What are WINTERIZING costs in your area?

Stee6043 said:
That said, when I see my diesel boat neighbors hauling their oil in/out of the boat in multiple 5 gallon pails I find it hard to believe they'd be within $10 of my total cost. But I have no data to back that up...
Click to expand...

To change oil in both engines and gen
2 five gallon buckets + 1gl = $200
3 filters = $75
4 beers = $3
Total = $278
 
My cost to winterize is as follows:

11 Gallons of 15W40 Shell Rotella T4 @ $13/gallon: $143
2 LF9009 Filters: $75
1 Genny Oil Filter: $13
30 Gallons of -50 Pink Anti-freeze (no alcohol) $206
Oil Analyses: $30/each: $90
Miscellaneous Desiccants: $30 (est)
Diesel Stabilizer: $30

Total: $587

Not included are the cost of the fuel/water separators (Racors) and Secondary/On-engine fuel filters which are changed in the Spring. Also, I purchased an air compressor a few years back for $250 at Lowes and use it to blow out the freshwater system. I also purchased a Sea Flush for a bit over $100 which I use to winterize the engines and generator.

Post #3 lists actual, published costs provided by a reputable Marina. When they perform the work, they take on the liability of having done it correctly. Sort of like an insurance policy. I was taught by a very compitent Captain how to winterize and I follow his outline. I am comfortable performing my own work, and as you can see, I save about $3500/year doing the work myself. Well, I actually have a buddy that helps so it goes quickly. Then we celebrate by having a nice dinner. So, technically, I have to add another $150 for the meal, so I guess my "real costs" is $737 per year.

Also, I don't change the gear oil in my V-Drives every year. When I do, it adds two gallons of Shell Rotella T4 30W oil to the calculation. Say, another $30.

Did y'all read that thread about "over analyzing" things on our boats? :D

Jaybeaux
Saving winterization money since November 2016.
 
Jaybeaux said:
My cost to winterize is as follows:

11 Gallons of 15W40 Shell Rotella T4 @ $13/gallon: $143
2 LF9009 Filters: $75
1 Genny Oil Filter: $13
30 Gallons of -50 Pink Anti-freeze (no alcohol) $206
Oil Analyses: $30/each: $90
Miscellaneous Desiccants: $30 (est)
Diesel Stabilizer: $30

Total: $587

Not included are the cost of the fuel/water separators (Racors) and Secondary/On-engine fuel filters which are changed in the Spring. Also, I purchased an air compressor a few years back for $250 at Lowes and use it to blow out the freshwater system. I also purchased a Sea Flush for a bit over $100 which I use to winterize the engines and generator.

Post #3 lists actual, published costs provided by a reputable Marina. When they perform the work, they take on the liability of having done it correctly. Sort of like an insurance policy. I was taught by a very compitent Captain how to winterize and I follow his outline. I am comfortable performing my own work, and as you can see, I save about $3500/year doing the work myself. Well, I actually have a buddy that helps so it goes quickly. Then we celebrate by having a nice dinner. So, technically, I have to add another $150 for the meal, so I guess my "real costs" is $737 per year.

Also, I don't change the gear oil in my V-Drives every year. When I do, it adds two gallons of Shell Rotella T4 30W oil to the calculation. Say, another $30.

Did y'all read that thread about "over analyzing" things on our boats? :D

Jaybeaux
Saving winterization money since November 2016.
Click to expand...
What’s it cost to winter store outside plus shrink if you do that?
 
Blueone said:
What’s it cost to winter store outside plus shrink if you do that?
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Store outside in the slip or on the hard?

Shrink wrapping: Boats over 35' are $27/ft. Colored hulls are an additional $3/foot.

Storing on the hard is $10/foot/Month with a 5 month minimum.
Towing from and to the slip is $75 each trip.
Power Washing Bottom: $5/foot
Travel Lift: $8/foot (each way, so times two)
Blocking: $3/foot

My cost last year to be on the hard, no shrink wrap: $3,480

Expensive lesson.
 
Jaybeaux said:
Store outside in the slip or on the hard?

Shrink wrapping: Boats over 35' are $27/ft. Colored hulls are an additional $3/foot.

Storing on the hard is $10/foot/Month with a 5 month minimum.
Towing from and to the slip is $75 each trip.
Power Washing Bottom: $5/foot
Travel Lift: $8/foot (each way, so times two)
Blocking: $3/foot

My cost last year to be on the hard, no shrink wrap: $3,480

Expensive lesson.
Click to expand...
I am trying a new place this year…. Indoor heated in a new building 45’ x 14’ x $3.99 = $2500. And 24 access… hard to believe but so looking forward to it. includes haul out and power wash and launch. The boat has to be trailered a couple miles but it’s done that before
 
Blueone said:
I am trying a new place this year…. Indoor heated in a new building 45’ x 14’ x $3.99 = $2500. And 24 access… hard to believe but so looking forward to it. includes haul out and power wash and launch. The boat has to be trailered a couple miles but it’s done that before
Click to expand...
Dang, that’s a great price for indoor heated.
 
