Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Ok, that is what I wanted to know. To clarify, i would never use the trailer button to trim when running. And I did go into some shallow water, but only trimmed with the trim buttons, as if i needed more I shouldn't be in there. I'm prepping it now for season, so i had to move the drives up to get to the zincs, exhaust bellows, clean, paint, etc., and taking time to understand how everything specifically works. I bought the boat through a broker, and after sea trail and paperwork I was handed the keys. So I lacked someone knowing the boat and being able to go over stuff with me. Now I have the opportunity to look at everything and how it works, which gives a much needed comfort level. And, when I used the trailer button today to get at the bellows it would not raise up one side, one side all the way down, the other at the up most trim position. The one trimmed up raised using the trailer button, the other stayed in place. This is what got to looking closer as to how it works. The trim buttons do not always work. I turned the switches on, played with trim button and it started to move. I could then raise with trailer button. I cant figure out a pattern as to when they work, and do not. Something is not right.
 
If you have to cheat with the tilting up, just do as Henry said and keep the RPM's low.

By far, the most common reason for trim/tilt being flaky are the solenoids at the trim motor. You can bypass them to check. Lot's of info out there if you google. Replacement is pretty straight forward if you're comfortable with electrical. Access is a little tight - remove the screws securing the bracket to the deck to get a little more wiggle room.
 
ok, I'll look at this. I recall seeing a discussion on the solenoids, so will do some reading. Thanks!
 
I see that access to the solenoids is in fact tight, not even sure how to reach the starboard one, as its back in the corner of the hull. Regardless, I'll figure it out. Does anyone know the replacement part numbers for the solenoids? I am tired of guessing at what I need for this boat, as its always wrong, hence the name I post under.
 
Seldom Right said:
I see that access to the solenoids is in fact tight, not even sure how to reach the starboard one, as its back in the corner of the hull. Regardless, I'll figure it out. Does anyone know the replacement part numbers for the solenoids? I am tired of guessing at what I need for this boat, as its always wrong, hence the name I post under.
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Actually, on this one you can guess! What I mean is, the solenoids used have been the same for many, many years and all Mercruiser trim pumps will be the same regardless of Alpha/Bravo or boat brand. They're about $20 each - replace both thu Up & Down solenoids while you're there. FYI, there is no "up" or "down" solenoid - the same one is used in both positions. If you have a local shop that's open, they probably have them in stock. Otherwise, just google for Mercruiser trim pump solenoid. In all the years I've been doing this, I can't ever remember looking for a part number for these!
 
Ok, great info, I order replacements from that marine store out west....
 
Seldom Right said:
Ok, great info, I order replacements from that marine store out west....
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Seldom,
I just replaced all four of my solenoids last month. I had both engines out, so I took advantage of the access.
See the picture of the four OEM solenoids I ordered. Given the access is so tough, I wasn’t going to risk buying some crappy aftermarket relay. These fit perfect.

Special note: the port trim pump hot line is direct wired to the battery on my boat. On the wiring diagram, Sea Ray allowed that configuration. Make sure you disconnect your hots going to your trim pumps before starting. Check at the pump with a volt meter.
 

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Hi there. Long time lurker, first time poster. I cannot for the life of me find a fuse block for this boat. I'm seeing both EIMs. Not seeing anything under the helm. Do I have to unscrew any panels?
 
Bottomrock said:
Hi there. Long time lurker, first time poster. I cannot for the life of me find a fuse block for this boat. I'm seeing both EIMs. Not seeing anything under the helm. Do I have to unscrew any panels?
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The EIM has push button circuit breakers. The switches on the master electrical panel are also breakers, and there are breakers on the panel where the battery switches are located. Although in twelve years of owning a 280 the breakers in the switch box never tripped.
 
Hi DWABoat,

Thanks, I will check for power.
 
Finally got a chance to buff out the hull. She looks like brand new, could not be happier. Before.
IMG_8487.JPG
 
Regarding the tambor door tracks, I had mentioned that one side was broken. These guys carry the exact replacement.
IMG_8439.JPG
Woodworkers hardware, WWhardware.com
 
Hey all,
I finally finished hooking up my new water heater and one of the old 90 degree elbows is leaking. It’s a black plastic quick disconnect. Has anyone found where to source these? I tried a shark bite fitting but it was not the correct size. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Josh
 
Josh28161 said:
Hey all,
I finally finished hooking up my new water heater and one of the old 90 degree elbows is leaking. It’s a black plastic quick disconnect. Has anyone found where to source these? I tried a shark bite fitting but it was not the correct size. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Josh
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Freshwatersystems.com. I believe the brand should be SeaTeq. You should have 15mm tubing with grey fittings. Do you have grey fittings elsewhere? Either way measure the tubing as 15mm and ½" look the same.

Oh yeah, if you don't post pictures, it didn't happen.
 
Hey Henry good point. I’m attaching a photo of one of the factory fittings. Boat is an 05.
53ACA2A9-59CA-4E9F-89AD-B63D676EADA3.png
 
Josh,

I was wrong, the black fittings are 15mm.

These can leak because:
the tube is not cut square,
The tube is not seated all the way,
The seal is worn or missing,


The grey fittings on our new boat Are ½”, my bad.
 
Josh28161 said:
Hey all,
I finally finished hooking up my new water heater and one of the old 90 degree elbows is leaking. It’s a black plastic quick disconnect. Has anyone found where to source these? I tried a shark bite fitting but it was not the correct size. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Josh
Click to expand...
Try inserting it further - you may not have pushed it in enough. Maybe pull it out and push it in again. With it out, you can get an idea of how far it should go in by looking at the fitting - make a mark equal to that on the tubing.

Like Henry said, that should be a 15mm tube. Some boats had 15mm, others had 1/2" - depends on the plant it was built in and even sometimes when during the year it was made.
 
Thanks guys. Henry thanks for the link. Looks like the rubber o-ring is failing in the fitting. Tried some plumbers silicone but that didn’t help.
 
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