repairing screw holes in fiberglass

R

rizz3

New Member
Mar 7, 2007
10
Long Island, NY
I have a couple of screw holes where canvas snaps were pulled out of the fiberglass and the transom door hinge pulled off the fiberglass. Now the screw holes are enlarged. How can I fix this so I can put new screws in those holes?
 
rizz3 said:
I have a couple of screw holes where canvas snaps were pulled out of the fiberglass and the transom door hinge pulled off the fiberglass. Now the screw holes are enlarged. How can I fix this so I can put new screws in those holes?
Click to expand...

well if your just gonna put new screws in the existing holes do this..


West marine has a 2 part epoxy that you have to mix.. (its white) mix this and tape off the hole so you dont get a mess all over.. put it on the hole, let it dry for a like 10 hours than re drill... i used this when i had mounted my transducer on the stern of my boat.. you have to drill a bigger hole to get the plug through so i was stuck with a wire in a bigger hole... so i got this epoxy and it dried hard as a rock and not one bit of water gets in.. i also taped around it in a square so when i pulled the tape off (right after application while it was still wet) it wasnt a mess and looks prefessional!
 
If you can reach behind the panel, you can use 1/8" pop rivits with backing washers to just reattach the snap in the same spot and not fool with trying to use epoxy or resin.
 
Frank's idea is the way to go, but if you don't have access to the rear of the hole, try this:

Take the 2-part epoxy previously mentioned by cr0ck1. Tape around the hole as described, then put some mixed epoxy in the hole, but don't fill it with epoxy. Then take the snap/screw and put it into the hole so it fits square on the fiberglass. Epoxy will harden and hold it in. Remove the tape when the epoxy is a bit beyond tacky, and remove any excess on the screw/snap.

If you ever want to remove it, heat up the snap/screw with a soldering iron/gun until the epoxy lets go, then pull it out with a pair of pliers. It won't take much heat to get the epoxy to let go.
 
fwebster said:
If you can reach behind the panel, you can use 1/8" pop rivits with backing washers to just reattach the snap in the same spot and not fool with trying to use epoxy or resin.
Click to expand...


all he is doing is filling in the existing hole wiht epoxy so to look like it was never there.. than redrilling right through the hardened epoxy... you gotta fill in that big hole to make it more sturdy.. than re screw the door on!
 
rizz3 said:
I have a couple of screw holes where canvas snaps were pulled out of the fiberglass and the transom door hinge pulled off the fiberglass. Now the screw holes are enlarged. How can I fix this so I can put new screws in those holes?
Click to expand...

don't make too much job than is needed.
find scrap piece of teak or other hard wood, with knife or belt saw made few pieces size of wooden match (in worst case you can use wooden matches but they wont last too long)
dip them in 3M 5200 or 4200, stick in hole, cut flush with surface (using razor knife) and reinstall screws
after 5200 cures it should last forever

PS they make "special" snaps with bigger size screw just for those over-sized holes they use #10 screw instead #8
 
they have small anchors for snaps, they also have snaps with larger studs, #10 instead of #8.

for the door- if you can get to the back side of it, thru-bolt it with fender washers and be done with it.
 
RobF300 said:
they have small anchors for snaps, they also have snaps with larger studs, #10 instead of #8.

for the door- if you can get to the back side of it, thru-bolt it with fender washers and be done with it.
Click to expand...

I second this approach first. If this is not possible, I would probably go the Marine-Tex route (white epoxy mentioned before).
 
I've got these 2 holes from a stripped piece of hardware for the bimini top. From what I've read above, the best method is to use a 5200, put in the holes, then put the screws back in place. Am I on the right track?
 
I removed my teak grab rails from the bow .I have spectrum to finish the topcoat but what to use to fill the screw holes? Do they make an epoxy in a syringe, it would be great for filling these from the bottom up .
 
ziekman@cox.net said:
I've got these 2 holes from a stripped piece of hardware for the bimini top. From what I've read above, the best method is to use a 5200, put in the holes, then put the screws back in place. Am I on the right track?
Click to expand...

I tried just putting in 5200 but will not hold very well. Next time I'm going to put in some dowel (or toothpick in my case) and then put in 5200 then screw in the stud.. I think after it hardens it may be more secure.
 
No, if you read the entire thread the wall anchor method was not a good one. The holes look like they're going to need to hold some force. Epoxy fill it properly then re-drill and fasten with the appropriate hardware. Toothpicks and dowels will not last. They will get wet and not hold what the hardware will test it to do.
 
Nehalennia said:
No, if you read the entire thread the wall anchor method was not a good one. The holes look like they're going to need to hold some force. Epoxy fill it properly then re-drill and fasten with the appropriate hardware. Toothpicks and dowels will not last. They will get wet and not hold what the hardware will test it to do.
Click to expand...

+1 The best fix is a permanent fix.
Now is also a good time to get your HIN and contact Spectrum Color and get a gelcoat paste patch kit coming your way.

Henry
 
I have used the anchor method dozens of times, if your hole is HUGE and really beat up it wont work, if you have a loose snap it works.

If you dont want to do any finish work the best method for fixing mounting points is to try to get behind the area, rough it up, and add fiberglass. Then fill the hole from the outside with some gelcoat. 5200 and dowels wont work once that screw has a load on it . Or hire a professional and let them take care of it for you.

The last anchor method I used was on the mounting bracket of a 40 dancer canvas bow, and that has alot of stress on it, still holding 3 years later.
 
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