Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Wow
You guys are great with all this info
I’ll pack my meter with me tomorrow am see what’s with the heaters or lack of
Are they in the intake after Turbo?
 
Pour Excuse said:
Wow
You guys are great with all this info
I’ll pack my meter with me tomorrow am see what’s with the heaters or lack of
Are they in the intake after Turbo?
Click to expand...

Welcome to CSR. These guys are a wealth of info. and always ready to help.
You may want to consider becoming a site sponsor/support CSR (click on said banner at top) in order to access Franks well regarded diesel fuel management regimen.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/diesel-fuel-management.84670/
along lots of other good info.
Once again, welcome to CSR.
 
Pour Excuse said:
Wow
You guys are great with all this info
I’ll pack my meter with me tomorrow am see what’s with the heaters or lack of
Are they in the intake after Turbo?
Click to expand...
Read what Frank Webster wrote again. There are no heaters on the 3116's only the 3126's, so it is moot. No need to look for them. You should have a three position rocker switch to start the engine. When the bottom of the switch is down, the engine is off. Pressing the top of the switch to the detent or click (Run) position, you should get a "steady Beeping" sound and it will energize the solenoid for starting. Press the top of the switch further and the engine will start. This is a "Momentary contact" position. As soon as you let it go once the engine is started it will return to the detent or "Run" position. To stop the engine simply press on the bottom of the switch.
 
Steve S said:
Read what Frank Webster wrote again. There are no heaters on the 3116's only the 3126's, so it is moot. No need to look for them. You should have a three position rocker switch to start the engine. When the bottom of the switch is down, the engine is off. Pressing the top of the switch to the detent or click (Run) position, you should get a "steady Beeping" sound and it will energize the solenoid for starting. Press the top of the switch further and the engine will start. This is a "Momentary contact" position. As soon as you let it go once the engine is started it will return to the detent or "Run" position. To stop the engine simply press on the bottom of the switch.
Click to expand...

yeah, sorry to mention the heaters - should have done my homework on the 3116 first. Us cold northerners need them :)

they make a huge difference in April when the ambient is 45* though. They’ll blow some smoke for a few minutes if I don’t let them cycle before firing up , but once the cylinders heat up it goes away.

I’ve found our 3126’s are unbelievably clean burning engines when they’re dialed in
 
Njlarry said:
Gereral maintenance like zincs, water pumps, alternator belt bolts etc.
Click to expand...
Hose clamps....

upload_2021-8-26_0-18-13.png



upload_2021-8-26_0-18-46.png
 
Big haul today :)

I bought a 10 pack of SOS kits and for only $25 more I just added the pump. Grabbed 2 extra oil filters and two extra fuel filter after my filter mishap (still have a fuel filter on the boat as spare so this will leave 2 extra)

A6983A6D-D812-410E-B26B-DCEF485EA0ED.jpeg
BDF67524-8252-4935-B7AB-EF95EC240E7B.jpeg
 
I bought the SOS a pump, but didn’t get the nice case…I feel cheated.
 
Saverio said:
Whats an sos pump?
Click to expand...

SOS is the CAT fluid testing service. You can buy test kits for oil, transmission fluids coolant etc. This is a little vacume pump to pull samples out of the engines and into the sample bottles.
 
Alright, so I've put a few hours on our new to us 01 SR 380 AC w/ the 3126.

I'm getting about 7-7.8 knots at 1450rpm and Floscan on Pt is 4.5+/- gph and Stb is saying 3.5+/-. Not sure what the 1 gph difference is due to, but adding that to the list.

Starboard is the one that starts overheating at 1700+ rpm and we haven't identified that yet but having the heat exchanger pulled and cleaned next week. It runs normal heat at 1400-1500 rpm consistently.
 
Thomas Griffith said:
Alright, so I've put a few hours on our new to us 01 SR 380 AC w/ the 3126.

I'm getting about 7-7.8 knots at 1450rpm and Floscan on Pt is 4.5+/- gph and Stb is saying 3.5+/-. Not sure what the 1 gph difference is due to, but adding that to the list.

Starboard is the one that starts overheating at 1700+ rpm and we haven't identified that yet but having the heat exchanger pulled and cleaned next week. It runs normal heat at 1400-1500 rpm consistently.
Click to expand...

You might want to look into having the entire raw water side cleaned, as there are several heat exchangers in the system, one or all could be contributing to low water flow.

The transmission cooler is a bottleneck and easily inspected.
 
Thomas Griffith said:
Alright, so I've put a few hours on our new to us 01 SR 380 AC w/ the 3126.

I'm getting about 7-7.8 knots at 1450rpm and Floscan on Pt is 4.5+/- gph and Stb is saying 3.5+/-. Not sure what the 1 gph difference is due to, but adding that to the list.

Starboard is the one that starts overheating at 1700+ rpm and we haven't identified that yet but having the heat exchanger pulled and cleaned next week. It runs normal heat at 1400-1500 rpm consistently.
Click to expand...

are props identical and in the same shape on both sides? additional load could contribute to the elevated consumption, although an extra gallon/hr isn't too significant. I'd be curious if they come closer to equal as the RPMs rise once you sort out the overheat issue
 
dtfeld said:
You might want to look into having the entire raw water side cleaned, as there are several heat exchangers in the system, one or all could be contributing to low water flow.

The transmission cooler is a bottleneck and easily inspected.
Click to expand...
That is our plan!

Strecker25 said:
are props identical and in the same shape on both sides? additional load could contribute to the elevated consumption, although an extra gallon/hr isn't too significant. I'd be curious if they come closer to equal as the RPMs rise once you sort out the overheat issue
Click to expand...
Identical, and in the same shape from last I heard.

Got the generator up and running! Super excited to have AC while underway and at Anchor.
 
Saverio said:
When you take the cover off is it just sea water? Or af also?
Thanks
Click to expand...
The side that has the raw water pump attached is just sea water the other side is both. However, you need to drain down anti freeze to remove either cap because the caps both hold the core in place.
 
Riptide III said:
The side that has the raw water pump attached is just sea water the other side is both. However, you need to drain down anti freeze to remove either cap because the caps both hold the core in place.
Click to expand...
Thanks
So if I want to check for pieces of an old impeller it would be there.
Thanks
Wow changed starboard impeller
Not fun at all lol
 
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