Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

I've got a fridge under the sink in the cockpit of my 06 340. For some reason the door swings opposite to the door covering the compartment. Is there a way to change the direction the fridge door swings like on a residential fridge?
 
estoltz said:
I've got a fridge under the sink in the cockpit of my 06 340. For some reason the door swings opposite to the door covering the compartment. Is there a way to change the direction the fridge door swings like on a residential fridge?
Click to expand...

I switched mine around. All of the hardware is there. You will need to pull the fridge out a bit to get to some of the bracket screws. When I get a chance, I want to switch the cabin fridge too.
 
Anyone know how many gallons of antifreeze are needed for winterizing each engine? If you winterize yours how much do you run thru each engine? 5-6 gallons?
 
villain style said:
Anyone know how many gallons of antifreeze are needed for winterizing each engine? If you winterize yours how much do you run thru each engine? 5-6 gallons?
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One gallon.

Seriously. Read the winterizing process, you drain the exhaust side, remove the plugs and bump the starter over...done. I personally run one gallon of -100 through the strainer after draining the system to ensure the water pump and transmission cooler are clear, and then drain the anti-freeze, leaving the plugs out for the winter. Easy Peaze.

Don't forget to drain the mufflers too, by removing the drain plug in the side. These engines are about the easiest engines to winterize there is. It literally takes five minutes, of which 3 of them is spent running the engines on a remote tank to fog them.
 
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villain style said:
Thanks Scott! I'll review manual. If you're able to, and its not too much trouble, have some video your process. Would love to learn from it.
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I am hauling the boat tomorrow, if I can, I'll video the pertinent parts.
 
saopm said:
I switched mine around. All of the hardware is there. You will need to pull the fridge out a bit to get to some of the bracket screws. When I get a chance, I want to switch the cabin fridge too.
Click to expand...

Any tips/tricks for switching the cockpit fridge door for opening same direction of cover door ?
 
melida said:
Any tips/tricks for switching the cockpit fridge door for opening same direction of cover door ?
Click to expand...

Its been a few months but over all a straight forward job. Once you get the door off you will need to transfer the hardware on the left corners to the right and vice versa. I believe the brackets might need to be swapped as well. Take a few pictures before you start and you should be fine. Also, be careful not to lose any of the parts, spring, and screws out the back of the boat. This also makes it a little easer to catch all of the bottles that fall out as you open the door after a ride.
 
saopm said:
Its been a few months but over all a straight forward job. Once you get the door off you will need to transfer the hardware on the left corners to the right and vice versa. I believe the brackets might need to be swapped as well. Take a few pictures before you start and you should be fine. Also, be careful not to lose any of the parts, spring, and screws out the back of the boat. This also makes it a little easer to catch all of the bottles that fall out as you open the door after a ride.
Click to expand...

Great thanks Tim, gonna try them.
 
saopm said:
Its been a few months but over all a straight forward job. Once you get the door off you will need to transfer the hardware on the left corners to the right and vice versa. I believe the brackets might need to be swapped as well. Take a few pictures before you start and you should be fine. Also, be careful not to lose any of the parts, spring, and screws out the back of the boat. This also makes it a little easer to catch all of the bottles that fall out as you open the door after a ride.
Click to expand...
What's the secret to getting the fridge out far enough to access the brackets?
 
villain style said:
Thanks Scott! I'll review manual. If you're able to, and its not too much trouble, have some video your process. Would love to learn from it.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, the marina really pinched me on time and I didn't have a chance to video the process. Here's the steps:

-Fog the engines (I run remote tanks with a mixture of 2 cycle oil and stabilizer)
-drain the exhaust side with the air system, or removing the drain plugs. There are two on the sea water pump, (left side as you face the front) and one on the lower right corner. If you have the older generation of cool fuel, there is also a drain plug there as well. My boat does not have this, so there are a total of 3 plugs to remove on the engine.
-drain the mufflers and sea strainers by removing the plugs.
-bump the starter over to clear the water pump

According to Mercury, you are done. (If you cleared the engine with the air system, and don't plan on using anti-freeze, I personally remove the drain plugs rather than trust the air system.)

