Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

[LClifton]

I like to take my Raymarine c80 out of my 07 340 and I just replace it with a complete wood grain plate
Does anyone know where I could find one of these ?
Or does anyone know of a good cheap ish c80 replacement
Currently using iPad Pro with navionics and it works great

I'm replacing my C80. After several re-boots / re-starts it has finally given up and is unreliable. The lake we're at I can use Navionics as well. I haven't been able to find a "cheapish" replacement however. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and go with Raymarine Axiom 7 or Garmin 7 series. Around 500 plus (in most cases) the transducer cost. There is a place that will re-word the C80 and give a one year guarantee for $349. I'm still considering that option.

 

[Matt1261]

Im sure there are plenty on this thread that had to have their dripless shaft seals replaced. Well beyond my capabilities and will be having this done. What is the approximate cost to have the seals replaced in total? Mind you the boat has already been hauled and is stored at my house so the cost to haul and store are not included.

 

[Tacoma290]

Im sure there are plenty on this thread that had to have their dripless shaft seals replaced. Well beyond my capabilities and will be having this done. What is the approximate cost to have the seals replaced in total? Mind you the boat has already been hauled and is stored at my house so the cost to haul and store are not included.

There are a number of variables at play...

In theory, your boat should have a spare seal on each shaft, ready to go. It would be a few hundred per side to cover labor (not easy to work down there, let alone get a screwdriver bit where it can pull the face cap).

Sometimes life does not follow theory, and the spare is not there, or there is not enough room to get at the screws, or the spare has dried out after sitting there for more than a decade. Then the shaft would have to be moved. In order to do that, the shaft coupling would have to be removed, or the prop pulled, or both to get enough room. I know; One of my original couplings took an embarrassingly long time to get pulled. So you can see that the work involved leaves the few hundred dollars arena and enters the few thousands arena. Could be $3k per side.

My suggestion would be to get a few photos and post here, and we should be able to bracket to what is really involved. The spare is in a black ring/disk that is on the shaft in front of the shaft seal (kind of hides in the back of the transmission). Even if you don't do the work yourself, understanding what needs to happen makes you a better owner and a better client for the person doing the work.

Why are you replacing the shaft seal?

 

[Matt1261]

There are a number of variables at play...

In theory, your boat should have a spare seal on each shaft, ready to go. It would be a few hundred per side to cover labor (not easy to work down there, let alone get a screwdriver bit where it can pull the face cap).

Sometimes life does not follow theory, and the spare is not there, or there is not enough room to get at the screws, or the spare has dried out after sitting there for more than a decade. Then the shaft would have to be moved. In order to do that, the shaft coupling would have to be removed, or the prop pulled, or both to get enough room. I know; One of my original couplings took an embarrassingly long time to get pulled. So you can see that the work involved leaves the few hundred dollars arena and enters the few thousands arena. Could be $3k per side.

My suggestion would be to get a few photos and post here, and we should be able to bracket to what is really involved. The spare is in a black ring/disk that is on the shaft in front of the shaft seal (kind of hides in the back of the transmission). Even if you don't do the work yourself, understanding what needs to happen makes you a better owner and a better client for the person doing the work.

Why are you replacing the shaft seal?

Thanks for the reply! I am replacing the seals because prior to purchase i had a survey complete on the boat with the port seal being in need of replacement as there was always an amount of water inside under that transmission after use. I looked for the spare seals and could not find them. With a young family I want to make sure this boat is in top shape for a full season next year. Im rather meticulous and handy but im 6’3 and just dont fit into some of these areas lol. I spoke with an area mechanic who quoted me at 2500-3000 total to pull the shafts and replace the seals. It also helps that ill be changing out the manifolds over the winter and that will buy some valuable space for sure. The starboard coupler needs replacement as well.

 

[techmitch]

View attachment 93860 View attachment 93859

Thanks for the reply! I am replacing the seals because prior to purchase i had a survey complete on the boat with the port seal being in need of replacement as there was always an amount of water inside under that transmission after use. I looked for the spare seals and could not find them. With a young family I want to make sure this boat is in top shape for a full season next year. Im rather meticulous and handy but im 6’3 and just dont fit into some of these areas lol. I spoke with an area mechanic who quoted me at 2500-3000 total to pull the shafts and replace the seals. It also helps that ill be changing out the manifolds over the winter and that will buy some valuable space for sure. The starboard coupler needs replacement as well.

View attachment 93858

I think I see the spare seal/seal carrier in the 2nd pic to the far left.

 

[Tacoma290]

Matt1261: As is normal, Mitch is right on! The spare is right there. You could use it, but based on the price, your mechanic is doing more than that, and it is the right approach. A couple of things from the pictures:

• That black cable tie that wraps around the shaft seal needs to be cut and moved. That adds stress to the side of the shaft seal, and if the seal vibrates, it induces movement and wears on the hose. Neither of those are good things.
• Looks like the shaft may have leaked for a while based on the amount of rust on the coupling. That coupling will take some effort to remove.
• The mechanic will be hopefully spending some time to clean up the mounting flange of the transmission (that the coupling is attached to). The flange can be ground smooth and hopefully touched up with paint. Might want to ask about that work and verify it is included.
• Once the work is done, you should consider spraying a rust inhibitor as a preventative measure during your normal maintenance checks (lots of guys around here like Boeshield T-9; I like H&M CB12 Corrosion Block).

This winter is a great opportunity to check over all the drive train components. I anticipate that many things were looked at during the survey, but surveys can't catch everything (and some surveyors seem to have a troublingly good relationship with sales brokers...). Double check the cutlass (is there play as you move the shaft from side to side?). Check the struts to be sure they aren't bent. And double check to be sure both prop shafts can rotate by hand (there is usually some initial resistance, but it should rotate with one hand). The only other thing you could think about is having your mechanic check the alignment of the engines/transmissions to the shaft.

