Official 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 Thread

Strecker25 said:
looks great! This is obviously personal preference, but I would think about maybe removing that gold boot stripe and leaving the black?
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You are not wrong! I've been thinking of doing that, but I also have the gold piping in my upholstery for now until I replace that too, so I am still in the debating stage lol.
 
jonl21 said:
You are not wrong! I've been thinking of doing that, but I also have the gold piping in my upholstery for now until I replace that too, so I am still in the debating stage lol.
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sounds like us. I had everything replaced and converted to black or silver and my last step was to get the piping dyed but then we sold the boat.

not the best picture, but I did the Stardust panels on the dash
04E4FFAC-DAAB-4678-9ADF-A7E984C983E9.jpeg
 
Strecker25 said:
sounds like us. I had everything replaced and converted to black or silver and my last step was to get the piping dyed but then we sold the boat.

not the best picture, but I did the Stardust panels on the dash
View attachment 142498
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I love those panels, part of me is learning towards pure digital readouts using Fox marine Gateways, which would make me need new panels, but we will see.
 
Starting Over said:
Ah, my 98 has Alpha outdrives… I am finding that it looks like 14.25” x 17p for the best hole shot and top speed combo… and 14.25 x 19p for a slightly better top end and a better hole shot that the factory stainless 3 blades
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I'm looking to try out the 14.25x17p 4 blades as well, how are you liking them? I have twin 5.7 tbi w/alphas. I currently have 3 blade 17p and with my wife and I they do great, but get a few people on there and I have to use trim tabs to get on plane. Cruise at 3400 at 29-30mph.
 
Justind said:
I'm looking to try out the 14.25x17p 4 blades as well, how are you liking them? I have twin 5.7 tbi w/alphas. I currently have 3 blade 17p and with my wife and I they do great, but get a few people on there and I have to use trim tabs to get on plane. Cruise at 3400 at 29-30mph.
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The 14.25"x17 4 blades seemed to do the trick. Still cruised at 30mph @ 3350 rpms but the boat runs noticeably smoother and jumps right on plane. The engines seem to pull the whole time while rolling into the throttles. No more waiting for the boat to climb out of the water on plane and back down on rpms. Feels similar to driving a manual transmission car in 3rd gear in its power band. Apply throttle and feel it pull.
 
Hey Group thought I would post this here instead of mechanical as it’s a bit more boat specific. My guy came down yesterday and we changed fuel filters, Starboard engine oil/filter then started to change the Port engine oil and the filter just wouldn’t come off even using the screw driver through it method. It’s sitting with PB Blaster on it and my young guy is bringing more of his “tools” we’ll get it off. Reason for the post. Port engine is different and the filter is down on the block. So as not to go through this again, any recommendations on a remote kit? I’ve found the Mercruiser kit a few places but $400-$600. Seems like a bit much. As always thanks for the help. I bumped the “Engine Identification” thread today as well if you’re interested.
Jon
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
Hey Group thought I would post this here instead of mechanical as it’s a bit more boat specific. My guy came down yesterday and we changed fuel filters, Starboard engine oil/filter then started to change the Port engine oil and the filter just wouldn’t come off even using the screw driver through it method. It’s sitting with PB Blaster on it and my young guy is bringing more of his “tools” we’ll get it off. Reason for the post. Port engine is different and the filter is down on the block. So as not to go through this again, any recommendations on a remote kit? I’ve found the Mercruiser kit a few places but $400-$600. Seems like a bit much. As always thanks for the help. I bumped the “Engine Identification” thread today as well if you’re interested.
Jon
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  • Weird… my oil filters on my 5.0s are both on remote kit style mounts. Easy and right there in front so literally just reach into the engine bay and remove and replace…
 
Yep, my engines are for sure not original, Broker told me they had been replaced “around 2010” but no paperwork. Probably should have walked away from this boat but it’s fun for the lake riding we do and I got it cheap. More to follow.
Jon
 
Guys, new question..took the old girl for a spin, ran awesome but once i powered down and in neutral i had a solid alarm go off. I know its only either oil pressure, water temp or drive fluid that kicks the alarm but all were good. Shut her down and resrart and alarm is off. But when i tried to start port had to use the emergency jumper. So ran battery test and had 1 bad battery, decided to swap all 3 since they were 5 years old. Question is would a bad or dead battery throw an alarm?
 
Jeff Delbuono said:
Guys, new question..took the old girl for a spin, ran awesome but once i powered down and in neutral i had a solid alarm go off. I know its only either oil pressure, water temp or drive fluid that kicks the alarm but all were good. Shut her down and resrart and alarm is off. But when i tried to start port had to use the emergency jumper. So ran battery test and had 1 bad battery, decided to swap all 3 since they were 5 years old. Question is would a bad or dead battery throw an alarm?
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Any water in the bilge that might have tripped the high water pump?


Side note what kind/type of batteries did you end up going with?
 
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