Official 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 Thread

Hey so just a quick update, took the boat out Saturday with the Queen, grand parents, Twins 2A,2B. Didn’t strain anything ran between 2K and 2.5K rpms. 12-15mph per the GPS track. Stayed out about 2 hours. Oil pressure 50PSI both engines and Port engine 160, Starboard 165 temps. Same story yesterday except just the Queen and I. We ran almost the length of the lake and had a nice ride. Left at 11:30 back at the dock 2:30. A bit windy getting back in but pretty normal for here. It was nice to be out.
 
Anyone have comments good or bad on the NOCO Genius 10x3 battery charger? I’m wanting to get that little 2 bank charger replaced but you can’t find the ProNautic anywhere
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
Anyone have comments good or bad on the NOCO Genius 10x3 battery charger? I’m wanting to get that little 2 bank charger replaced but you can’t find the ProNautic anywhere
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is it ignition protected and rated for continuous DC output? I bought a different ProMariner not having done any research and had to return it because it had a 3 prong plug and was not rated for permanent bilge installation or continuous DC load
 
Strecker25 said:
is it ignition protected and rated for continuous DC output? I bought a different ProMariner not having done any research and had to return it because it had a 3 prong plug and was not rated for permanent bilge installation or continuous DC load
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That is a great question, I’ll have to look and see. The web site “says for boats” but maybe not for permanent installation. I will check it out and report back.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
That is a great question, I’ll have to look and see. The web site “says for boats” but maybe not for permanent installation. I will check it out and report back.
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So this is in the user manual, but it does have a 3 prong plug. Wonder if it can be removed and hardwired?

Ignition Protection. External connections to charger comply with the United States Coast Guard electrical regulations (33CFR183, SUB PART I). Non-igniting and temperature controlled for safe and worry-free operation.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
So this is in the user manual, but it does have a 3 prong plug. Wonder if it can be removed and hardwired?

Ignition Protection. External connections to charger comply with the United States Coast Guard electrical regulations (33CFR183, SUB PART I). Non-igniting and temperature controlled for safe and worry-free operation.
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I’m sure you can hardwire it no problem, I’d check with the MFG on the continuous load though. If you changed your bulbs to LED that would be the biggest constant DC draw while on shore power, most everything else big would be AC.
 
Strecker25 said:
I’m sure you can hardwire it no problem, I’d check with the MFG on the continuous load though. If you changed your bulbs to LED that would be the biggest constant DC draw while on shore power, most everything else big would be AC.
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We are in the process of changing over to LED’s but then at night everything off, Hmm, I have asked that question to the manufacturer, see what they come back with.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
So I’m getting ready to do mine for the simple fact no one can tell me when they were done. Looks pretty straight forward from a gear head point of view, I won’t have to contort my body too crazy. So. The reason for my post is all the marina mechanics I’ve talked to say that on the lake it’s a one and done. I think you saltwater guys are supposed to do them every 3-4 years. No?
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Yes, the duty cycle for saltwater is very short for manifolds. The life depends on many factors, but you start checking them at year 3. I observed that if you use the boat more, you get more life.
And yes, the duty cycle is so much better for freshwater, and some users get a staggering amount of years out of them. At $10k a piece for engines, you have to ask yourself what your comfort level is. If your local conditions are that optimal, you could get a gasket set and a set of bolts and crack one side open.
 
Tacoma290 said:
Yes, the duty cycle for saltwater is very short for manifolds. The life depends on many factors, but you start checking them at year 3. I observed that if you use the boat more, you get more life.
And yes, the duty cycle is so much better for freshwater, and some users get a staggering amount of years out of them. At $10k a piece for engines, you have to ask yourself what your comfort level is. If your local conditions are that optimal, you could get a gasket set and a set of bolts and crack one side open.
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Yep, that’s the plan. The mechanics at my marina aren’t taking any new clients but did say they would inspect my manifolds and risers if I took them off. I’m going to change them no matter what, starting with the Starboard engine. That’s where the VacuFlush system is and I know it needs rebuilt so with them (manifold and riser) out of the way should make it easier. Just eating the elephant one bite at a time.
 
Has anyone had to go around and tighten up their boat cleats?

I noticed a few of mine if you would give a good tug/twist they are a little loose.

How hard is it find access behind them to tighten?
 
Getaway said:
Have you tried to access the D-Ring on the bow? I'm suspecting a little leakage and it may need to be re-bedded however, I cannot get to an access point. Tried EVERYTHING and it seems to be behind a glassed in area forward of the v-birth.
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Behind V-berth mirror, bottom of anchor locker (sometimes this is where your anchor line or chain is also attached) or contact SeaRay customer service.
 
techmitch said:
Behind V-berth mirror, bottom of anchor locker (sometimes this is where your anchor line or chain is also attached) or contact SeaRay customer service.
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Yeah, had all of that apart already. Behind the mirror is a glassed wall. Anchor locker stops just short of the D-Ring. I don't feel like cutting any access holes. I may just drip some 5200 around the D-Ring and see if that stops the light seepage into the cabin floor storage compartment.
 
Hey Crew, updating the lights in the cabin, (now that they are all working), what are you folks using in the head and the large fluorescents in cabin?
Thanks Jon
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
Hey Crew, updating the lights in the cabin, (now that they are all working), what are you folks using in the head and the large fluorescents in cabin?
Thanks Jon
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Most if us will not have these.

I think the early and even the late 98's when they were changing over to the 99's had round lights (12v/110v) in the cabin. But I could be wrong.

Can you post up some interior pic's of your 99.
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
Hey Crew, updating the lights in the cabin, (now that they are all working), what are you folks using in the head and the large fluorescents in cabin?
Thanks Jon
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I used these for the little lights
And these for the big lights
Also needed these for the aft bedroom lights. Which also fit in the engine bay although they are not ignition protected. They do have a cover over the LEDs so I guess if the led pops it'll still be covered
 
Jeff Delbuono said:
And fyi , im 52 years old. 5 ft 9 in and 200 lbs and i was able to get to trim pump and replace all the solenoids. You need new techs that are not so lazy. Seriously it sucked but was done
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Good to hear, I think I need to replace my port drive UP solenoid. I believe it's stuck down, but gauge not working so hard to confirm exactly with the boat in the water. When I press the button up, it clicks. When I press down, I hear the motor whine, like it's already down. Makes me think it's the solenoid, just have to take the time to confirm and hopefully replace it. I can barely see it, buried near the transom, but you give me hope that I can get to it, with some sweat and cursing!
 
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