Official 390 E.C. Thread

Can any one tell me how to access and remove upper sliding door track on my 390. I have removed lower strip which allows lower track to be removed but upper track has me stumped, any help would be greatly appreciated. I am attempting to replace upper and lower track rollers.
 
Thanks for the reply

I removed top trim piece long screws but trim would not release. I did not force it for fear of damage, Was it as stubborn when you removed your trim and if so how did you remove it.

Thanks again for your help.

Ken
 
Thanks for the reply

I removed top trim piece long screws but trim would not release. I did not force it for fear of damage, Was it as stubborn when you removed your trim and if so how did you remove it.

Thanks again for your help.

Ken

Probably siliconed in like everything else on a vintage Sea Ray
 
Can anyone tell me how the a/c unit comes out from under the bunk bed? I'd rather not take apart things I don't have to if I can find out which part needs to be unbolted.
Thanks.
 
Probably siliconed in like everything else on a vintage Sea Ray


:smt038Thanks for the great advice,

The top wood trim and metal strip were liberally coated and tight silicone.

I hammered in 2" putty knife then tapped on the side to move it across until it released.

Ken :thumbsup:
 
Nick

haven't got a chance yet. I just installed a new carb with electric choke. checked timing on both motors and was so surprised to find them both off. getting ready to do a short haul soon and have my props checked.

Saverio

I found the cause of my a/c tripping. I caught it in the act, and was able to narrow it down to the pump relay under the stairs. It was pulling down the voltage from the main unit and the pump was not running steady. After a while, the pump would shut off and the compressor would kick out on high pressure, then try to restart as soon as the high pressure switch cleared (which is really bad for the compressor) and trip the breaker when it couldn't start against the load. Mine was popping at 60+ amps. I jumped out the relay to confirm, then I swapped the two relays in the panel, since my forward a/c unit is down anyway. It's been running ever since, with the right voltages everywhere.

The tell tale sign to look for is low voltage on the bottom terminals of the relay, or hearing the pump stuttering.
 
I have question: The 454 Mercs normally use an AC spark plug. Has anyone used a different brand of plug that they found that worked better. There are a lot of other manufactures of spark plugs with big claims to better performance.
 
My 390EC had 7.4's. I bought it from the dealer with 70 hours after the original owner traded it on the 440CV. The boat was 18 months old and had never had the plugs changed. I am in a salt water environment, and my boats are used 12 months a year. The AC plugs had a black iron base that would rust in a heart beat. I had to drive the socket on the plug base to get them out. I immediately changed to NippoDenso plugs which have a cadmium plated base. I ran the Denso plugs for 9 years and had the best running 454's in the marina.

So, I don't think the make of the plug matters, but I would certainly select one that has a plated base.
 
I have question: The 454 Mercs normally use an AC spark plug. Has anyone used a different brand of plug that they found that worked better. There are a lot of other manufactures of spark plugs with big claims to better performance.

A spark plug is a spark plug - how ever they do go bad an it is not always apparent by looking at them. The best spark plug on the market is a NEW spark plug! Change them often - every 100 hours or so - they are cheap!
 
Seal replaced, shaft log rebuilt.
Turns out the original shaft log was a piece of Centek exhaust tubing. http://www.centekindustries.com/vernatubegroup.html Original installation was done so poorly that a Centek label under clear tape was still on a broken piece of the shaft log.



Now just need prop and shaft back from the shop.
 
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So quick question from this past weekend...my 39 has a Diesel Quicksilver Gen and has one of the smaller Centek exhaust mufflers for gens...apparently the drain plug on mine is no longer affixed so it was pumping water into the bilge...Anyone know what size & type of bolt or plug I can use to replace the drain? It's much smaller than the larger Centek mufflers for engines which I apparently have spares for but assume that using a stainless bolt would work just don't know the size so can't pick one up (boat's 1.25 hr away in Baltimore) & test without being there...figured I'd see if someone may have come across this & see if they had any ideas...Thank you,
Dale
 
So quick question from this past weekend...my 39 has a Diesel Quicksilver Gen and has one of the smaller Centek exhaust mufflers for gens...apparently the drain plug on mine is no longer affixed so it was pumping water into the bilge...Anyone know what size & type of bolt or plug I can use to replace the drain? It's much smaller than the larger Centek mufflers for engines which I apparently have spares for but assume that using a stainless bolt would work just don't know the size so can't pick one up (boat's 1.25 hr away in Baltimore) & test without being there...figured I'd see if someone may have come across this & see if they had any ideas...Thank you,
Dale
Would not the drain plug still be in the bilge if it is no longer affixed? I cant imaging using a bolt for a drain plug. Why not just bring a set of standard size plugs? 1/8, 1/4, 3/8/ 1/2. Use stainless or bronze. DO NOT USE BRASS in salt water.
 
Would not the drain plug still be in the bilge if it is no longer affixed? I cant imaging using a bolt for a drain plug. Why not just bring a set of standard size plugs? 1/8, 1/4, 3/8/ 1/2. Use stainless or bronze. DO NOT USE BRASS in salt water.

Yes it probably was in the bilge but I had a diesel leak from couple different loose fittings that required me to vacuum the fuel out & dispose of so I couldn't find it...I've got stainless plug fittings in my amazon cart now & should be good...I was trying to find a place that could provide me the specific plug from Centek for some reason instead of just doing a standard which probably could've been found at ace hardware...duh, need more coffee today...thanks for help,
Dale
 
Yes it probably was in the bilge but I had a diesel leak from couple different loose fittings that required me to vacuum the fuel out & dispose of so I couldn't find it...I've got stainless plug fittings in my amazon cart now & should be good...I was trying to find a place that could provide me the specific plug from Centek for some reason instead of just doing a standard which probably could've been found at ace hardware...duh, need more coffee today...thanks for help,
Dale

My boat is 2 hours away so I know exactly what you are dealing with.
 

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