Official 400EC thread

Success. Cleaned out the strainer, refilled it, then filled the input tube with water. Turned the engine on and everything works.
 
Has anyone out there updated your synchonizer gauge? If so, what did you go with? Ready to do my guages but so far, only the teleflex black gauge seems to be available.
 
Hi Folks,
I'm starting to look at autopilot systems for a winter project and wanted to get opinions on things to look out for, both positive and negetive. I'd like to find a nice valued option that is sized properly for our boats. I don't want to spend $4k-$5K on a system. I'll be doing the install. I cruise Lake Michigan, along the west coast of Michigan, where the wind predominately blows out of the SW or NW creating enough wave action that make keeping the boat on course a PITA. Typical wave height is 2'-5' so the unit will be getting a pretty good workout when heanding north or south and the waves are coming from the fore or aft quarter. After and hour or more cruise, I feel like I cut a cord of wood working the steering wheel, lol....

My helm is not full of electronics. I have a Raymarine 7a series MFD w/Navionics, older Garman 126 GPS for backup, and Autohelm Tridata for depth.

My questions are:
Is a remote control worth the additional cost?
Good/bad locations for hardware mounting, pump, compass, etc.?
Useful/usless features in your systems?
If you had to buy another system what would you do different?

Appreciate any feedback!

Greg
 
GregM said:
Hi Folks,
I'm starting to look at autopilot systems for a winter project and wanted to get opinions on things to look out for, both positive and negetive. I'd like to find a nice valued option that is sized properly for our boats. I don't want to spend $4k-$5K on a system. I'll be doing the install. I cruise Lake Michigan, along the west coast of Michigan, where the wind predominately blows out of the SW or NW creating enough wave action that make keeping the boat on course a PITA. Typical wave height is 2'-5' so the unit will be getting a pretty good workout when heanding north or south and the waves are coming from the fore or aft quarter. After and hour or more cruise, I feel like I cut a cord of wood working the steering wheel, lol....

My helm is not full of electronics. I have a Raymarine 7a series MFD w/Navionics, older Garman 126 GPS for backup, and Autohelm Tridata for depth.

My questions are:
Is a remote control worth the additional cost?
Good/bad locations for hardware mounting, pump, compass, etc.?
Useful/usless features in your systems?
If you had to buy another system what would you do different?

Appreciate any feedback!

Greg
Click to expand...

Greg,
I am thinking of adding an autopilot to my boat as well and am wondering which system to get as well. I too would like to hear what others say on the topic.
 
I just completed my AP install.
Started the process 10 years ago…time fly’s :)
Its all outdated Raymarine stuff but, works Amazingly well.

I’d say pick your favorite brand and get that.
If you ever get a new plotter..it’ll match and likely network easier.
I’d recommend Garmin.
 
Air O'Nautical said:
I just completed my AP install.
Started the process 10 years ago…time fly’s :)
Its all outdated Raymarine stuff but, works Amazingly well.

I’d say pick your favorite brand and get that.
If you ever get a new plotter..it’ll match and likely network easier.
I’d recommend Garmin.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark.

I have been adding some older Raymarine units on my boat as well (RL80C, RN300 GPS and about to install an L760 depth unit). I may search eBay for the comparable autopilot.

Glad you got the autopilot set up. Either it will help with the sale or you can use her on the cruise south. :)
 
h_gerry said:
Greg,
I am thinking of adding an autopilot to my boat as well and am wondering which system to get as well. I too would like to hear what others say on the topic.
Click to expand...

Harold,
This weekend talking to my friend, has a 1989 Searay 42 Sundancer. He put in a Raymarine EV-200. Complete kit was about $2.5K from West MArine but he did use come coupons. Looks like a nice easy install. I'm looking at the EV-150 beause our boats our a little lighter than his. Will call Raymarine to discuss. He said Raymarine customer support was great.
 
Air O'Nautical said:
I just completed my AP install.
Started the process 10 years ago…time fly’s :)
Its all outdated Raymarine stuff but, works Amazingly well.

I’d say pick your favorite brand and get that.
If you ever get a new plotter..it’ll match and likely network easier.
I’d recommend Garmin.
Click to expand...

I agree. Get your favorite brand. My 400 has the original Raymarine autopilot from 1998 and I've upgraded the chart plotter to a new Garmin unit. It interfaces just fine and works good. If I was starting over I'd likely get a Garmin autopilot just because I think they make good products. But really, about anything will work as long as it's spec'd for your size boat.
 
