Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

I want to make the switch to 4 blade props on my DA. It takes a looong time to plane and if you are sitting down, for about 30 seconds all you can see is sky. I also wouldn't mind holding plane at lower rpms. I've got 15x19 aluminum 3 blades on my Alphas now, do you think going to 15x17 4 blade stainless would be low enough or do should I drop to 15x15 ss 4 blades?
 
Scorpio keep in mind I have inboards but I will be happy to find you my sizes. I was always pissed to get on my friends 34' and he would go two boat lengths and be settled down and gone. I swear it felt like two football fields before mine settled.
 
SCORPIO said:
I want to make the switch to 4 blade props on my DA. It takes a looong time to plane and if you are sitting down, for about 30 seconds all you can see is sky. I also wouldn't mind holding plane at lower rpms. I've got 15x19 aluminum 3 blades on my Alphas now, do you think going to 15x17 4 blade stainless would be low enough or do should I drop to 15x15 ss 4 blades?
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Granted, I have a different boat, however, I went with the 16x16 elephant ear prop on my Alpha drive (454 big block). Huge difference and you may want to consider that for your twins. My boat now stays on plane at 17 mph and gets on plane rather quickly. I did loose about 6 mph on the top end, but it was a worthy trade off in performance. The prop I replaced was a 15 x 17p and although the top end was nice, she took forever to get on plane, and as soon as I cracked the throttle below 4000, she would fall off plane. Not good for a Great Lakes boat running in big seas.
 
I dont know why there is such a disparity in performance, but I am bone stock with oem props and top out at 38/9 at 4000 rpm.

I get on plane at 2800 and cruise at 25 and can go all the way to 3100 without opening the secondaries going 28.

boat has every option but the gen set, even the bigger fuel tanks.
 
3400 before my secondary's open up that's when the fuel gauges seem to just start to drop.

risers and manifolds are being replaced today. That will be the last of my winter wish list. June will be new radar month
 
lucky.. I have a large list this year..

hoping to button up the back seat this weekend.
 
Hi everyone! I'm a newbie, just joined CSR and this is my first post.
I finally closed the deal on a 1988 340DA end of last week. She's a good solid boat, owned by only 2 guys, both worked at the local Sea Ray Dealer.
Been doing clean up, waxing, cleaned the carpets and just ordered new fabric to have the salon seats reupholstered.
Presently, I'm trying to get the fresh water supply line unplugged, it has RV antifreeze jelly in it. My big craftsmen shop vac should take care of that this afternoon.

Been reading many of your posts and really enjoy the info that is shared on here. Hopefully I can contribute. I have plenty of projects to do and will post pics and info as I go along.

This is my first real boat. I purchased a Lund 14' last summer and did a full restore on it. But that just isn't enough boat for me. :smt043
So in less than a year, I've gone from 14' to 34' which means I'll need to buy a 540 next year!!!!
 
has anyone ever replaced the transmission cooler on a weekender ? my starboard one broke.
 
you are more than welcome to hang out with us !

most 300 owners fantasize about owning a 340/390 lol
 
Pure84GTT said:
has anyone ever replaced the transmission cooler on a weekender ? my starboard one broke.
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Yes... it sucks! I did the port side. Send me a PM with a number and i can talk to you about it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
OK NOW - finally getting to doing something about this now that spring is here. Someone suggested glassing pads to the transom and screwing into the pads. I think I'll have the same issue with the (lack of) strength of the screws I'd be using.

I have read elsewhere suggestions to through-bolt with backing plates and lots of sealant in the holes, bolts, etc. I am liking this option for both simplicity and strength, and it seems I'll be able to do so because it seems to be clear of any stringers.

Thoughts? Feedback? PS - pictures of any solutions would be greatly appreciated!


efoxner said:
Help! 1987 Sea Ray Sundancer 300 swim platform support issues. I have had the boat for three seasons. During the second season the starboard support screws pulled out of the transom, and I discovered the port screws were loose.

I poked around and found out the wood was rotted where the screws went into the transom on both sides. When I got done digging it all out it was luckily only 2" diameter of rotted wood. Not bad for what was at the time a 28 year old boat. I dried it all out as best I could over several weeks, repaired the holes, made up new brackets with thick wall stainless and stainless brackets that would typically be used topside. I relocated the screws a couple inches inboard of the repairs to hit solid fiberglass instead of drilling the repaired area.

THE PROBLEM: The brand new heavier screws on the starboard side rotted and broke again only a few months into the season. Does anyone have suggestions on what may be going on (i.e.electrolysis) and what I could/should do for a longer lasting solution?
Click to expand...
 
Pure84GTT said:
you are more than welcome to hang out with us !

most 300 owners fantasize about owning a 340/390 lol
Click to expand...

Hush, PLEASE! I had a guy offer to buy mine today. I told him 18.5. There's a 39' that I would love to have on the other slip
 
Ok, that said. I just got a nice Battlewagon 6" radar mount with a masthead light. Problem is the new mast light has two wires (red/black) my older mast has three white,blue,and gray. Can anyone help, or did I get the wrong mast?
 
efoxner said:
OK NOW - finally getting to doing something about this now that spring is here. Someone suggested glassing pads to the transom and screwing into the pads. I think I'll have the same issue with the (lack of) strength of the screws I'd be using.

I have read elsewhere suggestions to through-bolt with backing plates and lots of sealant in the holes, bolts, etc. I am liking this option for both simplicity and strength, and it seems I'll be able to do so because it seems to be clear of any stringers.

Thoughts? Feedback? PS - pictures of any solutions would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

Why would you want six large sized holes directly through your transom into the bilge? The sealer will eventually crack and leak, allowing water not only into your transom core but into the boat as well.
I'm probably the guy you are referring to regarding the pads. I put them on my boat as I don't like screws going directly into the core material. Those struts take a lot of load and the sealer will separate and allow water into the core. At least if the pads eventually go bad, they can be cut off and new ones attached very easily, think of them as being semi sacrificial.
Do what you want, it's your boat, but I don't like the idea of through bolts.
 
H2ONUT said:
Yes... it sucks! I did the port side. Send me a PM with a number and i can talk to you about it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

will I have to remove the manifold and riser on the starboard side you think ?
 
Pure84GTT said:
will I have to remove the manifold and riser on the starboard side you think ?
Click to expand...
I would. There is only 1 bolt that holds the cooler in place, and its a pain in the azz to get too. Once its free then disconnect the in and out water lines, and then then the lines to the trans. No need to disconnect the lines on the trans.

I had water in the trans also when mine went. It took 5 fluid changes to get the water out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
SCORPIO - I like your idea of the pads. Just trying to figure out how to do it. Do you have a pic of what you did? Since they are "sacraficial" pads did you use exterior plywood instead of marine? How long did you have to soak them and then if necessary let them sit out before glassing them in place? Can you give quick step by step for someone that hasn't worked with resin et al before? Any help would be appreciated!
 
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