Shower Sump Switch Failure

You guys with two sumps adjacent to each other. Have you ever thought of connecting the two tanks(tubs)? I was thinking if a small hose connecting the tubs allowing each to cover for the other if the switch fails in the off position?
 
Nehalennia said:
You guys with two sumps adjacent to each other. Have you ever thought of connecting the two tanks(tubs)? I was thinking if a small hose connecting the tubs allowing each to cover for the other if the switch fails in the off position?
Click to expand...

Depending on the relative heights, that may not be a bad idea.
 
I did give that some thought last year when I had my first failure. As you can see in the very first pic in this thread, there is an extra go-zinta on each sump box. You can easily use that port to connect both boxes so that if one were to overfill, it would spill over to the other. It might work for the ac condensate but I don't think the overflow on a shower would be able to keep up.
 
I don't know.....we need a fluids engineer.....gee....where can we find one around here????:smt017
 
Here's a better shot of both sump boxes....

P4101084.jpg


If it would work, that would be a coo:smt018..oops, I almost said a 'baaaaaaddddd word!!!.....:grin:
 
Even if it helps, it's better than having all of the overflow I guess, but I would think it would keep up if the same size or slightly larger hose.
 
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The size of the hose won't matter, because as you can see above, the size of the outlet/inlet is fixed. The shower drain is connected to the largest (middle) inlet....the big white hose all the way to the right on the box.
 
I'm curious why they didn't put a single but bigger sump box in like on my boat.

Maybe we should all design the "Club Sea Ray" super sump box with dual redundant pumps and a probe-based switch. That would be cool... and make millions... I'm sure the demand for the "super sump" will pay for my new boat.
 
Great post Dom, but what are those electronic modules mounted up on the stringer (one of which is unplugged on the box on the left)?

Two years ago I got sick of dealing with mine and I removed the entire works, box and all and replaced it with a brand new unit. From time to time I will use my shop vac to clean it out. I have not had any problems yet, but it sounds like eventually I will!
 
J Levine said:
......what are those electronic modules mounted up on the stringer (one of which is unplugged on the box on the left).....
Click to expand...

They are just water tight fulse holders that hold a blade fuse....each box has one. Pulling it was the only way to shut the damn pump off back in January. You can't just turn off the batteries. The sumps, like all the bilge pumps (I have three on the 410DA), are hard wired to the batteries.
 
My owner manual says to clean the shower sump monthly if it gets regular use. The problem on my boat is you can see it under the step to the salon, but unless you have gorilla arms you can not reach it. The work around for our boat is to place a piece of fiberglass window screen cut into a disc that fits into the floor drain of the shower. I unsrew the stainless drain and insert the screen and reinstall the drain. Soap scum and hair clog it up in about a month and I just remove and replace the screen. I also pour concentrated bilge cleaner down the drain once a week to keep the sump free of body oils. We've taken more than 500 showers and so far the pump still works. It appears to be clean, looking through the clear plastic lid. When it goes, I'll have to remove the stairs and disconnect some wiring to replace the pump. That will be about a two hour job. It used to take me 15 minutes to clean the sump on the 37--clearly a better engineering design.
 
here's one........ about a month ago I found my shower sump running dry,as it would not shut off...... removed cover and cleaned the sump and freed up the tule float switch..... all was well til yesterday, when the pump failed to start, and the backup emergency pump also failed........ caught this before water overflowed on to the carpeting.......... sump box pump will not start at all and emergency pump requires manual switch operation.......

sump box..... rule float switch and 800 gph pump
emergency...... attwood float switch and alarm with tsunami 1200 gph pump
sea ray 08 260DA
any suggestions or mods.... we run the ac most of the time...:smt100
 
First, my thanks to all who contributed to this extremely informative thread. I stumbled on it yesterday while researching an identical failure on my 260DA. A few things I can contribute:

1.) The newer model Rule pivoting float switch is NOT a direct drop in replacement for my original one. The screw tabs on the bottom are further apart, and the float is a bit longer. It will fit, but you can only use one screw and the clearance between the end of the float and the cylindrical strainer is very tight.

2.) The recommended replacement Whale checkvalve won't fit. It's a bit longer than the original one, and is designed to to have a hose slip over it rather than slipping over the discharge of the pump and the bung on the side of the sump like the original does. I just cleaned out my old one.