GregM said:
Harold,
This weekend talking to my friend, has a 1989 Searay 42 Sundancer. He put in a Raymarine EV-200. Complete kit was about $2.5K from West MArine but he did use come coupons. Looks like a nice easy install. I'm looking at the EV-150 beause our boats our a little lighter than his. Will call Raymarine to discuss. He said Raymarine customer support was great.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan. I would be interested in knowing what Raymarine says.
Also, don't forget to check out BOE Marine and what price he can give, remember Jim created this site.
 
So, our big winter project is to re-upholster all the cockpit seating. That "should" be relatively easy to remove and replace. However the port side panel needs to be re-done as well. The wooden backing has rotted around the storage port near the ice maker. Does anyone know how this large panel is kept in place? I haven't started digging yet, hoping someone can provide some guidance before I break anything. ;)
 
1/4 20 bolts. reach up from the openings in the panel. port side removable panel forward and remove city water panels to get to it from there. all you need is a wrench. you will also need to remove the companion seat base as well.
 
jonsm114 said:
1/4 20 bolts. reach up from the openings in the panel. port side removable panel forward and remove city water panels to get to it from there. all you need is a wrench. you will also need to remove the companion seat base as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks - sounds not too terrible ;-)
 
Nick Hahn said:
Thanks - sounds not too terrible ;-)
Click to expand...
It is not too bad, as long as the bolts are not rusted or the bolt spins in the wood panel. If the panels are as rotted as you say, it is possible that a bolt or two may spin and you may not get the nuts off. A couple of mine were like that.
 
Been a minute since I've been on the forum. Doing a few updates and repairs in the off-season, including moving the anchor light from the windshield to the radar arch, repairing the passenger helm-bench seat (cracked plastic, getting it glued and laminated at the moment), replacing stereos/latches/lights, etc.
So the question to the group: Has anyone replaced the original light fixture in the bathroom? The one I removed is a Thin-Lite 1717, which isn't made anymore. The company has a similar model available, but I'd really like to go with something a little more modern looking, and LED.
Looking for for recommendations for suitable LED alternatives to the original fluorescent fixture. Thanks in advance!
 
No, I haven't replaced that light, but it's certainly a good idea. If you figure out a good solution, please let us know how it goes.
 
Fun Hurts said:
Been a minute since I've been on the forum. Doing a few updates and repairs in the off-season, including moving the anchor light from the windshield to the radar arch, repairing the passenger helm-bench seat (cracked plastic, getting it glued and laminated at the moment), replacing stereos/latches/lights, etc.
So the question to the group: Has anyone replaced the original light fixture in the bathroom? The one I removed is a Thin-Lite 1717, which isn't made anymore. The company has a similar model available, but I'd really like to go with something a little more modern looking, and LED.
Looking for for recommendations for suitable LED alternatives to the original fluorescent fixture. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...


I have not seen this in person so I cannot endorse the product, but a quick search on Amazon found this:

https://smile.amazon.com/UPGRADED-I...g+fluorescent+replacement,aps,60&sr=8-24&th=1
 
Craig Lovegreen said:
What did you use for material and thickness for your side panels?
Click to expand...

So we got all the side panels off - had a few challenges but got through them all. Mostly related to bolts that were barely accessible - worse one we had to pull the bottom of the panel out so I could wedge in behind it to get to the bolt. ( we will be re-locating a couple ;-). Another was so close to the bulkhead that they had to bend it - not bad once we figured it out and at least were able to get the nut off once it was loose. . .

Now we "found" the panel on the transom door - I can't find any way to get to any rear fasteners, so I'm guessing that it just is press fit in? Don't want to break it finding out.
PXL_20220213_203850816.jpg
 
Nick Hahn said:
So we got all the side panels off - had a few challenges but got through them all. Mostly related to bolts that were barely accessible - worse one we had to pull the bottom of the panel out so I could wedge in behind it to get to the bolt. ( we will be re-locating a couple ;-). Another was so close to the bulkhead that they had to bend it - not bad once we figured it out and at least were able to get the nut off once it was loose. . .

Now we "found" the panel on the transom door - I can't find any way to get to any rear fasteners, so I'm guessing that it just is press fit in? Don't want to break it finding out.
View attachment 120553
Click to expand...

When I had my cockpit redone last year, they couldn't access any of the screws on the back side except a couple. It must be installed prior to the two halves being put together. Anyway, the installer said 99% of the time they reinstall panels they can't get to the back side with those double sided Christmas tree fasteners. The ones they used were very stout units.

They looked like this - https://www.amazon.com/Clipsandfast...ocphy=9027025&hvtargid=pla-553693759876&psc=1
 
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