Transmission shaft seal leak????

Pseudomind

Pseudomind

Active Member
Jul 1, 2008
2,122
Jacksonville, FL
Boat Info
2011 Hurricane with Magic Tilt Trailer
Engines
115 HP Yamaha Four Stroke
Transmission shaft seal leak???? Where the propeller shaft goes into transmission is there a seal up inside where the shaft fits in? Naturally this a place where one cannot see into. (Maybe bore scope purchase time...scratch chin...)

I have just noticed on my starboard engine on the bilge floor there has been a small splatter where fluid has dribbled down. I believe it is transmission fluid and it is coming from either the shaft entry or the seal which holds the outer backing assembly onto the transmission.

If it is leaking any ideas what the procedures are to fix?

Does the transmission have to be pulled.

Does the boat need to be pulled from the water, so shaft can be disconnected and then the seal replaced?

Thanks
 
I don't know how a bore scope is going to do anything for you in this situation. The seal assy is external to the gear case. It should be servicable from the outside if you have enough room in front of the v-drive to get tools to it and to get the coupler and seal cover off.

The coupler will have to be removed from the shaft and the shaft will need to be pulled back thru the transmission then the coupler part on the output shaft will have to come off. If the gear has to be removed, the shaft will need to be pulled back into the shaft log and the shaft seal removed. No, you can't do this in the water and the yard you use is going to need to be experienced with ZF transmissions.
 
Frank knows alot more about this stuff than I, but tranny seal failure on a boat your age seems premature. I know sh** happens, but I'd look a little further to see if something being "out" has contributed to the seal wear.
Any vibration from that side? Do your shaft seals hold up well? If you get it fixed and they haul the boat, take a good look at the cutlass bearing for uneven wear.
 
fwebster said:
I don't know how a bore scope is going to do anything for you in this situation...
Click to expand...

Thanks

What I want the scope for is to get a better look of where I cannot see. That is why this model seemed to be a bit interesting.

All I can currently do is see a few drops on the bilge floor, stick my hand under and up to where the shaft is going into the transmission and feel that there is some oil on it. But, if it is coming from somewhere else I cannot see or have no idea.
 
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fresh water said:
Mirror work?
Click to expand...

I tried and I could not see much of anything. I have purchased three different size mirrors from the Dollar store, some even have a flex handle I have tried these in conjunction with a flash light, but I cannot see much.

This has just happened as I have just had the boat out at the end of July for repainting the bottom. New shaft zinc's were also installed.

I can feel a couple of bolt heads and they do not "feel" loose? My finger tips get slightly wet with oil and at the moment, there are only a few drops on the bilge floor.

I am not wanting to purchase a bore scope to be just spending money, but from the looks of the one on the link, and the fact it can be connected to an outside video source. If I do get one it will probably be like this one, you can get the 72" probe one, and the LCD display will detach from the unit, besides the NTSC and PAl video out you can also use USB. I might just set up a laptop and go that route.

I am finding that on a boat there are many locations where a scope might be beneficial, for other then the most common uses.
 
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Sometimes you can rent bore scopes at auto parts stores such as auto zone. tehy rent them and many other tools for DIYers. Check if that works.
 
Not that it will make you feel any better, but my Port 630V has been dripping fluid since I bought the boat 6 years ago. The surveyer found it and I negotiated a reduction. I have a oil absorber mat under the trans that turns red by the end of each season. I change the fluid every other season and usually have to add a few ounces once during the 24 months to keep it on the full mark. One day when the trans or engine has to come out for some other issue I will replace the seals, but for now it ain't worth the trouble. The trans has about 900 hours on it and works perfectly, or at least it did until I wrote this and probably put a jinx on it.
 
J Levine said:
Not that it will make you feel any better, but my Port 630V has been dripping fluid since I bought the boat 6 years ago. The surveyer found it and I negotiated a reduction. I have a oil absorber mat under the trans that turns red by the end of each season. I change the fluid every other season and usually have to add a few ounces once during the 24 months to keep it on the full mark. One day when the trans or engine has to come out for some other issue I will replace the seals, but for now it ain't worth the trouble. The trans has about 900 hours on it and works perfectly, or at least it did until I wrote this and probably put a jinx on it.
Click to expand...

I can live with this, but I want to know, what it is, and where it is coming from. I have been monitoring the transmission fluid level and so far it is not really noticeable.

I am more concerned about it becoming a major leak while I am underway. Transmission fluid is very flammable the last I heard. I may be wong about this, but I like to do a bit of research even if some other folks think the question(s) are stupid.
 
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J Levine said:
Not that it will make you feel any better, but my Port 630V has been dripping fluid since I bought the boat 6 years ago. The surveyer found it and I negotiated a reduction. I have a oil absorber mat under the trans that turns red by the end of each season. I change the fluid every other season and usually have to add a few ounces once during the 24 months to keep it on the full mark. One day when the trans or engine has to come out for some other issue I will replace the seals, but for now it ain't worth the trouble. The trans has about 900 hours on it and works perfectly, or at least it did until I wrote this and probably put a jinx on it.
Click to expand...

