Replacing Dripless Seals

cfd95

cfd95

Active Member
Nov 5, 2013
410
Northport Long Island
Boat Info
2002 310 Sundancer
Engines
350 Horizons
V Drives
Boat is out of water for season.
I have to replace my Tides sure seals.
My port side was leaking.
It looks like these are the originals that came with the boat.
I have ZF Hurth V Drives
My question is how to remove the prop shaft.
I know the props have to come off.
I see the cotter pin and Locknut where the front of the shaft comes out on front of the transmission.
Ive read the service manual for the transmission and it doesn't contain any info for removing the shaft.
Any help much appreciated.
 
First, block the prop with a 2X4 against the hull, then remove the cotter pin and nut on the front of the coupler, next remove the prop, and, finally, use a shaft tool and a slide hammer to move the shaft back far enough to allow you to slip the seal housing off the front of the shaft.


Do not beat on the front end of the shaft!

You should also search CSR for seal change descriptions previously posted by others.
 
Thank you Frank for the quick response.
Is there a torque spec for the nut when reinstalling?
I did search the forum only ones that came up were for velvet transmissions.
 
Thin nut on first and tighten wrench tight then thick nut and also tighten wrench tight. I coat the shaft taper and key liberally with a copper based anti-seize before sliding the prop back on.
While you are that "deep" into it the cutless bearings are a good idea to change.
 
The torque spec for a 1-1/2" dia shaft with 1-1/8" threads is 250-275 ft lbs.

Once you pull the shaft back, actually changing the shaft seal is the same, no matter what transmission you have.
 
I replace my lip seal with the extra one that was on the shaft it's an original strong seal from 97 I cleaned up the shaft really well with some emery paper remove the old seal Pressed the new seal and not a drop of water has drip this entire season I will say that I had to make a jig to press the new seal and if you are interested in doing this procedure let me know and I will explain it further my other motor has the new sure seal which is only two seasons old and is dripping pretty steady when in gear but not in reverse not really sure about that I'm guessing I might have to replace the lip seal on that one but unfortunately it does not have an extra seal further out the shaft thinking maybe loosen up the assembly and slide it up the shaft half an inch to a clean section of the shaft I hope this helps


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joeyleggz said:
I replace my lip seal with the extra one that was on the shaft it's an original strong seal from 97 I cleaned up the shaft really well with some emery paper remove the old seal Pressed the new seal and not a drop of water has drip this entire season I will say that I had to make a jig to press the new seal and if you are interested in doing this procedure let me know and I will explain it further my other motor has the new sure seal which is only two seasons old and is dripping pretty steady when in gear but not in reverse not really sure about that I'm guessing I might have to replace the lip seal on that one but unfortunately it does not have an extra seal further out the shaft thinking maybe loosen up the assembly and slide it up the shaft half an inch to a clean section of the shaft I hope this helps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thank you for reply.
Unfortunately there is no spare seal on the shaft.
 
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