Good on you for dealing with the manifolds. I'll be doing mine in the next few weeks too!

 

[dagerringer]

Matt1261: As is normal, Mitch is right on! The spare is right there. You could use it, but based on the price, your mechanic is doing more than that, and it is the right approach. A couple of things from the pictures:

• That black cable tie that wraps around the shaft seal needs to be cut and moved. That adds stress to the side of the shaft seal, and if the seal vibrates, it induces movement and wears on the hose. Neither of those are good things.
• Looks like the shaft may have leaked for a while based on the amount of rust on the coupling. That coupling will take some effort to remove.
• The mechanic will be hopefully spending some time to clean up the mounting flange of the transmission (that the coupling is attached to). The flange can be ground smooth and hopefully touched up with paint. Might want to ask about that work and verify it is included.
• Once the work is done, you should consider spraying a rust inhibitor as a preventative measure during your normal maintenance checks (lots of guys around here like Boeshield T-9; I like H&M CB12 Corrosion Block).

This winter is a great opportunity to check over all the drive train components. I anticipate that many things were looked at during the survey, but surveys can't catch everything (and some surveyors seem to have a troublingly good relationship with sales brokers...). Double check the cutlass (is there play as you move the shaft from side to side?). Check the struts to be sure they aren't bent. And double check to be sure both prop shafts can rotate by hand (there is usually some initial resistance, but it should rotate with one hand). The only other thing you could think about is having your mechanic check the alignment of the engines/transmissions to the shaft.

Good on you for dealing with the manifolds. I'll be doing mine in the next few weeks too!

I had my shaft seals done this past summer. My spares had already been used and as it turned out, it was a good thing. My mechanic found that my SB engine was slightly out of alignment due to a seated motor mount. This was noticed in the play in the shaft at the cutlass. With the price quoted, it is in line with what I paid that included both cutlass bearings being replaced. Then I had haul out fees on top and my total came in around $4,500 because I had to have special shaft seals ordered that were an inch longer than standard due to wear on the shaft, to guarantee a good seal.

 

[Matt1261]

Thank you all for the quick replies and insight!

 

[TheBobC]

Path to cable run to floor compartment?

Looking to install new Raymarine autopilot and want to put the EV1 core down where the fluxgate is on the old one. This is the compartment where the shower sump is. Anyone know an easy way to run the nmea2000 cable to there?

 

[Korkie]

Path to cable run to floor compartment?

Looking to install new Raymarine autopilot and want to put the EV1 core down where the fluxgate is on the old one. This is the compartment where the shower sump is. Anyone know an easy way to run the nmea2000 cable to there?

I put mine in the "secret" space behind the backrest just to the right of the electrical cabinet. Works great and easy cable run.

 

[TheBobC]

I put mine in the "secret" space behind the backrest just to the right of the electrical cabinet. Works great and easy cable run.

How do I access that secret space?

 

[Korkie]

In the mid berth on the starboard side take the seat back cushions out. The seatback will then fold down to reveal a large storage area.

 

[TheBobC]

Thanks for the advice on evo placement.

Now I am trying hard to find one of the wires for the Accessory dash switches. I have searched everywhere under the dash and behind the speaker beside the helm. No joy. Can anybody help out?

 

[liv2ryde100]

Thanks for the advice on evo placement.

Now I am trying hard to find one of the wires for the Accessory dash switches. I have searched everywhere under the dash and behind the speaker beside the helm. No joy. Can anybody help out?

There’s no wire u have to go in the eim thingy. Look in your manual for the schematic and you’ll find a wire in there

 

[TheBobC]

Ok...does that mean I need to open the push button breaker panel under the helm kick panel? Is that the "elm thingey"?

 

[liv2ryde100]

Ok...does that mean I need to open the push button breaker panel under the helm kick panel? Is that the "elm thingey"?

Yes that’s it, look in your schematic to see which wire is for the accessory. Someone on here may be able to tell u but I don’t know off top of my head

 

[trukschroeder]

Thanks for the advice on evo placement.

Now I am trying hard to find one of the wires for the Accessory dash switches. I have searched everywhere under the dash and behind the speaker beside the helm. No joy. Can anybody help out?

I'm not 100% sure but under the helm there is a fuse block. I believe that the radar and gps/nav equipment is fed from the two left dash acc switches via this fuse block. Possibly the unused right side switch circuits can be found there as well.

 

[Korkie]

TheBobC - Under your dash the EIM will have a large wire harness coming out of the right side. (same in the one on the bulkhead in the engine room). Out of that hunk of wires there should be 2 wires coming out that are not attached to anything. I am not sure what the wire numbers were. I currently have all 4 of mine operating 4 different things. Now I did find out that some of the wiring (at least on our boat) did not match up to the schematics. You will need to fine the wires and put a test light on them as you turn the various switches on/off to see if you have one of them. Also, there is the switch on the stbd switch panel that has a rectangular box with a squiggly line going through it. That is an un used switch on the 340s. It is actually for powering up the fresh water system (on other smaller boats). I found that this switch was also usable for powering up something. I have it powering my autopilot. With that, I currently am using 5 switched out of the EIMs to power various things. The wires are there, (unless a PO cut them off or something) it took me a weekend to search them out and find them. It is best to start with the manual (schematics) and find each switch and trace them to the EIM. This will give you the wire colors and numbers to look for.

 

[TheBobC]

Thank you Korkie. Most helpful. I will dig again.

 

[Korkie]

Thank you Korkie. Most helpful. I will dig again.

If i get some time today i will hunt down the wire colors and numbers for you. There is a thread I was part of on here somewhere that has that info if you want to try n do a search.