Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

No problem reaching 2800+, Air sep needed cleaning but not bad, I will clean the vacuum regulator filter and breather element and see if that does it. Couldn't hurt! Thanks for clarifying.

I have a little sooting and I think minor sooting is normal with all diesel engines. Even my last VW "clean diesel" sooted the back end slightly.

If you have a black cloud following you, that might be an issue.
 
I think I ran my 400DA with the 3116's to the Bahamas nine or ten times and always had soot on the back of the swim platform and dingy mounted on the swim platform. The soot was from the water as exhaust dumps underwater. I ended up spraying Pam on the swim platform and dingy before any long run so it would be easy to clean off the soot. The soot is simply part of the mechanical engines. Now on my QSM11 electronic engines there is no soot at all...
 
If you have Walker Airseps, you might have have the CAT Engine Crank Case Breather.

It looks like an upside down oil/fuel filter and is located on top of the fuel filter assembly. Here's the procedure.

View attachment 100868

There is also a smaller round air filter called the vacuum regulator. That needs to be cleaned/replaced as well.

View attachment 100869
Just spoke to CAT and 3116's have a Crankcase Breather, no replaceable element change every 2000 hrs. https://shop.cat.com/en/usa-parts/filters/4W-3027 but, I appreciate the direction. I'll wait to swap that out. Now to see what model Walkers I have. Maybe they do have an element in them?
 
I think I ran my 400DA with the 3116's to the Bahamas nine or ten times and always had soot on the back of the swim platform and dingy mounted on the swim platform. The soot was from the water as exhaust dumps underwater. I ended up spraying Pam on the swim platform and dingy before any long run so it would be easy to clean off the soot. The soot is simply part of the mechanical engines. Now on my QSM11 electronic engines there is no soot at all...

I am learning this. With the QSC 500s in the 44DB, no smoke whatsoever. With the 6CTA mechanicals, a little smoke....

Would this sound normal Tom?

Bennett
 
I am learning this. With the QSC 500s in the 44DB, no smoke whatsoever. With the 6CTA mechanicals, a little smoke....

Would this sound normal Tom?

Bennett
Smoke or Soot?
I've never seen smoke on any of my engines. Now a cold start on my buddy's 05 58DB will smoke out the neighborhood - MAN's....
 
Smoke or Soot?
I've never seen smoke on any of my engines. Now a cold start on my buddy's 05 58DB will smoke out the neighborhood - MAN's....
As an edit - I would imagine that any diesel engine starting in cold weather will tend to smoke a bit..
 
Smoke or Soot?
I've never seen smoke on any of my engines. Now a cold start on my buddy's 05 58DB will smoke out the neighborhood - MAN's....
Non-CRM's I bet! The '05's came with the 800 HP Mechanicals as std engines. When they went to the 58's (same boat - minor differences) in '06, the CRM-900 became std. The mechanical (non-common rail versions) V-8's, V-10's, V-12's run on half the cyls below 1000 RPM...they make a heck of a racket at idle as well...
 
Just spoke to CAT and 3116's have a Crankcase Breather, no replaceable element change every 2000 hrs. https://shop.cat.com/en/usa-parts/filters/4W-3027 but, I appreciate the direction. I'll wait to swap that out. Now to see what model Walkers I have. Maybe they do have an element in them?

If you pull the breather (its held in place at the base with a V Clamp, and the hose), you can clean the element with solvent. The element looks like a brillo pad.
 
As an edit - I would imagine that any diesel engine starting in cold weather will tend to smoke a bit..

The 3126's have an air heater that solves this problem. Some owners disconnect them as they pull about 100A, and if far enough south, not really needed, and I imagine tough on the batteries. Carter had some pan heaters on his 410 he swears by...thats another option.

My Port engine had a a little white smoke with a cold startup. I knew the PO had disconnected the AH's, so I repaired that, and also diagnosed a bad magnetic switch. Repairing and replacing made the smoke go away.

If my wife cant see the smoke, its out of sight out of mind.
 
The 3126's have an air heater that solves this problem. Some owners disconnect them as they pull about 100A, and if far enough south, not really needed, and I imagine tough on the batteries. Carter had some pan heaters on his 410 he swears by...thats another option.

