40 sedan bridge forum

I replaced mine a few years ago. Pretty straight forward, IIRC. Remove the screws holding the panel and patiently fidget with it until you can get it out far enough to unhook the water line.

I have replaced on a 44DB and a 420DB and this is exactly correct. While you have it off, look at all fittings and connections and update. When you put it all back together, if something leaks, you have to pull it all back out...ask me how I know...I did have to cut the hole larger to accept the new valve.

Bennett
 
i just got done replacing my starboard side Cat 3116 and it was remarkably easy (all things considered). The sliding glass doors need to come out as well at the stbd side couch. Remove the gas struts that hold the floor in the up position and the door will open all the way to the wall. Also, remove the cockpit seat against the transom for the most clearance. I then used a sliding rotator truck with a telescoping boom to lift the engine out. The exhaust elbow needs to come off before you hoist or install the engine. I also removed the transmission before the hoist. There were several inches top and bottom. Pic attached.
This is epic, thanks for posting. Glad to know it’s possible without cutting and slicing. What happened to the old 3116 failure wise and how many hours. What new stuff was needed, e.g mounts. You can probably sense I want the whole story bit by bit but I understand we all have lives aside from posting here
 
On the faucet, remove the stems and replace the washers and o-rings.
On the water heater, you will have to determine if it’s coming from behind it and running under it or if it’s leaking. After you stop the faucet leak, you will be able to tell if the water heater is leaking if the water pump cycles on occasionally.
One at a time. Good luck.

I replaced the stems. Wasn’t easy to find both hot and cold. Had to get them from Ferguson. Solved that issue. Water pumps NOT kicking on so no leaks.

Turned on HW heater and ran the taps for a good 5 minutes. No water seeping out around it…

So now why would I have water around my heater? Is it possible while underway the relief valve popped open? Doesn’t coolant run to the heater so you have hot water while underway? I know I do but don’t see any special lines going to or from…..
 
Hey Capt’s! My Westerbeke lost power to the boat and I had to buy a new generator. (I could’ve sent it to get repaired but due to parts I had no idea on when I would get it back.) I wanted to let you all know that I went with the Phasor 8.5KW and this thing ROCKS! Super quiet and efficient!

I also purchased all new interior lumitec lights that have white, dim white, red and blue. The red ones seem to keep the bugs away at night as well. I can’t believe how clear the lights look on each color.

That looks pretty pretty prettttttay cool!

can you share which ones exactly you ordered? I’ve always wanted to change the outside and bridge lights to changing colored ones. I also want to swap the nav lights to led. Thanks!
 
I replaced the stems. Wasn’t easy to find both hot and cold. Had to get them from Ferguson. Solved that issue. Water pumps NOT kicking on so no leaks.

Turned on HW heater and ran the taps for a good 5 minutes. No water seeping out around it…

So now why would I have water around my heater? Is it possible while underway the relief valve popped open? Doesn’t coolant run to the heater so you have hot water while underway? I know I do but don’t see any special lines going to or from…..
It is possible the relief valve opened, but on the 400 db’s I’ve been on, the relief valves are plumbed to a thru hull so the water goes overboard. That said you could have a bad relief valve seal at the toggle stem that leaks water out or some grit under the seal that is causing it to leak, but I would think you would notice that and it would cause the pump to cycle when enough leaked out to drop the pressure in the system unless it just leaks out under the higher pressure of the expanding heating water. If the water heater is hooked up to the coolant system, there would be two heater hoses hooked up to the front of the water heater that go to one of the motors.
 
ZZ13
I know this is an old post but I am trying to re-seal my 2002 Sedan Bridge Windshield and need to find this trim. Do you have the model # on the trim. I thought an older post said it was from Taylor Made but they could not tell me which model was used in these boats.
Thanks for the detailed instructions in the post.


There was a separate thread on this but I can't find it as easy with the new forum software, so I will put it here. I finally got around to resealing the three windows of my windshield. I used the following steps after buying 55' of the trim.

1. Pull off old trim
2. Clean and surgically reseal where needed. Note that the old sealant is very dry and crumbly. You can get carried away cleaning out more of the old stuff than you need to
3. Install new seal. It was easy to push in once I figured it out. Push the top edge of the insert into the channel then push down and in to roll the bottom edge of the insert into the channel.
4. Run sealant under and then over each joined edge.
5. Run sealant under the edge of the trim to glue it to the window. This will help prevent the shrinking (I hope).

I used OSI Quad Max sealant in black.

I have a bunch of pictures on my phone and on the Cloud to upload but I have no idea how to get a picture into a thread with this new website software. I used to be able to just drop them in.
 
Hi, I was just changing my Westerbeke 8kw diesel anode out today. When I pulled the old one out, what ever was left of the old anode fell into the exchanger. I am not sure if I need to worry about this piece of anode getting pulled into the impeller or anywhere else. Do I need to pull the end cover of the cooler and fish this out? Thanks, Greg
 
That looks pretty pretty prettttttay cool!

can you share which ones exactly you ordered? I’ve always wanted to change the outside and bridge lights to changing colored ones. I also want to swap the nav lights to led. Thanks!

Thank you! I used these for the interior, bridge, stairs and arch!

My next project I want to get white led lights for the engine room. Have any of you guys gone down this road?
 

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For those of you with the factory 12v receptacle in the salon, the fuse is 15a and is located on the back of the power panel right in the center. It’s a black single fuse holder with “12v receptacle” written on it. I blew mine yesterday and had to go hunting for it.
3CC94BF1-0DD0-4369-85C6-396E70E74843.jpeg
 
For those of you with the factory 12v receptacle in the salon, the fuse is 15a and is located on the back of the power panel right in the center. It’s a black single fuse holder with “12v receptacle” written on it. I blew mine yesterday and had to go hunting for it.
View attachment 133083

Yikes! I went on a similar treasure hunt when I blew the fuse for my smoke alarms.
 
