Eluther3
Active Member
- Mar 17, 2019
- 294
- Boat Info
- 1992 Searay 400 EC
- Engines
- Mercruiser
Success. Cleaned out the strainer, refilled it, then filled the input tube with water. Turned the engine on and everything works.
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Hi Folks,
I'm starting to look at autopilot systems for a winter project and wanted to get opinions on things to look out for, both positive and negetive. I'd like to find a nice valued option that is sized properly for our boats. I don't want to spend $4k-$5K on a system. I'll be doing the install. I cruise Lake Michigan, along the west coast of Michigan, where the wind predominately blows out of the SW or NW creating enough wave action that make keeping the boat on course a PITA. Typical wave height is 2'-5' so the unit will be getting a pretty good workout when heanding north or south and the waves are coming from the fore or aft quarter. After and hour or more cruise, I feel like I cut a cord of wood working the steering wheel, lol....
My helm is not full of electronics. I have a Raymarine 7a series MFD w/Navionics, older Garman 126 GPS for backup, and Autohelm Tridata for depth.
My questions are:
Is a remote control worth the additional cost?
Good/bad locations for hardware mounting, pump, compass, etc.?
Useful/usless features in your systems?
If you had to buy another system what would you do different?
Appreciate any feedback!
Greg
I just completed my AP install.
Started the process 10 years ago…time fly’s
Its all outdated Raymarine stuff but, works Amazingly well.
I’d say pick your favorite brand and get that.
If you ever get a new plotter..it’ll match and likely network easier.
I’d recommend Garmin.
Greg,
I am thinking of adding an autopilot to my boat as well and am wondering which system to get as well. I too would like to hear what others say on the topic.
I just completed my AP install.
Started the process 10 years ago…time fly’s
Its all outdated Raymarine stuff but, works Amazingly well.
I’d say pick your favorite brand and get that.
If you ever get a new plotter..it’ll match and likely network easier.
I’d recommend Garmin.
Harold,
This weekend talking to my friend, has a 1989 Searay 42 Sundancer. He put in a Raymarine EV-200. Complete kit was about $2.5K from West MArine but he did use come coupons. Looks like a nice easy install. I'm looking at the EV-150 beause our boats our a little lighter than his. Will call Raymarine to discuss. He said Raymarine customer support was great.
Thanks - sounds not too terrible ;-)1/4 20 bolts. reach up from the openings in the panel. port side removable panel forward and remove city water panels to get to it from there. all you need is a wrench. you will also need to remove the companion seat base as well.
It is not too bad, as long as the bolts are not rusted or the bolt spins in the wood panel. If the panels are as rotted as you say, it is possible that a bolt or two may spin and you may not get the nuts off. A couple of mine were like that.Thanks - sounds not too terrible ;-)
What did you use for material and thickness for your side panels?Also gutted the cockpit for new vinyl.....looks. Like a bomb went off. Should all be done by first week of April...then I can reinstall.
Been a minute since I've been on the forum. Doing a few updates and repairs in the off-season, including moving the anchor light from the windshield to the radar arch, repairing the passenger helm-bench seat (cracked plastic, getting it glued and laminated at the moment), replacing stereos/latches/lights, etc.
So the question to the group: Has anyone replaced the original light fixture in the bathroom? The one I removed is a Thin-Lite 1717, which isn't made anymore. The company has a similar model available, but I'd really like to go with something a little more modern looking, and LED.
Looking for for recommendations for suitable LED alternatives to the original fluorescent fixture. Thanks in advance!
I have not seen this in person so I cannot endorse the product, but a quick search on Amazon found this:
https://smile.amazon.com/UPGRADED-Interior-MIHAZ-Universal-Motorhome/dp/B07JNYBMZY/ref=sr_1_24?crid=SV5RHE7MYZSE&keywords=marine+cabin+lighting+fluorescent+replacement&qid=1644342693&sprefix=marine+cabin+lighting+fluorescent+replacement,aps,60&sr=8-24&th=1
What did you use for material and thickness for your side panels?
So we got all the side panels off - had a few challenges but got through them all. Mostly related to bolts that were barely accessible - worse one we had to pull the bottom of the panel out so I could wedge in behind it to get to the bolt. ( we will be re-locating a couple ;-). Another was so close to the bulkhead that they had to bend it - not bad once we figured it out and at least were able to get the nut off once it was loose. . .
Now we "found" the panel on the transom door - I can't find any way to get to any rear fasteners, so I'm guessing that it just is press fit in? Don't want to break it finding out.
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