Blueone said:
I am trying a new place this year…. Indoor heated in a new building 45’ x 14’ x $3.99 = $2500. And 24 access… hard to believe but so looking forward to it. includes haul out and power wash and launch. The boat has to be trailered a couple miles but it’s done that before
Click to expand...

That's a great price. I pay almost that for indoor frozen. I can come and go anytime I want.
 
SeaNile said:
Woa, if it cost me $4000+ to winterize a boat (not including oil changes, etc.) I wouldn't have a boat!
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No kidding! I bought my pink today, $202 and that includes enough to do out 5th wheel as well. It takes my wife and I one day to winterize all the systems on the boat. Used to be able to do it in less but now we're retired, we take longer to do everything....because we can:)
 
Jaybeaux said:
My cost to winterize is as follows:

11 Gallons of 15W40 Shell Rotella T4 @ $13/gallon: $143
2 LF9009 Filters: $75
1 Genny Oil Filter: $13
30 Gallons of -50 Pink Anti-freeze (no alcohol) $206
Oil Analyses: $30/each: $90
Miscellaneous Desiccants: $30 (est)
Diesel Stabilizer: $30

Total: $587

Not included are the cost of the fuel/water separators (Racors) and Secondary/On-engine fuel filters which are changed in the Spring. Also, I purchased an air compressor a few years back for $250 at Lowes and use it to blow out the freshwater system. I also purchased a Sea Flush for a bit over $100 which I use to winterize the engines and generator.

Post #3 lists actual, published costs provided by a reputable Marina. When they perform the work, they take on the liability of having done it correctly. Sort of like an insurance policy. I was taught by a very compitent Captain how to winterize and I follow his outline. I am comfortable performing my own work, and as you can see, I save about $3500/year doing the work myself. Well, I actually have a buddy that helps so it goes quickly. Then we celebrate by having a nice dinner. So, technically, I have to add another $150 for the meal, so I guess my "real costs" is $737 per year.

Also, I don't change the gear oil in my V-Drives every year. When I do, it adds two gallons of Shell Rotella T4 30W oil to the calculation. Say, another $30.

Did y'all read that thread about "over analyzing" things on our boats? :D

Jaybeaux
Saving winterization money since November 2016.
Click to expand...


Now that's more like it!!
 
Oil, filters and antifreeze maybe $300 total.

Haul, shrink wrap and store is $1300.

Some of these numbers are crazy. The itemization of the fresh water system in particular kills me. I have one head, three sinks and a water heater. It takes me 15 minutes to blow it out and pump a gallon of AF through.

AC takes another gallon and another 15 minutes.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Just a heads up, Thornton, with a '97 V8, there are also drain plugs on each side of the engine block. The block will not drain w/o removing those plugs. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to "bump" the engine a couple times after removing the sea water pump hoses - just to ensure that no water remains in the housing. And, of course, it's NEVER a bad idea to get some fogging fluid into the cylinders for extended layups to better protect against corrosion.

Non-Tox AF is another "best practice" thing to add to the engine/manifolds to help protect against interior corrosion and fully ensure there's no trapped water anywhere. It's by no means imperative to do that as the corrosion would be minimal -- but it certainly can't hurt to do it, either.
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Thanks. It actually has the half closed cooling system. Nov-Jan it will usually dip to -10-15c in these parts. The er is always dry though. I usually stick a heater in it for a couple days if it is going to be sitting for very long to make sure it is and store it in the shop during the winter. I did have some ice take out an impeller once dipping it in the freezing temps. Thought it was from a low spot in the suction hose or drive but like your idea of bumping the engine. May quite easily of been that. I have since been preheating the er with a heater the night before heading out in freezing temps as well now.
Going to be building a new engine this winter for it and will be going full closed with it's manifolds.
 
Just finished my 1st season winterizing 330DA, WOW!! Going from single 28' to a twin vdrive 38' + genny takes a bit more time and planning given the single electric engine hatch. Sure wish it was a twin hatch that would help a lot.

I used a SeaFlusher on all the systems. It worked well (I hope). Anyone have Pros' Con's?
 
MoonRiver said:
Just finished my 1st season winterizing 330DA, WOW!! Going from single 28' to a twin vdrive 38' + genny takes a bit more time and planning given the single electric engine hatch. Sure wish it was a twin hatch that would help a lot.

I used a SeaFlusher on all the systems. It worked well (I hope). Anyone have Pros' Con's?
Click to expand...
Sea Flush is your friend. In the Mid-Atlantic region (not too cold), using -50 Deg F Antifreeze, never had a problem.

Jaybeaux
 
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