Official 370 Express Cruiser Thread (1997-2000)

[GnrlPatton]

Hey guys, wondering if any of you swapped out the control remote for the stereo at the helm. I see new models are 3 wire (power / ground / 3.5mm ) just wondering if anyone had any first hand experience.

Cheers!

I had every intention to swap mine out, but I couldn't get the wires run from the galley up to the helm. I didn't want to try to pull them through using the existing wires in case I failed and was left with the empty hole where the remote used to be, so I just left it. I added the wireless remote to my system and just carry that on a lanyard whenever I have the stereo on and am up above.

 

[Shooter_x]

I had every intention to swap mine out, but I couldn't get the wires run from the galley up to the helm. I didn't want to try to pull them through using the existing wires in case I failed and was left with the empty hole where the remote used to be, so I just left it. I added the wireless remote to my system and just carry that on a lanyard whenever I have the stereo on and am up above.

I was afraid I’d run into that. Do you remember what the wires were? Was it a bundle, rca jack with +/- ? I was initially wondering if I could reuse existing wires

 

[GnrlPatton]

I was afraid I’d run into that. Do you remember what the wires were? Was it a bundle, rca jack with +/- ? I was initially wondering if I could reuse existing wires

I'm pretty sure that it was a special plug, with one bundled cord. It wasn't compatible with the new wired remotes.

 

[Shooter_x]

I'm pretty sure that it was a special plug, with one bundled cord. It wasn't compatible with the new wired remotes.

I was half expecting that. thanks for the insight! I'll investigate further when it warms up and spring prep starts. I've got servicing the aftercoolers on my list too... so spring should be fun.

 

[West32]

Does anyone have a good electrical Schematic for the 12 volt DC systems? I'm having an issue with my Bilge lights. There is a Switch in back and one on the Dash. Just curious how Sea Ray originally had that circuit designed.
Please let me know
Thanks

 

[gerrpicc]

Does anyone have a good electrical Schematic for the 12 volt DC systems? I'm having an issue with my Bilge lights. There is a Switch in back and one on the Dash. Just curious how Sea Ray originally had that circuit designed.
Please let me know
Thanks

From Page 12.41 of the 370 EC Owner's Manual Supplement:

 

[West32]

Thanks. Unfortunately I have the same page. Doesn't show both switches.

 

[gerrpicc]

Thanks. Unfortunately I have the same page. Doesn't show both switches.

I uploaded a second pic. Not sure if it helps more. Wonder why they're upside down in the manual?

 

[Chicago Sea Ray]

Hey guys, wondering if any of you swapped out the control remote for the stereo at the helm. I see new models are 3 wire (power / ground / 3.5mm ) just wondering if anyone had any first hand experience.

Cheers!

I was able to run a new wire through the headliner to the helm. It wasn't hard... just a little tedious.

 

[Shooter_x]

I was able to run a new wire through the headliner to the helm. It wasn't hard... just a little tedious.

Right on, thats what I was imagining. With all the COVID stuff, boating is shut down in MD. I've been busier than I'd like between work and National Guard activation... so I'm thinking about spring prep in my hour nap between jobs. Fun times! Hope everyone here is staying safe.

 

[Shooter_x]

Getting caught up on spring maintenance and I wound up needing to reseal my forward most deck hatch. I would imagine if you haven't your boats are going to be coming due soon. There seal itself was an adhesive tape, with silicone on the screw. I cleaned it all off, used 3M 4200 to rebed the screws and reseal the hatch frame to the deck.

Walkthrough:
- I removed the interior shade by taking out 4 phillips screws. It comes down as 1 piece.
- I taped the topside around the hatch to keep any 4200 that oosed out from making a mess.
- removed the phillips screws on the topside and lifted out hat, it came loose with hand pressure- no tools
- cleaned both surfaces, most of the tape came off in chunks
- applied 4200 around the interior end, and put some on each screw hole.

I has a light drip inside, but it looked like it was leaking for a while. The source of the drip has some very light de-lamination which didn't extend far back. My take away is that with the tape/silicon combo you may have water intrusion with no visible signs.

Pics below for anyone interested.

 

[West32]

Were you having issues? What made you take it apart?

 

[joeyleggz]

Getting caught up on spring maintenance and I wound up needing to reseal my forward most deck hatch. I would imagine if you haven't your boats are going to be coming due soon. There seal itself was an adhesive tape, with silicone on the screw. I cleaned it all off, used 3M 4200 to rebed the screws and reseal the hatch frame to the deck.

Walkthrough:
- I removed the interior shade by taking out 4 phillips screws. It comes down as 1 piece.
- I taped the topside around the hatch to keep any 4200 that oosed out from making a mess.
- removed the phillips screws on the topside and lifted out hat, it came loose with hand pressure- no tools
- cleaned both surfaces, most of the tape came off in chunks
- applied 4200 around the interior end, and put some on each screw hole.

I has a light drip inside, but it looked like it was leaking for a while. The source of the drip has some very light de-lamination which didn't extend far back. My take away is that with the tape/silicon combo you may have water intrusion with no visible signs.

Pics below for anyone interested. View attachment 83508 View attachment 83509 View attachment 83510 View attachment 83511

Thanks man nice write up! So no gasket ? Think we’re all going to have to do this at some point I’m pushing over 20 years

 

[Shooter_x]

After I splashed this spring I was doing my “what broke over the winter walk around” and I had the beanbag chairs on the bed and I noticed some water drops on it. While it was raining I pulled the inner trim off and saw the drop.

