were fully charged each day by around 1:00 PM or so. It was just took the worry about the batteries out of the equation!

The two Dokio panels were about $100 each. The controller and additional plugs, wiring, exterior clamshell where it exits the arch were another $100 to $120 I think. For just over $300, it really makes anchorages worry free!!
 
Here is the controller I ordered. It's an MPPT which is considerably more efficient than a PWM type and worth the money. These have gone up a little bit, like everything else. It's $106 on Amazon:

Amazon.com: EPEVER MPPT 30A Solar Charge Controller, 30 Amp Solar Charge Regulator Mppt 12V/24V Auto Max 100V Input Negative Grounded Controller with LCD Display for Gel Sealed Flooded Lithium Battery Charging : Patio, Lawn & Garden

I used these to plug both panels into one wire going to the charger:
Amazon.com: BougeRV Solar Connectors Y Branch Parallel Adapter Cable Wire Plug Tool Kit for Solar Panel : Patio, Lawn & Garden

I can't find the panels that I bought on Amazon, but they are available on Ebay new for $95:
Dokio 100w 200w 400w 1000w ETFE flexible Solar Panel For RV/Boat/Home | eBay

The wiring from the 2 into 1 plug to the charger:
Amazon.com: HQST Solar Panel Extension Cable 10 Feet 10AWG with Female and Male Connector Solar Panel Adaptor Kit Tool (10FT Red + 10FT Black) : Patio, Lawn & Garden

The clamshell where it exits the arch:
Amazon.com: Cable Entry Gland Waterproof - Cable Entry Plate, Fits Cables 3mm to 12mm for Solar Panels, Motorhomes, Caravans, Boats and RV's : Patio, Lawn & Garden

The rest was just sweat equity!
 
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Me again Dancer. When you did your carpet in your transom, did you make a pattern, eyeball it, or did you layout the carpet and just cut as you went along?
 
Bad news the magnets I used 140 lbs didn’t work in three week I didn’t go to my boat we got hit with heavy winds and blew they off. So with the battery switch on and the frig running got there to dead batteries smelly boat. Lol getting bigger magnets any ideas
 
Still Shear Pleasure said:
Me again Dancer. When you did your carpet in your transom, did you make a pattern, eyeball it, or did you layout the carpet and just cut as you went along?
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I just used the old carpet as a pattern, but I think you could lay out what you want with cardboard or something else to get it the way you want it. Then the carpet guys can cut and bind it for you. I still have snaps in the floor, but I've never put the female snap in the carpet itself. It doesn't move around because it has rubber ribs on the backside that keep it from moving and allow some airflow so it doesn't get moldy smelling. We use it about 50% of the time and just leave it in the garage the rest of the time.
 
Drifter22ft said:
Bad news the magnets I used 140 lbs didn’t work in three week I didn’t go to my boat we got hit with heavy winds and blew they off. So with the battery switch on and the frig running got there to dead batteries smelly boat. Lol getting bigger magnets any ideas
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Who knows how strong those winds were! I tied my two panels on initially. I tied the internal corners from each panel together. Using the outside four corners, I tied the front to the windshield wipers and the rear to the arch. It was solid, but I would remove it when traveling.
 
Drifter22ft said:
Bad news the magnets I used 140 lbs didn’t work in three week I didn’t go to my boat we got hit with heavy winds and blew they off. So with the battery switch on and the frig running got there to dead batteries smelly boat. Lol getting bigger magnets any ideas
Click to expand...
That sucks!
 
:cool: Have an 88 300 with overhead sliding two-panel entry door. Rollers completely toast. Doesn’t look like it’s a big deal to fix, but where to get the rollers? Ace Hardware? What is the easiest way to replace them? Thanks a bunch!
 
My left engine started making a squealing sound right as I pulled out of the slip, that was followed by some smoke and a lot of bilging in the water some of it oily.

Came to discover this exhaust water hose came disconnected and was just pouring water freely into the hull.

Next to it is another tube that appears to be disconnected, not sure where it goes or if its supposed to be like that, almost seems like it snapped as there is a little bit of jagged plastic sticking out of it (the one that isn't blue).

Does anyone know where these hoses go and if I can get to it without having to pull these engines out?

tubes.JPEG
 
Are your motors freshwater cooled, if so it may be where the Water heater runs to the thermostat housing. It’s hard to tell from the photo
 
Yes they are. I believe this is from the sea water pump and I'm trying to find a reference part # so I can study what it looks like, then go back to the boat and see evidence of them breaking off.

I've got the 5.7 mercruisers in my 88 weekender

One hose runs from the water line coming into the boat, the other hose (not the blue one) goes around underneath the engine towards the side of the boat and I believe that goes to something thermostat related
 
Usually the hose running from the strainer to the pump is double clamped as is the exhaust hose. IF the intake hose was cut to short or is to tight it will need to be replaced.

If the hose blew off while the motor was running the impeller is shot and will need to be replaced. Mine are bronze pumps and can be rebuilt. The raw water pump is on the right side of each motor (looking towards the bow). They can be a pia to get off and on but it can be done. IF you pull the pump go on and replace the hose going from the pump to the oil cooler. Also check your belts and replace if needed. You’ll have to readjust them after it’s all back together. Double clamp and be sure to mark your intake hose/intake side of the pump. Dish soap for the hoses is your best friend also it will help you find out if you put the hose back on incorrectly. Bubbles in the exhaust is good.

Another part I’ve added to my oil change routine is tightening clamps.
 
Yes, the hoses are double clamped. Its not that they came off, but the part broke off completely, here is a picture of it.

I just took the pulley off first and let it hang, then unscrewed the pump and that came right off. Then I used gloves and pliers to yank the broken inlet/exhaust out of the tubes.

So now I'll just reverse the process. I am worried there are pieces of impeller somewhere, how crazy do I have to get chasing that down?

The belt and hose itself seems to be in great condition. I think the hoses are fine too. I like the idea of the dish soap trick!

67795389227__B3BC2C26-7E5D-4682-A8DD-85D9C3804A30.JPEG
 
Most if not all of mine were in the oil cooler. It’s next inline from the raw water pump. I used a good light and some needle nose. You can also back flush the system by removing the raw water hose from the heat exchanger.

Pull the impeller first and see if any parts are missing

I’ve never seen a pump fail like that. Now I’m loving my Bronze ones
 
The impeller did have a couple veins missing.

Yea stick with the bronze, I can't believe they made this part with plastic and snapped off like that. yikes
 
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