My Port engine had a a little white smoke with a cold startup. I knew the PO had disconnected the AH's, so I repaired that, and also diagnosed a bad magnetic switch. Repairing and replacing made the smoke go away.

If my wife cant see the smoke, its out of sight out of mind.

I only used the boat last year when it was warm but they will be helpful this year in April I’m sure. Do you turn the ignition on and give them a few moments to heat up?
 
I only used the boat last year when it was warm but they will be helpful this year in April I’m sure. Do you turn the ignition on and give them a few moments to heat up?

Yes. It takes about 30 seconds and you can tell from the dash volt meter (when they are on, voltage drops considerably, then comes back up) or the sound of the low oil pressure alarm on the sea ray monitor (change in pitch).

I'm probably on the edge of needing them, but I wanted to get them fixed so I can tell myself everything is working.

I've considered adding the pilot light to tell when its engaged (but not really necessary) and a switch to turn them off after about mid April. All I would have to do is interrupt the signal to the magnetic contactor. Once the season starts, probably not necessary and adds wear/tear to the batteries.
 
Guys, keep in mind that the pan heaters just heat the oil in the oil pan. They do not heat the intake air. The purpose of the pan heaters is to make the oil warmer and thereby more viscous so the starting motor has less work to do to turn the starter motor and, therefore, making the engine spin faster and start quicker. The intake air heater heats the air pumped into the intake stream and will make the fuel charge ignite quicker and burn far more completely. The pan heater will make starting easier but I don't see how it will reduce smoke because it does nothing to make the fuel charge burn more completely. They they just allow you to turn the engine faster which may shorten the "smokes like "freight-train" time a bit.
 
I've been poking around at a few 400's and man am I disappointed. People just don't take care of there stuff. That being said the one boat that even had my slightest interest had oil laying below the turbo, fuel dripping from the primer knob, and oil under the pan. The turbo oil worries me more then anything. What could be some possible reasons for that. 3116's
 
I've been poking around at a few 400's and man am I disappointed. People just don't take care of there stuff. That being said the one boat that even had my slightest interest had oil laying below the turbo, fuel dripping from the primer knob, and oil under the pan. The turbo oil worries me more then anything. What could be some possible reasons for that. 3116's
My guess is the oil return line. Both of mine leaked a few drops an hour because the two bolts had loosened up a bit overtime. They’re tough to get to but once tightened my leaks went away

The other possibility is the compressor housing is full of oil somehow

could you see where the oil was dripping from?
 
I really didn't look into it too much because I was so upset About how bad the rest of the boat was . But compared to the boat I looked at the next day it was a gem. So I may go back and look again. If I do ill spend more time in the engine room
 
I really didn't look into it too much because I was so upset About how bad the rest of the boat was . But compared to the boat I looked at the next day it was a gem. So I may go back and look again. If I do ill spend more time in the engine room

i’d say it could be something simple or catastrophic, helpful right? :)

if the turbo is leaking oil on the compressor shaft it could need a turbo rebuild, Engine blow by could be accumulating in the turbo, the wrong oil could be being used, etc.

The oil drain tube is easy to spot on the starboard side. If it’s a slow drip you’ll see it pooling where the tube enters the block and at the turbo on the flange on the underside of the compressor housing
 
Yes. It takes about 30 seconds and you can tell from the dash volt meter (when they are on, voltage drops considerably, then comes back up) or the sound of the low oil pressure alarm on the sea ray monitor (change in pitch).

I'm probably on the edge of needing them, but I wanted to get them fixed so I can tell myself everything is working.

I've considered adding the pilot light to tell when its engaged (but not really necessary) and a switch to turn them off after about mid April. All I would have to do is interrupt the signal to the magnetic contactor. Once the season starts, probably not necessary and adds wear/tear to the batteries.

I wonder, is it temp sensitive and turns on and off that way or does it switch on and shut off after a set period of time regardless?
 
I wonder, is it temp sensitive and turns on and off that way or does it switch on and shut off after a set period of time regardless?
I remember reading that they cycle on and off 10 seconds at a time until the ambient air and coolant temp reach a set temperature. Maybe 145 degrees.
 
Now I’ve got to check mine when I’m at the boat next, I’ve never noticed any voltage drop but I can’t say I’ve been looking for it.
 

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