Official 370 Sundancer thread

Anyone out there have a 2012 or close to that year Sundancer?
I don't disagree with your sentiments at all. When we bought our 370 back in 2012, I Googled cleaning the downstairs carpet runner. A bunch of Club Searay links came up. I clicked and was hooked. I was a lot more active up until a couple of years ago when some "life changes" happened for us. So, a bit of a lifestyle change (outside of boating!), staying pretty much away from online "social" activity for my sanity and lots of quality family time has resulted in my return.

I too have learned a lot, saved a lot and made some great new friends. And no, we don't have 2 foot-itis at all!

(I'll put the soapbox I borrowed back now.)

Mark
Do you still have your 2012 370?
 
Its a Victor Dino steering wheel. Heres the link on ebay. I payed 40 bucks more than listed today. Lol
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VICTOR-DIN...609800?hash=item1f131c5408:g:rTcAAOSwQXZdrk-6

Thanks for this info. Can you tell me what to look for in regards to what steering wheel works? For example, this one says 3/4" shaft with keyway hub. Is that all that is needed to work? I know its a PITA getting the old off but I really want a new steering wheel and have the tools to pry it off.
 
If I remember correctly they are all pretty standard shafts. And yes it is all that is needed. I WD-40 the crap out of it, let it sit for about 30 minutes and it made it a lot easier.
 
Alright guys looks like I’m going end up replacing my cutlass bearings in the fall/winter.

I’ve gotten some conflicting information regarding the correct size cutlass bearing. So far I’ve heard the shaft dia is 1.25” and 1.50”......I have a 95/96 370 with 7.4l mercs...

Also, I’m looking into a prop puller....anyone use the harmonic puller? Do they work well?

Thanks!!!!
 
All 370s that I am familiar with are 1.5" shafts.
A cheap harbor freight caliper (digital no less) will get you in the ballpark just to be sure.
I've used a big old 3 leg hand crank puller for the last 3 boats, but if it's in the water, and I'm not in the mood, my bottom diver will usually do it for 50-75 bucks. Especially if he knows ahead of time, or he's already in the water. Back in my youth, I made some 400 bucks one day in January by swimming around Marina Jacks in a wet suit and scuba gear after looking at my props. NOBODY wanted in that water at that temp.
 
Anyone transport a 370 over the road? How good/bad to they travel? Do you need to remove the arch? What about the width?
 
All 370s that I am familiar with are 1.5" shafts.
A cheap harbor freight caliper (digital no less) will get you in the ballpark just to be sure.
I've used a big old 3 leg hand crank puller for the last 3 boats, but if it's in the water, and I'm not in the mood, my bottom diver will usually do it for 50-75 bucks. Especially if he knows ahead of time, or he's already in the water. Back in my youth, I made some 400 bucks one day in January by swimming around Marina Jacks in a wet suit and scuba gear after looking at my props. NOBODY wanted in that water at that temp.

What would the bottom diver do, remove the props?
Is it possible to replace the bearings in the water?
 
I am looking for a path to route power cables from batteries in engine compartment to the amps in the salon. I found this on the forward starboard side , gray tube with a single orange wire with green stripe. does any body know where this tube comes out?

very very old thread but curious if you found a path to the salon from engine compartment
 
Anyone transport a 370 over the road? How good/bad to they travel? Do you need to remove the arch?

Not sure if you intend to tow it yourself or have it towed by specialist road haul Co.
Only time I had my 370 on the road is when I bought it and had to get it towed to my marina about 400km away. Truck driver insisted on having all items sticking above the arch spoiler removed, had to lower antennaes - Nav light pole - remove Radar dome etc all loose items inside had to be fully secured for trip. I followed the truck all the way down and she towed very well from what I observed but it was a big truck & big bogey chasse so not sure how it would go with a smaller personal type truck & trailer etc if that's what you intend.
Hope of some help.
John.
Beamsville Ontario
 
What would the bottom diver do, remove the props?
Is it possible to replace the bearings in the water?
I have only replaced Cutlass bearings out of the water. I have had props removed and reinstalled in the water by both me, and my diver. That's what I was talking about.
 
I was on a seatrial with a 1995 370 Sundancer with 8.1 motors and the top speed was 30knots. This is going off the gauge (I didnt think to use my phone GPS) but I expected a little better than that. I believe we got to 4500-4600 RPM and bottom was cleaned maybe 2 weeks prior.

I would think these big motors would've got us in the 32-33 range,
Boat had 2 people, 30% fuel, 1/2 water in fresh tank.

I don't know which type of props it has. Haul out is next week.
Does 30 knots seem ok for this setup?
 
I was on a seatrial with a 1995 370 Sundancer with 8.1 motors and the top speed was 30knots. This is going off the gauge (I didnt think to use my phone GPS) but I expected a little better than that. I believe we got to 4500-4600 RPM and bottom was cleaned maybe 2 weeks prior.

