Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Barneyridge.....you said you ordered new manifolds and risers. Was there a sign or mitigating factor.for deciding to.replace.them? And if so what were they ? What signs (operating or visual ) should I be looking for ? I was going to replace mine but my father in law insist they look fine. I should add that I was having quite a.bit of white smoke?, white steam? Not sure which, when I.was under way. The more wot I was the.more pronounced it was. Engine never ran hot. And never skipped.a.beat. but my starboard motor would not give any more after about 3400 rpm and port motor would.just wanna.give more and more. Starboard ran rich I believe. I have much trouble shooting to do before.we launch week of April 15.

HTC EVO 3D
 
Hi mate, I have not bough any yet, just researching. I am considering the option of the one piece stainless steel vs cast iron manifolds. When I got a survey on the boat the guy said the exhaust were good, but going through the service history they are getting on. They look good, no leaking, engines are running at correct temps, no steam etc

i am looking at buying the parts now, for later this year replacement. I was just trying to spread the cost of parts and labor. Whilst they look good, it is more peace of mind and preventive maintenance.

I am sure there are more knowledgable people on here that can provide better advice than me :)

http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/swbtob.asp

That link may give you a bit more info with the whole riser and manifold system
 
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The boat had 2 new long blocks installed back in 2001. The boat appears to be well cared for. The engines are the standard 5.7's and there is a dink on the swim platform. I suspect the engines need to work very hard to move the boat.
 
HTC EVO 3D
Barneyridge, thanks for the link. It was exactly what I was looking for. It was very informative. I think I will be at least taking a hard look at my risers. My manifolds ate pretty well protected as they are not raw water cooled. I have the closed cooling loop, using marine grade coolant. ( fresh water conversion kit as others may call it.)
 
Fruition said:
HTC EVO 3D
Barneyridge, thanks for the link. It was exactly what I was looking for. It was very informative. I think I will be at least taking a hard look at my risers. My manifolds ate pretty well protected as they are not raw water cooled. I have the closed cooling loop, using marine grade coolant. ( fresh water conversion kit as others may call it.)
Click to expand...

Just make sure to check the mating surfaces between the manifolds and risers. Even on fresh water cooled exhausts, this is the frequent area of breakdown.
 
Hi there,
I'm looking at moving up to a 330. Currently have a 240. Big move but I want to make only one jump before I retire. I'd like to hear about 330s with Bravo 3s. Any one have one?
 
b1uvmx22 said:
Hi there,
I'm looking at moving up to a 330. Currently have a 240. Big move but I want to make only one jump before I retire. I'd like to hear about 330s with Bravo 3s. Any one have one?]
b1uvmx22- I owned one of the rare 330's with BIII outdrives and 454's. I put over 800 hrs on that boat and was absolutely amazed with the performance and comfort. I only sold the boat and upgraded because the new admiral has 2 girls and we needed "privacy" more than a thin curtain between us and the girls. ;)

The boat handled like a Ferrari! Speed was 47mph wot.
You will love it!
Click to expand...
 
I have a 94 model 330DA with 454's and Volvo Duoprop out drives.

It flys. Handling is good, though at times I would like a bow thruster, I steer it with the drives around the dock and it handles well, except with a strong wind then you have to fight the bow.

Fuel economy is good.

There is miles of room in the engine bay, the extra saloon area space is great.

I have stainless props on, so the anodes give way around the 5-6 month mark. Though investigating last week we found the PO had not wired the anode protector correctly, so will see how long this next set goes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Carpedmman said:
b1uvmx22 said:
Hi there,
I'm looking at moving up to a 330. Currently have a 240. Big move but I want to make only one jump before I retire. I'd like to hear about 330s with Bravo 3s. Any one have one?]
b1uvmx22- I owned one of the rare 330's with BIII outdrives and 454's. I put over 800 hrs on that boat and was absolutely amazed with the performance and comfort. I only sold the boat and upgraded because the new admiral has 2 girls and we needed "privacy" more than a thin curtain between us and the girls. ;)

The boat handled like a Ferrari! Speed was 47mph wot.
You will love it!
Click to expand...

What year was the boat you had? Having trouble finding which years came with B3's.
Click to expand...
 
b1uvmx22 said:
Carpedmman said:
What year was the boat you had? Having trouble finding which years came with B3's.
Click to expand...

I owned a 1997,but know for sure that they were sold in '94-2000. I owned my boat in Wisconsin near where Mercury Marine has their Headquarters. The lake there is 25mile long 8 miles wide and only 20' deep at the deepest point. Outdrives are a must to get near the shores.
Click to expand...
 
Could anyone pleeeze give me some main points I should be aware of when installing a new stereo on my 330 da...1993. Is it much different than wiring a car or is it very specific to a boat. My original is located down in cabin recessed in a cabinet with accordion sliding doors. I think I would like to relocate it to the helm. Wiring seems to be tucked way behind all cabinets above dinette. Not sure how to even get to them. Seems very complicated to get to them. Do I just run new wire to New speakers ? Do I run power from New stereo straight to battery ? Help...lol ! I'm just not electrical savvy. Seemed so simple when u.were young foolish and brave.with the cars.

HTC EVO 3D
 
Moving the location of the radio will be a big job! Last summer I had replaced the old clarion unit for a much newer one from my Brother-in-laws 280. The new radio required a new control panel for the helm which had to be wired in with the supplied cable. From memory the radio faceplate (trim piece the radio was mounted too) needed to be removed, behind the radio the material was **** to run the wire. The panels in the aft closet needed to be removed as well as the trim in the aft-cabin to gain access to the underside of the helm. Also the subwoofer next to the helm had to be removed to help feed the wire up to the helm. The gauge cluster which also had to be removed for the use of a “snake“ to pull the wire up. I have pics if you are interested, send me a PM. Took me about 2 days, probably go much quicker having done the job already.
 
I agree with the above comments about changing locations of the stereo. Add to that the moisture factor outside of the cabin and the longevity of your stereo may be affected. I would leave the unit in the cabin , as I am doing with my upgrade, and add a new cockpit wired remote. In addition I am adding a blu tooth adapter & an RF remote for access ability from the dock etc. This may be a better option for you too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
tdschafer said:
I agree with the above comments about changing locations of the stereo. Add to that the moisture factor outside of the cabin and the longevity of your stereo may be affected. I would leave the unit in the cabin , as I am doing with my upgrade, and add a new cockpit wired remote. In addition I am adding a blu tooth adapter & an RF remote for access ability from the dock etc. This may be a better option for you too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Instead of wiring a new remote try this. http://www.rocktheboataudio.com/html/51826.html this is a universal remote that will attach to almost any radio. you hook up a ir transmitter piece to the stereo faceplate. The remote is RF based so no need to use line of site, it is water proof and floats
I used this when changing my radio last year. Never had a problem
 
Larry,

That looks pretty cool but I already bought the new remote and wanted the ID3 tag in the cockpit so I can see whats playing. I did buy a Clarion IR remote and a wired remote splitter to splice it in on the back end of the unit. Thanks for the link though, it is a nice add-on at a good price!
 
Does anyone know of a reputable site to get a free download for my motor. I have 1993 merc 7.4l inboards.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Just purchased my first cruiser, 330 Sundancer. So far not to bad, my wife loves it. I still wishing I had my fountain.
 
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