That is EXACTLY what I would do ... I have a similar problem. Whenever the water temperature goes below 70F or so my SB side dripless seal leaks just a wee bit ... about a half a pint a day. As soon as the water temp goes over 75F or so it completely stops all summer and the bilge is bone dry.
There is still a spare seal in the container on the shaft (the port side shaft does not have a spare seal on the shaft so they maybe already did this one before I bought the boat) but I am not going to mess with this now. It's just not worth it.
 
Pseudomind said:
I can live with this, but I want to know, what it is, and where it is coming from. I have been monitoring the transmission fluid level and so far it is not really noticeable.

I am more concerned about it becoming a major leak while I am underway. Transmission fluid is very flammable the last I heard. I may be wong about this, but I like to do a bit of research even if some otehr folks think the question(s) are stupid.
Click to expand...

If you take a look at the parts break down for the transmission:

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...&bnbr=300&bdesc=TRANSMISSION+(V-DRIVE)(HURTH)

You can see the two large seals on either side of the hollow output shaft that the prop shaft goes through (#'s 8 &16) I will bet that one of these two seals is your problem. On mine it is the seal that faces backwards towards the engine.

Again this job is all about the labor not the parts.
 
J Levine said:
If you take a look at the parts break down for the transmission:

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=822049 92&ivar=images/CRUISER/822049.92/59.png&inbr=1620&bnbr=300&bdesc=TRANSMISSION+%28V%2DDRIVE%29%28HURTH%29

You can see the two large seals on either side of the hollow output shaft that the prop shaft goes through (#'s 8 &16) I will bet that one of these two seals is your problem. On mine it is the seal that faces backwards towards the engine.

Again this job is all about the labor not the parts.
Click to expand...


I think I have the same issue (Part # 8)and thanks :thumbsup: for the parts break down image.

I wonder what all is involved with eventually getting this changed. I know this may sound off the wall, but it might just be less expensive to replace the transmission.

I know when I was looking to buy a boat I was looking at a 340 with 8.1's and the owner had (supposedly) just replaced a transmission, he had it put in, a rebuilt for around $3500.00, as the story was related to me.

Any ideas or thoughts from others?

Thanks
 
Pseudomind said:
I think I have the same issue (Part # 8)and thanks :thumbsup: for the parts break down image.

I wonder what all is involved with eventually getting this changed. I know this may sound off the wall, but it might just be less expensive to replace the transmission.

I know when I was looking to buy a boat I was looking at a 340 with 8.1's and the owner had (supposedly) just replaced a transmission, he had it put in, a rebuilt for around $3500.00, as the story was related to me.

Any ideas or thoughts from others?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Merc ZF parts prices are crazy. Here is a seal kit for $73 bucks:

http://www.halemarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=100

Here is a rebuilt trans for $1600 for the same guy:

http://www.halemarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=270

You can get a new trans for about $2500

Again the issue on this one is LABOR...
 
J Levine said:
Merc ZF parts prices are crazy. Here is a seal kit for $73 bucks:

http://www.halemarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=100

Here is a rebuilt trans for $1600 for the same guy:

http://www.halemarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=270

You can get a new trans for about $2500

Again the issue on this one is LABOR...
Click to expand...

Thanks I am new with this to a degree, but if they must pull your boat, pull the transmission and then disassemble and reassemble it, which means probably other new items, seals and the time to tear transmission apart and rebuild/reassemble (Labor $85.00 per hour here, how many hours required for a rebuild?)). Now they still have to replace the transmission back into boat, and realign.

It might be less costly to just replace with a rebuilt transmission. I do not really know one way or the other? :huh:
 
I know how having something "not right" with the boat can bug you, but if you're only talking about a few drops here and there, and it's not pouring out the rear seal (does it get worse when running?), I'd just put a diaper under it and forget about it. Keeping a fresh diaper under it will also allow you to more accurately monitor how much is leaking, and it will be easier to tell if it gets worse.

Just not worth the expense to repair at this point- it's not doing any harm. My $.02
 
Check the warranty on any rebuilt transmission. Frequently, a rebuilder takes one apart, replaces only what is worn or broken then puts it back toether. What you are getting is a used transmission with a few new parts.

Fully rebuilt or remanufactured means new bearings, new seals, new clutches, new pump, etc. That sounds good, but the cost is within shouting distance of the cost of a new transmission, if you can even find one with the correct ratio.

As Jon says, the transmission is a small part of the picture. On most newer Sea Rays, the boat has to be hauled, the prop and shaft removed, the shaft seal removed, the cockpit seating, icemaker, refrigerator, etc removed, the deck unbolted and lifted off with a crane/travel lift, the engine may or may not have to be removed (depends on how much room there is between the bulkhead and the transmission).........only then can you begin to remove and replace the transmission.

R & R the transmission in 2 hours, but it'll take 2 men 2-3 days to get to where that can be done. When you are done, you go the other way and spend another 4-6 man-days putting the boat back together.

Big job....big money........buy diapers.
 
Okay Thanks you two, now I am able to see the overall big picture better.

And I would be willing to bet I am not the only one who has learned something from my questions in this thread.
 
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