Official 370 Sundancer thread

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Also I'm not that technical with The throttle and shifter control boxes but I want the newer style (later 90's) with the gold round knobs similar to the picture. Are they easy to install? Advice on DIY or have it done professional? I'm handy but I never worked on The controls before. Obviously dual controls don't pay so much attention to the picture. Just style... you guys probably know which ones I'm talking about. A bit scary lol
 
Roch Speiser said:
View attachment 107982 View attachment 107983 Thought I would post before and after of my dash re-do on my 1995 370 in case folks were interested. Maybe not? lol
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take your charging cable behind and into the cavity where the pad is. It's the same area behind the dash as where you ran it to. I assume you are running your charging wire to STBD to the 12v fuse block, using a 12v to USB 5v, or can the Pro take 12v as a charging voltage?
 
goes to the 12v fuse block..12v to USB 5v......im trying to avoid putting hole in the new trim but im getting close to it...it only has to bother me a little bit more...lol
 
Roch Speiser said:
View attachment 107998 Also I'm not that technical with The throttle and shifter control boxes but I want the newer style (later 90's) with the gold round knobs similar to the picture. Are they easy to install? Advice on DIY or have it done professional? I'm handy but I never worked on The controls before. Obviously dual controls don't pay so much attention to the picture. Just style... you guys probably know which ones I'm talking about. A bit scary lol
Click to expand...
The "guts" underneath are basically the same between the pic you posted, and the levers you have. The main difference is that the originals are flush mount, and the ones in the pic are top mount. I'd be a bit concerned about top mounts getting in the way of the switches. If it's gold you are looking for, Teleflex made gold knobs. Here's an install guide to help you understand what's going on behind the dash. They may be easy to work on if there's enough slack in the cables to pull the shifters out of the dash. If not, then you'll be disconnecting the cables first. You have CH4400 series shifters.
https://manualzz.com/doc/9629759/ch4400-controls
If you really want gold knobs,
Rupp 03-1226-23G Control Knob Gold for Morse Controls 3/8-24 Thread
Read descriptions carefully. Some controls are made for throttle/shift only, and others are either function on each lever. Your boat is set up with throttles together and shifters together.
 

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Roch Speiser said:
View attachment 107998 Also I'm not that technical with The throttle and shifter control boxes but I want the newer style (later 90's) with the gold round knobs similar to the picture. Are they easy to install? Advice on DIY or have it done professional? I'm handy but I never worked on The controls before. Obviously dual controls don't pay so much attention to the picture. Just style... you guys probably know which ones I'm talking about. A bit scary lol
Click to expand...

You don’t have to change out the entire control head. You can change out the knobs to fit the style you want. I changed out the black plastic covered T-handles for polished stainless steel. I don’t remember where i got them, but this link takes you to some of the options available, https://marinepartssource.com/products-by-brand/seastar-solutions/engine-controls/replacement-knobs
Just pop off the center cap to the T-handles and you will see the nut that holds the head onto the shifter or trottle and away you go.
 
Does anyone know if the engines on the '95 model have another circuit breaker other than the 50 amp mounted directly on the engine? I thought my engine issues were resolved but took the boat out on a cruise last night and the starboard engine died again after about 30 - 45 mins. Running about 3200rpm the boat "bucked" and then the engine died. Tried restarting no luck. limped home on one engine and was able to start the starboard when I got back to the marina to get docked. Could there be an issue when the engine temp gets up that would affect the 50 amp breaker? How would I test that other than swapping with the port or replacing?
 
Party_of_5 said:
Does anyone know if the engines on the '95 model have another circuit breaker other than the 50 amp mounted directly on the engine? I thought my engine issues were resolved but took the boat out on a cruise last night and the starboard engine died again after about 30 - 45 mins. Running about 3200rpm the boat "bucked" and then the engine died. Tried restarting no luck. limped home on one engine and was able to start the starboard when I got back to the marina to get docked. Could there be an issue when the engine temp gets up that would affect the 50 amp breaker? How would I test that other than swapping with the port or replacing?
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Don't want to be flippant, but you just described a symptom that could be caused by 100 different issues.
Q1: If electricity caused the engine to quit, you would likely not be able to even crank the engine over when restarting. Need more info about that. I've had bad alternators let me run all the 12v out of a bank, and then the engine just dies.
Q2: When trying to restart, could you hear the electric fuel pump energizing before engaging the starter? (Good to wait a second when going from off to on, and then start) Only applicable if you have EFI engines.
Q3: more of a statement. First blush, it seems heat related, but that can mean 100 things too.
Q4: Fuel/Water Separator replacement date? One gulp of water instead of fuel will kill any engine dependent on explosion by spark. Could be a while before it gets over that.
 
