Powder Coating Props on BIII

[Dave S]

If that was the case, my "just spray it on" method of painting my lower would show tremendous "sand blasting". I cruise at anywhere from 30 - 50+ and run short term 60+ and have zero dulling at all.

It looks like it's the entire surface of the lower only which is odd. At speed, the whole lower isn't submerged completely. My guess is something to do with the way it was painted or prepped.

Jim

I think it may have more to do with the material ingrediants in the Zinc Chromate primer more than anything else. I believe there was some type of reaction caused possibly by the Mercathode or between the primer and the finish coat. After scratching my head on this one, that was the only conclusion I could come to so I decided not to use that primer this time. Instead, I just used just the regular Mercury grey primer instead. We'll just have to see if this dulls up as well. But ultimately, I am more concerned how the outdrive holds up to corrosion than about how shiny the paint is. I am determined to minimze or eliminate my corrosion. On my next haul out, if I am still battling corrosion, I am going to get a hold of Mercury. There has to be a way to deal with the corrosion problem on our lake. And after looking at other folks outdrives in the lake, I guess I should feel somewhat "fortunate" that mine is only lightly corroded compared to theirs. I have seen some really nasty looking outdrives. I think I may have to start taking pictures of some of these drives so I can show people what I mean.

 

[wickeral]

http://clubsearay.com/photoplog/index.php?u=402

Thank You! Very Sharp Critter! Al W.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Short update - in the November Motor Boating magazine they ran an article on a new product from Petitt - 'Prop-Koat' (I spelled it right). They did not address the galvanic corrosion issue, but the coating as the name implies is specifically for below waterline bare metal. Interseting they also noted an RPM pickup after coating. Before you run out to West Marine the stuff goes for $ 275 per 1 quart kit!

Henry

 

[Dave S]

Saw the same article Henry. That will be something else to try for me in the future if corrosion continues on my Bravo 3. :grin:

 

[Henry Boyd]

Dave,

Just a thought. You mentioned that a group of you were seeing excesive corrosion. You don't happen to keep your boat in a slip with dock power by any chance? If so that might be a source of stray electrical current. ALso with low water levels the water chemistry could be changing if the water loss is via evaporation and lack of recharging from rain.

Henry

 

[Dave S]

Henry

Everyone on our lake has this corrosion problem with B3 drives regardless of where they are slipped. It's a real head scratcher. Maybe we should blame it on the Nuclear Power plant. :wow:

Dave

 

[wickeral]

Henry

Everyone on our lake has this corrosion problem with B3 drives regardless of where they are slipped. It's a real head scratcher. Maybe we should blame it on the Nuclear Power plant. :wow:

Dave

Maybe you should. Are there any overhead wires crossing the Lake? Electro Magnetic Transmission from overhead wires is a known fact. In Theory, the Lake could be picking up these currents and running them straight into your boats. Al W.

 

[Dave S]

Maybe you should. Are there any overhead wires crossing the Lake? Electro Magnetic Transmission from overhead wires is a known fact. In Theory, the Lake could be picking up these currents and running them streight into your boats. Al W.

Electric Transmission wires cross our lake in quite a few places since we have a Nuclear Power plant, a coal fired plant and a hydro electric plant. I often wondered why my body had a tingling sensation after swimming in the lake. :wow:

 

[wickeral]

There Ya Go! Contact the Plant Engineers and ask for any Data they can offer. Also, pay no attention to thier denials that this is not a factor to your problem. I would definately be hanging a Gounded Anode over the side when the boat is in it's Slip. Al W.

 

[wingless]

Here is a picture of my outdrive I took last week after my emergency haul out because of low water.

All of this corrosion occured in five months time because I had refinished the drive at that time and it looked like this.

Here is a shot of the drive before I refinised it in May. The boat had been in the water for nine months then.

I have the additional Mercathode pucks on the transom as well which you can see.

Could the corrosion in front of the prop be caused by cavitation, due to the change in contour and the step decrease in diameter?

Maybe that could be improved by changing the forward prop hub to smooth the transition from the housing.

 

[fwebster]

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[keets]

My 2006 260 da has about the same amount of corrosion. Kinda drives me nuts. I boat in the river and all the bravo 3 are having problems????

 

[Searay Jim]

Of course the thread is a year and a half old...... :grin:

There's no hub to change on the props either. But it's obvious the anodes are eaten up. At least that what it looks like. I've never changed mine and I've had it since 2001. But I trailer and have never had any issues other than burning a hole in the rear prop. But it's a unique situation. :thumbsup:

 

[Dave S]

Of course the thread is a year and a half old...... :grin:

Hey Jim how have you been? Hows that super fast 240SD of yours doing these days?

As far as resurrecting this thread goes, just look who resurrected it. :smt119