Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

KevinC said:
I think if you review the task you will find much easier to just buy a switch and replace it.

-Kevin
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Agreed, for $15 and 15 mins of your time it was easier to buy the switch. I believe the part # is VLD1A60B
 
Update for anyone paying attention to my ignition issue. It was the 90 amp in-line fuse on the starter motor. Must have blown when I arced the alternator. It also accounted for the elevated charging since the alternator couldn’t sense the battery
 
Anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement of the galley faucet?
5FBAA5D2-F176-4715-8D68-A507B14F3A32.jpeg
 
Misterhelms said:
Anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement of the galley faucet? View attachment 103429
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Just take it to a lowes/depot or a high end kitchen and bath supply if you like and find a better replacement. Or... completely disassemble, clean, inspect and replace both cartridge's and the aerator also, as the one that's on there doesn't look stock.
 
outobie said:
Update for anyone paying attention to my ignition issue. It was the 90 amp in-line fuse on the starter motor. Must have blown when I arced the alternator. It also accounted for the elevated charging since the alternator couldn’t sense the battery
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Lol even though I suggested this I still can’t believe it, how could the parallel switch bypass the fuse on the starter?
 
liv2ryde100 said:
Lol even though I suggested this I still can’t believe it, how could the parallel switch bypass the fuse on the starter?
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The battery and the yellow/red starter wire connect directly to the starter solenoid. The 90 amp in-line fuse isolates the alternator and main power to the helm/ignition.
 
Fly4Kix said:
Agreed, for $15 and 15 mins of your time it was easier to buy the switch. I believe the part # is VLD1A60B
Click to expand...

IIRC, the factory switch was a VLDA but as you noted the VLD1 can and will be substituted many times. The difference was the "A" had plastic separation blades at the terminal connections. Each of these has many variants denoted by the numbers and letters that follow the base part. In short the VLDA or VLD1 should work for this just make sure you select the proper illumination as the base model is not illuminated.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
IIRC, the factory switch was a VLDA but as you noted the VLD1 can and will be substituted many times. The difference was the "A" had plastic separation blades at the terminal connections. Each of these has many variants denoted by the numbers and letters that follow the base part. In short the VLDA or VLD1 should work for this just make sure you select the proper illumination as the base model is not illuminated.

-Kevin
Click to expand...
Kevin do u sell these direct replacements?
 
TheBobC said:
Hello all. I have a generator issue I could use some help on. Kohler 5e. It will start and run fine form the bilge switch. I can shut it down from the cabin panel switch, but it will not turn over or start from there. When I first got the boat 4 years ago, I would have to push the switch several times to get it to work. Now, no amount of pushing works. Is it likely the momentary switch? The off/on switch? The harness connector (wherever that is)? Anyone have any thoughts?
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could be any of those...need to get in there and start testing with a meter to see where the issue is. I'd start with the switch on the remote panel. Ohm it out and make sure it works as it should. make sure it gets power in, then make sure it gets send's power out. if that checks out then go into the engine compartment and see if your getting the signal there
 
Still looking for 320/340 in the 2002-07 range if anyone is knows anyone thinking about selling, Great Lakes area...
 
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