Trying to dig up a schematic that identifies this connection but no luck. Does anyone know what this electrical connection that is on top of the exhaust manifold is? This might be the culprit, it was very loose and as I was checking connections from the circuit breaker it unplugged.
 

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Party_of_5 said:
Trying to dig up a schematic that identifies this connection but no luck. Does anyone know what this electrical connection that is on top of the exhaust manifold is? This might be the culprit, it was very loose and as I was checking connections from the circuit breaker it unplugged.
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This your engine harness connector. I sent a PM with the schematic link.
 
I thought my drain plug was leaking but turns out water is coming from the little cavity below the drain plug and opposite side of the cavity.
It’s a small pin hole leak that would maybe take 2 days for a gallon.

so now I’m reading something outside is probably causing it and the water is traveling. Could be trim tabs. Zinc studs, etc. or even the drain plug flange or screws.
I’ve had the boat a year and it’s always done this. Surveyor never said anything about it and he did the hammer test on the whole boat. So I’m wondering if the 1995 370 is solid fiberglass back there. I may get it hauled out and checked out but worried the bill will be too big and my boating days are over.
Thoughts?
 
DaltonGang said:
I thought my drain plug was leaking but turns out water is coming from the little cavity below the drain plug and opposite side of the cavity.
It’s a small pin hole leak that would maybe take 2 days for a gallon.

so now I’m reading something outside is probably causing it and the water is traveling. Could be trim tabs. Zinc studs, etc. or even the drain plug flange or screws.
I’ve had the boat a year and it’s always done this. Surveyor never said anything about it and he did the hammer test on the whole boat. So I’m wondering if the 1995 370 is solid fiberglass back there. I may get it hauled out and checked out but worried the bill will be too big and my boating days are over.
Thoughts?
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There are many layers of glass throughout the keel. I've chased a different water issue, but during that search, I was told by Sea Ray that there are instances of water intrusion from an external object (underwater Exhaust ports are the usual suspect) letting water in to one of the layers, and then migrates to an opening, like what you describe.
If you are a "dry as a bone" bilge kind of person, then I would consider plugging the hole with something that can cure in water, or wait until you are hauled to do it. Here's a drawing of the laminate layout.
stringer tie in to hull.PNG
 
RubberDuckeeToo2 said:
You don’t have to change out the entire control head. You can change out the knobs to fit the style you want. I changed out the black plastic covered T-handles for polished stainless steel. I don’t remember where i got them, but this link takes you to some of the options available, https://marinepartssource.com/products-by-brand/seastar-solutions/engine-controls/replacement-knobs
Just pop off the center cap to the T-handles and you will see the nut that holds the head onto the shifter or trottle and away you go.
Click to expand...
Wow how dumb was I...never thought of that. You are smarter than the average bear!! Thank you
 
370Dancer said:
That being loose would definitely cause the engine to just quit.
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Now that I've got that connected securely my engine temp gauge is working again. Thought the sender was bad. Both my engine harness connectors have hose clamps around them I guess to keep them connected. Is that a factory thing or an add on by previous owner?
 
370Dancer said:
All i can find these days are Rupps. Might look silly on top of a T handle stem, but it will be unique!
Rupp 03-1226-23G
Anchor Express is a good company, and I believe that have them in stock.
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I believe the T handles are held in by machine screws, and the round knobs are meant to be screwed onto a 3/8-24 stud. You'll be changing out the entire control to get the desired look. Gene, the metal T handles are zinc chrome. 6801812
Out of stock everywhere I've looked.
https://marinepartssource.com/products-by-brand/seastar-solutions/engine-controls/replacement-knobs
 
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