Remote DC posts

Strecker25

Strecker25

Well-Known Member
SILVER Sponsor
Nov 20, 2014
4,923
Rochester, NY
Boat Info
2002 410DA
Engines
Caterpillar 350HP 3126
Hi all, looking for some safety (or other) input on something I'd like to add this summer

We use an electric pump for the dinghy, water toys, etc., and lifting the hatch to get DC is a PIA. I would like to add remote DC posts to the lazarette - why wouldn't this be a good idea?

I would use something like below - waterproof disconnect next to the posts so they are not always energized, covers for the posts, properly sized wire, fused near the batter/termnial I wire it into.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Char...151753&sprefix=remote+dc+posts,aps,89&sr=8-30

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Wate...151973&sprefix=remote+dc+posts,aps,89&sr=8-13
 
markrsimon said:
I would vote for a 12vdc connector of some sorts depending on how much current you need to draw. Assuming you need more than a 10amp cigarette lighter?

What about Anderson Powerpole (or even SB50) connectors?

Yes, you would need to replace the connector on each pump - but also helps ensures polarity.


https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-panel-mount-powerpole-black-dual


https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb50-panel-chassis-mount
Click to expand...

Yeah, I should have mentioned that - the dinghy pump is 13a

those are slick. I’d probably want to make a pigtail or some other connector so I could still use it with alligator clips for away from the boat but I like the look of those. Thanks!
 
71kmtgU3+4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg



Tthis co0mpaany also make a bulk head mout for the female connection that has a spring loaded cover over the business enf so it poses no risk when not being used:


81BXAh3GNiL._AC_SL1500_.jpg






Thesee items are common place in the welding and metal working industry and
i found them with a 2 minute search on Amazon.com. I'm not married to this source and just find their website an easy place to grab example photos.

Just think outside of the box and you will discover the best and safest way to handle your project.
 
Could also use an Anderson connector. They are polarity-sensitive and you could still use a switch (or breaker) to deactivate it when not in use.
 
Rather than adapt your boat to accommodate your pump, why not adapt your pump to accommodate your boat?

Here is something completely different to consider. You can pump up your dinghy multiple times on a single charge, in addition to all of your other water toys. I've been using this for a couple of years and am constantly amazed at how useful it is.
 
Thanks all, great ideas. I was also perusing amazon and there are lots of options. I was also making sure (through you folks) that I wasn’t missing any major safety items but I think we’re good as long as good wiring practice and common sense is followed.
 
Are you blowing the fuse or is the pump rated at 13A? The cigarette lighter at the helm is supposed to be protected by a 15A fuse. Not that cigarette lighter plugs are great for prolonged power supply near max rating, and running a DC extension cord wont help, but for blowing up a few toys should work OK. Now a dingy, yeah that might be a bit much.

No safety reason if you follow proper wire/electrical protocols. I like Franks solution is your willing to run proper DC to that location including properly sized wire and fuses. That could have an additional benefit if wired right of providing external power in case the batteries die and you need to get the hatch up. There was a thread about this recently.

The main DC panel in the engine room does have open slots for additional DC breakers lablesd "Accessories" so wiring really should be pretty easy.

I cant remember is you have an inverter, but since we do, I opted to do something along the lines as suggested by @bobeast, except, I opted to add a 110 outlet in the cockpit for this purpose. If I need power elsewhere, I carry an heavy duty extension cord.

Lots of options.
 
My boat has these. Energized all the time but have a door that closes over it

 
BLING!!!!

Just in case Stainless isnt your thing...

Capture.PNG
 
dtfeld said:
Are you blowing the fuse or is the pump rated at 13A? The cigarette lighter at the helm is supposed to be protected by a 15A fuse. Not that cigarette lighter plugs are great for prolonged power supply near max rating, and running a DC extension cord wont help, but for blowing up a few toys should work OK. Now a dingy, yeah that might be a bit much.

No safety reason if you follow proper wire/electrical protocols. I like Franks solution is your willing to run proper DC to that location including properly sized wire and fuses. That could have an additional benefit if wired right of providing external power in case the batteries die and you need to get the hatch up. There was a thread about this recently.

The main DC panel in the engine room does have open slots for additional DC breakers lablesd "Accessories" so wiring really should be pretty easy.

I cant remember is you have an inverter, but since we do, I opted to do something along the lines as suggested by @bobeast, except, I opted to add a 110 outlet in the cockpit for this purpose. If I need power elsewhere, I carry an heavy duty extension cord.

Lots of options.
Click to expand...

Yeah, its more of a convenience thing. We don't even need to add air to the dinghy often but its such a PIA when I do, and the pump cord is short

I do like the idea of wiring right into those accessory breakers
 
I use mine mainly to raise and lower the engine hatch after removing the batteries for winter. For some reason, unfortunately, I can't raise or lower the outdrive using this. That would help me out when dropping off at storage since I store with the outdrive down as far as I can comfortably go
 
I'd be the first guy to leave the post covers off, leave the switch on and somehow fry something...

Toy inflation, bug blowing, sand relocation....all in one :)
upload_2022-2-18_11-38-38.png
 
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