should I install shaft anodes?

my3sons

Well-Known Member
Feb 24, 2009
3,046
Western NY (Lake Erie)
Boat Info
2004 400DB, Onan 9 kw Generator, Highfield RIB,
Engines
Cummins 6CTA M-3
Let's hear a few opinions on shaft anodes for my 360 DA. Simply, should I put them on? It presently does not have them, they are not mentioned in the owners manual, but I have noticed that about a third of the express type power boats in the yard do have them. The boat will be put into L.I. Sound in about 3-4 weeks, we will spend a few weekends there shaking it down and then bring it back home by water at the end of May. So we are looking at 3-4 weeks in salt and then fresh water beyond that. This is our first boat that has inboards so I am not quite sure what to do, What do you think
 
For me, in salt - no. For you, in some salt but mostly fresh, definately not (opinion only). Search this site for same topic. They are known to work loose and slide down next to the cutlass bearings. This could cause a score (scratch mark) all the way around your shaft if it began to hang up on the cutlass. My dealer did not put them on my boat the first time I had the bottom paint done. They did the second time, and those slid down to the cutlass bearings. I took them off.
 
Thanks for the reply, John. There is a 320DA stored right next to mine which has them, so once I noticed that, then I started looking around at all the other boats and like I said, some do and some don't. I have heard the stories about them sliding down the shaft before. I think you are probably right about no in fresh water, I can not recall ever seeing them on a boat in our yards here in western NY. Take care
 
Had a big thing at my marina. SEARAY says a BIG NO to shaft zincs. Marina stood fast they are needed. I went with NO shaft zincs.

Rob
 
What Rob said. Sea Ray does not recommend anodes to attached to the shafts.
 
You're way better off to install a set of shaft brushes. This will give you protection for the props without the down side of shaft zincs, and your unlikely to need to change them out for at least 10 years.

img_1758_xga-0.jpg


Jacob
 
That's a neat idea! Is this a common thing?

Also.. your macerator seacock is open and the hose has cracks in it. :)
 
Would the 'score' on the shaft from the brush cause any issues?
 
That's a neat idea! Is this a common thing?

Also.. your macerator seacock is open and the hose has cracks in it. :)

Shaft brushes are quite popular in our area, for the reasons stated earlier. They pay for themselves in one year, given the price of 2.5 " shaft zincs.

The macerator hose will be changed out in the near future. It was open to allow clearance for installation of the shaft brushes.
 
shaft brushes are the way to go. as far as wear on the shaft it should only be a concern when you have dripless seals on the shaft, in which case you just have to extra carefull when replacing any components that slide onto shaft.
 
Why are brushes needed if the shafts are already bonded :smt017
 
Protection for the props....or shafts??:huh:

You're way better off to install a set of shaft brushes. This will give you protection for the props without the down side of shaft zincs, and your unlikely to need to change them out for at least 10 years.

img_1758_xga-0.jpg


Jacob
 
Ok, after reading the explaination I understand. It also explains my zincs are gone by the end of the season, being directly attached they go first, then the bonding system, takes over. Having the brush would cause a better metal on metal contact to the bonding system, makeing it to be more efficient. Eliminating the need for shaft zincs altogether.

So do you need to add heavier zincs to the transom?
 
Nobody's asked:
"What would Priceless do?"

Jacob,
You always have great pictures. I assume like many in Canada using the seacock for the macerator discharge is common and frequent.

I needed to use mine last season when we were full and I had my bilge shelf in the way. I'm altering that shelf to allow me to discharge in Canadian waters where it's legal and pump outs are few and far between.
 
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We have a 1989 38 Aft cabin with twin 454s. It had shaft anodes on it when we got it in 2005. Have replaced them each year. They have been corroded out each spring when they are replaced. We have put on 700 hours since 2006 and the anodes have never shifted. The shafts are not pitted. We run the boat at 1200 to 1800 RPM most of the time with the ocational 2600RPM for 2 to 5 hours on a long crossing. I have often wondered if they unbalance the shafts?
 
My boat has always had shaft zincs installed without problems. This is the first I have heard about the brushes. Another good reason for CSR.
Why would a properly installed shaft zinc move at all? They are a PITA to seat on the shaft.
 
As shaft zincs deteriorate over time from galvanic action, they lose their grip on the shaft. Sometimes, they slide down the shaft. Sometimes they fall off and hit the prop.

Shaft brushes are a way of never having to install shaft zincs again.
 
Makes sense to me. However, in the unlikely event your shaft seperates from the transmission, the zinc keeps from ripping the rudder out of the bottom of the boat. Maybe a Marelon collar would be of help for that.
 

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