I’m sure I could have found a gasket, and west marine sells sealant tape, but anywhere you bed hardware the standard is 4200...so that’s what I did.

In my case the tape and silicone appear to have failed long before I got to it, hence the delamination. It’s minor so I’m not worried - but I do plan to do the same to the other 2 hatches. Total time spend was about an hour.

Next on the list is my door trucks and track - the trucks have reached the end of their life. Door slides, but it’s heavy not being on the rollers. I’ll drop some stuff in when I do that for historical record lol

 

[Shooter_x]

We had a really good (all day) downpour yesterday and it did 2 thinks - Confirmed my repair was good, and confirmed my other 2 hatches need resealing. There was a bit of moisture on the shade, and 1 drop on the couch in the galley.. I think with less rain it wouldn't have been noticed. Like I was saying about the delamination, it is probably leaking enough to get in there, but rarely into the cabin.

 

[Hick]

My galley faucet is leaking whenever the hot water is turned on, but not leaking otherwise. I think the faucet is a Scandvik standard galley mixer. I see the slow leak coming out thru the hot water knob. I can not figure out how to pull that knob to check the inside for the source of the leak. Also, I have no idea how to replace the faucet if it comes to that as the underside of the sink and faucet appears to be encased in the cabinetry.

I checked this thread for this issue and saw a previous similar question, but no answers.

Thanks,

1998 SeaRay Amberjack 37

 

[Shooter_x]

My galley faucet is leaking whenever the hot water is turned on, but not leaking otherwise. I think the faucet is a Scandvik standard galley mixer. I see the slow leak coming out thru the hot water knob. I can not figure out how to pull that knob to check the inside for the source of the leak. Also, I have no idea how to replace the faucet if it comes to that as the underside of the sink and faucet appears to be encased in the cabinetry.

I checked this thread for this issue and saw a previous similar question, but no answers.

Thanks,

1998 SeaRay Amberjack 37

Hick, I had to replace mine. It was doing the same thing so I purchased a small bar faucet from amazon instead of parts kits rebuilds (the original was also kind of gross looking from oxidizing). I think this is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/FLG-Modern-S...ised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=3754331

It is sort of buried in cabinets. All of the draws slide out, and I had to wiggle my upper body in through the storage droor next to the draws and I could reach the back of the sink where it mounted. It wasn't the most fun job but could have been worse. I had several sink woes, including the drain fitting needing to be replaced and I couldn't get one as low profile as what was there.

If you have any other questions, let me know.

 

[Hick]

I followed your link and looked at that faucet. I actually have a similar faucet in my bar sink at home. It is not a very busy install. Now that I know I can get to it, I'll just have to contort my body to get inside the cabinet to get er done.
My back is sore just thinkin bout it.
Thanks,

 

[Shooter_x]

Back again with more "Everyone learn from my suffering"

My cabin door felt...heavy. So some investigating I found one of the trucks exploded, so I got in touch with FP-Marine and found this kit - https://www.fpmarine.com/Plastic-sliding-door-track-and-rollers-p/door-trackset-single-truck-sys.htm

I'll say this - I worked with Ben Marx there and he was prompt and knowledgeable.

He and the website said the old style trucks which the door rides on (which mine had) required replacing the entire track.

Heres the TLDR: The old trucks CAN be replaced without replacing the tracks - which is this part (Quantity 4) - https://www.fpmarine.com/Sliding-door-track-rollers-p/door truck b 25mm.htm

I removed the block by the bottom track, took the door out (which is tight but can be done) and found that its screwed down all the way behind the fiberglass form on the port side (with the steps and map area).

I'll add my walk through at the bottom, but heres the comparison of the original (I think) non bearing design, and the new ball bearing trucks.

Heres the walkthrough -
1. Start with door closed.
2. Unscrew the 4 screws at the top holding the trucks
3. Unscrew the 3 screws at the bottom of the door holding it to the u channel.
4. Unlatch the door, slide it back to clear the door lock and gently work it out of the U channel, and lift out of the doorway. I did this by myself, and laid it over top of the port side (passenger side of the helm)
5. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the U channel to the bottom trucks.
6. Unscrew the bottom track (like 4 visible screws) and unscrew the block of starboard front of it.
7. Pull the track away from the Cabin enough to slide out the bottom trucks and slide in the new ones.
8. Slide out the top trucks and replace
9. Re secure starboard block and bottom U channel.
10. Hate your life while you try to line up the trucks to the U channel and reinstall.
11. Hate your life while you wiggle the door back in,fight it back into the U channel and then fight to line up the holes in the U channel with the holes in the door.
11. Hate your life while you align the top trucks with the door, which will wiggle around a good bit. Use a flat blade screwdriver to move the truck to the right spot.
12. Reinstall the top screws.

It took be about 45 minutes or so start to finish. I'm guessing our track and the sundancers are different and the majority of the tracks FP Marine sees are Sundancers.

All you need is a few beverages, 4 trucks, and some patience and you're all set. My bottom trucks were both cracked in half, the tops were intact. Mine is a 97, so most of this group is probably looking at experiencing this in the next few years.

Hope this helps someone and saves them the $$ of buying the whole kit.

Cheers!

 

[Shooter_x]

I also rebuilt the VacuFlush head - theres a million resources on that so I won't spam it here, but if anyone has questions on that it is also a treat. My bowl seal was leaking and the pump would kick on way too frequently.