3.) A new 800 GPH pump and float switch with a couple of clamps ran me about $76 at West Marine.

4.) An entire new sump assembly which includes the more modern enclosed float switch retails for $125 plus tax at West, and they had it on the shelf. (yes, I'm cheap. Some hot water, soap and bleach and my old sump looks good as new)

I also have a reassembly tip that you might find helpful. Since these sumps are a universal fit with a six-hole flange on each side, unless you mark the holes when you remove the screws it's a b***h to align the flange with the holes when you reinstall it. This is made even more difficult by the fact that mine is located under the companionway stairs, long reach, limited access, etc. What I did was to break some toothpicks in half and stick a piece in each screwhole to act as an alignment guide. I then simply slid the sump down over the "pins" then removed them one at a time and reinstalled the screws.

I also trimmed back the flap of carpet that hangs into this space and acts like a wick to pull water onto the cabin carpet. Thanks also to whomever posted that tip, as I'm sure I read it here!

This weekend she gets a thorough carpet shampooing, and hopefully this issue is behind me for good!

Cheers,
 
Mr Salt said:
On Friday I had to replace the float switch in my gray water sump as well. This is the first switch I have had to replace in the 8 years I owned the boat. The switch had the same problem, it shorted out. I figured that while I clean the sump after each trip, I never got inside the switch cover and it was really crudded up. After I removed the crud it still was shorted. I didn't disassemble so I am not sure what made it fail, but it would seem to me their life is short.
Click to expand...

I also have issues with my switch and this is the second one that I have replaced since I owned the boat in 08'. The problem that I am having is that the switch just stops working. I replace the old one but kept it. After a week I came back to test the switch and it was working fine. When I orginally tested it it was in the 30 to 60 ohm range and after a week it was back down to .1(resistance in the leads). About 8 months later I am finding myself having to replace it.
 
The Bill Collector said:
132348_WIT_230-z_WPM.jpg

I replaced mine with this one......(sump box) $43.99

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/onli...ode+matchpartial+rel+Inactive/act/A03/Ntk/All

Bilge Pump Switch <LI type=square>Submersible Electronic Bilge Pump Switch
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Instead of an unreliable and short-lived mechanical float switch, the Water Witch Bilge Pump Switches 217 & 230 have no moving parts and require no adjustments. This eliminates the chance of your battery dying or your pump burning out because of a jammed-on float switch. Temperature, humidity or electrical noise will not affect this switch, nor will it interfere with other electronics. Even with a layer of oil or gasoline in the bilge, the pump will be activated once the level of fluid in the bilge rises to allow water to come in contact with the switch

Features:

<LI type=square>Switch activates pump when the exposed capacitance sensor element is continually exposed to liquid water for 6 to 8 seconds (in saltwater, only one sensor needs to be in contact with bilge water) <LI type=square>14 second end-of-cycle delay ensures bilge hose can drain completely without re-activating the pump <LI type=square>Mounting height of switch determines at what water level the pump is activated; usually mounted just above level of “backflow” water at end of pump cycle <LI type=square>Can be mounted at any angle, at any orientation <LI type=square>Can be used with 3-way panel switches (on-auto-off) <LI type=square>Dimensions: 2- 5/8"W x1- 5/8"H x 1- 5/8"D <LI type=square>7-year limited warranty
Click to expand...


It is still working fine.....
 
After my second sump unit got unreliable I decided to install a splashproof dual-throw switch inside the shower - which I've wired into the sump wiring to give me:

UP: Pump always on
CENTRE/OFF: Pump always off
DOWN: Pump on automatic (i.e via the float switch)

When I leave the boat I set the switch in the off position so it can't turn itself on and flatten my batteries. If I'm on the boat and the sump switch is working (which is -most- of the time, to be fair) I leave it on automatic. But if I have a shower and can't hear the drain pump after a short while I'll put the switch over to manual-on to make sure I don't flood the cabin out!
 
Not to be a salesman for West Marine, but I too had this problem. I changed the switch three times, and then was told about this switch with no moving parts. It has never failed me! I have had it in place for four years. WEST MARINE BilgePro Auto Water-Sensing Switch 7865637





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