It is my understanding that this boat comes with an extra shaft seal on the shaft and all that all is necessary to fix a leaking seal is to cut off the working seal and slide the spare up in its place. Physically,I'm unable to get into position to see this. I have asked three people and have rec'd 5 answers. Some say pull the shaft some say no, and etc. Does anyone know?
Shaft seals 2002 38" Sundancer Gas
- Thread starter esteljeff
- Start date
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
Theoretically, it is possible to change the seals. The rub is going to be access. The old seal must be pried out, cut and removed from the shaft. The seal carrier must be separated, the new seal must be removed from the seal carrier, then new seal must be positioned against the seal bore, then carrier is reassembled and used as a driver to press the new lip seal in place. Even when you have good access, it is frequently difficult to hammer a seal into the bore without damaging the seal. Now figure you are standing on your head trying to get both hands and tools under the engine in a way where you can see what you are doing, and you see how difficult this becomes. If you don't have adequate room to get to it on the 380DA, then the boat has to be hauled and the shaft pulled back to access the seal.
I have a 450DA with a good bit more room that you do. I did this once and, honestly, it wasn't worth the effort and agony.
The truth of the matter, just replacing the lip seal usually does not give you a long term solution anyway. The Tides seal is a Delrin-like plastic running on the shaft and cooled by exhaust water. Its purpose is to hold the lip seal on the centerline of the shaft. If you have a seal failure, most likely (like near 100% of the time) it is because the seal body is worn. Replacing just the lip seal may buy you a couple of months, but the new seal will fail shortly. It is a better long term solution to replace the entire seal (parts are about $400 per side) even though that does require you to haul the boat, de-couple the shaft and pull it back to about the end of the shaft tube to remove the old seal and fit the new on on the shaft.
When I get a seal leak, I just wait until my next scheduled haul-out and do it then and I never replace just the lip seal......I replace the complete seal assy.
If this is on a boat you have not yet bought, point out the leaking seal to your surveyor and ask the seller to replace the seals as a part of the sale.
I don't know if this is answer #6 or a repeat of 1-5, but this one is right.
I have a 450DA with a good bit more room that you do. I did this once and, honestly, it wasn't worth the effort and agony.
The truth of the matter, just replacing the lip seal usually does not give you a long term solution anyway. The Tides seal is a Delrin-like plastic running on the shaft and cooled by exhaust water. Its purpose is to hold the lip seal on the centerline of the shaft. If you have a seal failure, most likely (like near 100% of the time) it is because the seal body is worn. Replacing just the lip seal may buy you a couple of months, but the new seal will fail shortly. It is a better long term solution to replace the entire seal (parts are about $400 per side) even though that does require you to haul the boat, de-couple the shaft and pull it back to about the end of the shaft tube to remove the old seal and fit the new on on the shaft.
When I get a seal leak, I just wait until my next scheduled haul-out and do it then and I never replace just the lip seal......I replace the complete seal assy.
If this is on a boat you have not yet bought, point out the leaking seal to your surveyor and ask the seller to replace the seals as a part of the sale.
I don't know if this is answer #6 or a repeat of 1-5, but this one is right.
Chris-380
Well-Known Member