I would think these big motors would've got us in the 32-33 range,
Boat had 2 people, 30% fuel, 1/2 water in fresh tank.

I don't know which type of props it has. Haul out is next week.
Does 30 knots seem ok for this setup?
I don't really know what it should be, but that's really moving for a boat that size. Good luck.
 
I was on a seatrial with a 1995 370 Sundancer with 8.1 motors and the top speed was 30knots. This is going off the gauge (I didnt think to use my phone GPS) but I expected a little better than that. I believe we got to 4500-4600 RPM and bottom was cleaned maybe 2 weeks prior.

I would think these big motors would've got us in the 32-33 range,
Boat had 2 people, 30% fuel, 1/2 water in fresh tank.

I don't know which type of props it has. Haul out is next week.
Does 30 knots seem ok for this setup?

30kts is gettin' after it. Sounds right in line to me...
 
The best I have had my 2000 380 is just shy of 32 knots... that was 4 men, almost empty fuel, Empty water, waste no gear.... my boat weighs 18,300 dry

I do not get that now, usually just above 30 knots with half tank of gas and all kinds of gear, full water etc
 
Thanks. Would be a pro job -- It's a big boat.

Don't think you would have any problem using a professional boat hauling Co.
On mine they used the low loader bogey type of trailer that slides under/around
the boat and gives full support allround. Forgot to mention that they insisted on
removing all topside canvas which makes sense. See attch'd photos; John.
IMG_1556.JPG IMG_1560.JPG
 
My mechanical survey came back on the 1995 370 (with 8.1) and the 2 big items are all fuel line should be replaced. He ballparked the quote at $1600.
Also, he mentioned a 2.5" exhaust line (below water level) that is dry and that is about $900.
Do these prices seem reasonable? I'm told this mechanic is higher priced than others but absolutely knows his stuff.

The 2.5" exhaust line is something that can be done while in the water. I'm wondering what hose this is that he is talking about...Anyone know? I may just do that myself...$900 seems high.
 
My mechanical survey came back on the 1995 370 (with 8.1) and the 2 big items are all fuel line should be replaced. He ballparked the quote at $1600.
Also, he mentioned a 2.5" exhaust line (below water level) that is dry and that is about $900.
Do these prices seem reasonable? I'm told this mechanic is higher priced than others but absolutely knows his stuff.

The 2.5" exhaust line is something that can be done while in the water. I'm wondering what hose this is that he is talking about...Anyone know? I may just do that myself...$900 seems high.
Is this a written quote? If so, what size fuel line, is he going to reuse the push on connectors, etc. from the old lines, or replace all new?
Unless you have a fuel crossover switching system, it's literally a line from the tank fitting to the electric fuel shutoff valve to the water separator inlet. Now if he's adding in the fuel line to the high pressure pump, and the return line from the fuel regulator, that will kick it up in both the hose costs and the labor to get at the Starboard Cool Fuel II assembly. Maybe the 2.5" exhaust is for the generator? Do you have Water Lift mufflers? (big black can that sits aft of the engine where the exhaust tubes from the engine go into)? Might be talking about the exhaust hoses from the can to the side overboards, but they are not below the waterline. thru hulls to strainers, maybe for engine raw water intake? That is below the waterline.
 
Is this a written quote? If so, what size fuel line, is he going to reuse the push on connectors, etc. from the old lines, or replace all new?
Unless you have a fuel crossover switching system, it's literally a line from the tank fitting to the electric fuel shutoff valve to the water separator inlet. Now if he's adding in the fuel line to the high pressure pump, and the return line from the fuel regulator, that will kick it up in both the hose costs and the labor to get at the Starboard Cool Fuel II assembly. Maybe the 2.5" exhaust is for the generator? Do you have Water Lift mufflers? (big black can that sits aft of the engine where the exhaust tubes from the engine go into)? Might be talking about the exhaust hoses from the can to the side overboards, but they are not below the waterline. thru hulls to strainers, maybe for engine raw water intake? That is below the waterline.

He said all fuel line and there are crossovers, fuel cool system, etc. He was talking like there were a lot of different lines and it was some work. It's not a written quote. 1/2" fuel line if I remember correctly and he said my cost at westmarine is $9/ft but he can get it for $4.50. Not sure about the push connectors but sounds like he was suggesting to do it all.

the 2.5" hose wasn't generator. He said engine exhaust which helps with back pressure. I think it is the cans to side overboards. That makes the most sense although not sure if it needed 1 or both.
I wouldn't do the fuel system myself but i may tackle the 2 exhaust ones. Those don't seem like they'd be too difficult? (assuming they are the can to overboard hose)
 

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