-Re-install the plugs in the engine, and sea strainers. Close the seacock and fill the strainers with anti-freeze. (I use -100) Using a flush device (pictured below is what I use) run one gallon through each of the engines.

-Your choice, leave the anti-freeze in, or drain it by removing the plugs. Personally I remove the plugs again, and make a mess in the bilge....I can't give a good reason for this, I think in the beginning I drained it to make sure the anti-freeze went where it was supposed to go, and it just stuck with me.

-Don't forget to reopen the seacocks.

View attachment 46601

This device is called Sea Flush btw. http://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/boat/sea-flush
 
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sfergson727 said:
One gallon.

Seriously. Read the winterizing process, you drain the exhaust side, remove the plugs and bump the starter over...done. I personally run one gallon of -100 through the strainer after draining the system to ensure the water pump and transmission cooler are clear, and then drain the anti-freeze, leaving the plugs out for the winter. Easy Peaze.

Don't forget to drain the mufflers too, by removing the drain plug in the side. These engines are about the easiest engines to winterize there is. It literally takes five minutes, of which 3 of them is spent running the engines on a remote tank to fog them.
Click to expand...

Can you provide some details of how you fog your engines?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
fdough1 said:
Can you provide some details of how you fog your engines?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have two remote tanks, which I hook up to the fuel inlet at the fuel cooler. The mixture is 5 gallons of gas, 2 quarts of 2 cycle oil and 5 ounce of fuel stabilizer. (I put 2.5 gallons of fuel, 1 quart and the stabilizer in each tank)

Run it through the engines at 1300 RPM for 5 minutes.

If you have the older canister type of fuel filter, you could just remove it, and put the mixture in the filter and run it. Mine uses the cartridge filters (Gen IV) so I have to do with a remote tank. Yours is the same as mine, so a remote tank will be necessary.

In this thread there are some pictures of the remote tank setup I made.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/24633-Fogging-350-MAG-With-Cool-Fuel-Water-Seperator
 
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sfergson727 said:
I have two remote tanks, which I hook up to the fuel inlet at the fuel cooler. The mixture is 5 gallons of gas, 2 quarts of 2 cycle oil and 5 ounce of fuel stabilizer. (I put 2.5 gallons of fuel, 1 quart and the stabilizer in each tank)

Run it through the engines at 1300 RPM for 5 minutes.

If you have the older canister type of fuel filter, you could just remove it, and put the mixture in the filter and run it. Mine uses the cartridge filters (Gen IV) so I have to do with a remote tank. Yours is the same as mine, so a remote tank will be necessary.

In this thread there are some pictures of the remote tank setup I made.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/24633-Fogging-350-MAG-With-Cool-Fuel-Water-Seperator
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Want to descale the cockpit (wetbar) faucet but it doesn't seem have a removable tip like the galley faucet.
Any tricks to do it instead of tearing apart whole faucet and hoses etc ?
TIA.
 
melida said:
Want to descale the cockpit (wetbar) faucet but it doesn't seem have a removable tip like the galley faucet.
Any tricks to do it instead of tearing apart whole faucet and hoses etc ?
TIA.
Click to expand...

Use the fresh water pump to run CLR through the system. Make sure you close the valve leading to the hot water tank, or you'll send it all there, and it would probably be a good move to dilute it somewhat. You can take a section of hose with a fitting to attach to the inlet of the freshwater pump very easily.
 
sfergson727 said:
Use the fresh water pump to run CLR through the system. Make sure you close the valve leading to the hot water tank, or you'll send it all there, and it would probably be a good move to dilute it somewhat. You can take a section of hose with a fitting to attach to the inlet of the freshwater pump very easily.
Click to expand...

Thanks Scott, great tip.
 
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