For those of you with the factory 12v receptacle in the salon, the fuse is 15a and is located on the back of the power panel right in the center. It’s a black single fuse holder with “12v receptacle” written on it. I blew mine yesterday and had to go hunting for it.
View attachment 133083

I had to find that fuse when I put this sucker in.
I got really tired of having limited DC power.
This also displays house power voltage when you are in the cabin without opening the panel to check.
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Cha...c1f-8766-339be745ffdb&pd_rd_i=B09JCNJGZ3&th=1
 
Hi, I was just changing my Westerbeke 8kw diesel anode out today. When I pulled the old one out, what ever was left of the old anode fell into the exchanger. I am not sure if I need to worry about this piece of anode getting pulled into the impeller or anywhere else. Do I need to pull the end cover of the cooler and fish this out? Thanks, Greg
Anybody have this issue?
 
Hi. Are there any other companies that do extended swim platforms other than swimplatforms.com???

i got a quote from them. 4200 for the platform and 2200 for crating and shipping to Ct. and I don’t think I love the platform. I think it looks even less beam length than the stock one.

Curious to see if anyone has this one installed or if there are other companies out there.

Here’s what they sent me as a photo:
upload_2022-8-31_22-11-22.jpeg
 
Yes take off the end cover as there may be lots of little zinc bits that clog up. Easy to do and you can often reuse the rubber gasket. Changing the zincs more freguently usually prevents the problem.
Thanks Larry, I will give that a try. Greg
 
Hi. Are there any other companies that do extended swim platforms other than swimplatforms.com???

i got a quote from them. 4200 for the platform and 2200 for crating and shipping to Ct. and I don’t think I love the platform. I think it looks even less beam length than the stock one.

Curious to see if anyone has this one installed or if there are other companies out there.

Here’s what they sent me as a photo:
View attachment 133105

Yes and no. There is another manufacturer (whose name escapes me at the moment, but I can look it up if you really want me to) Their’s was a little bit wider, but the platform itself was not as robust as this one. Plus, I really didn’t like the way it attached to the transom, nor did I think the attachment to the platform itself was structurally sound. What I found in my research was that a lot of the aftermarket platforms into the transform using big lag screws. They do not bolt through the transom to a backing plate on the inside with locking nuts. Anyone that has ever tried to screw into plaster or drywall will recognize that this is a horrible way to attach a swim platform. But you’re in a tough spot because the stock platform is too narrow, too shallow, and too low to the water. We went to the Annapolis boat show last year and found the Florida Bow Thrusters’ booth there. They had the molds for the platform for the 400 because they were the company that did the installs of the hydraulic platforms at the sea ray factory when these boats were built. That expertise was huge for me because it’s not an easy install. I got a “show special” which was still much higher than the pricing you were talking about for a fixed platform (even if you factor in professional installation) . But I would not have been happy with one of those aftermarket fixed platforms.

We are thrilled with our hydraulic platform. Not only is much larger and higher, But we get the added benefit of being able to launch and retrieve the dinghy so much more easily. So to answer the next question: yes, it was worth the $$$.

81864D6F-5221-45F6-A89B-C7CC5394590E.jpeg
 
Yes and no. There is another manufacturer (whose name escapes me at the moment, but I can look it up if you really want me to) Their’s was a little bit wider, but the platform itself was not as robust as this one. Plus, I really didn’t like the way it attached to the transom, nor did I think the attachment to the platform itself was structurally sound. What I found in my research was that a lot of the aftermarket platforms into the transform using big lag screws. They do not bolt through the transom to a backing plate on the inside with locking nuts. Anyone that has ever tried to screw into plaster or drywall will recognize that this is a horrible way to attach a swim platform. But you’re in a tough spot because the stock platform is too narrow, too shallow, and too low to the water. We went to the Annapolis boat show last year and found the Florida Bow Thrusters’ booth there. They had the molds for the platform for the 400 because they were the company that did the installs of the hydraulic platforms at the sea ray factory when these boats were built. That expertise was huge for me because it’s not an easy install. I got a “show special” which was still much higher than the pricing you were talking about for a fixed platform (even if you factor in professional installation) . But I would not have been happy with one of those aftermarket fixed platforms.

We are thrilled with our hydraulic platform. Not only is much larger and higher, But we get the added benefit of being able to launch and retrieve the dinghy so much more easily. So to answer the next question: yes, it was worth the $$$.


thanks for the info. Yeah, I’d love the hydraulic platform, but I also know they cost tens of thousands of dollars. That would not be an admiral-approved purchase, unfortunately. Water got into my current platform and it’s a bit spongy in 1 spot and when I put the dingy on it it looks like this. No bueno. So I’m in a tough spot here.

upload_2022-9-1_12-53-51.jpeg
upload_2022-9-1_12-53-51.jpeg
 
thanks for the info. Yeah, I’d love the hydraulic platform, but I also know they cost tens of thousands of dollars. That would not be an admiral-approved purchase, unfortunately. Water got into my current platform and it’s a bit spongy in 1 spot and when I put the dingy on it it looks like this. No bueno. So I’m in a tough spot here.

View attachment 133129View attachment 133130

That would concern me more than a little bit. It appears to be more than a little spongy. Peronally I wouldn't feel safe hauling my dinghy on that with the bouncing of waves and water getting inside it adding more weight.
I removed my old platform (a 340 Sundancer) and had it reglassed from underneath and it was a helluva job. I helped remove it and the guy did it over the winter and I think it was still $3000. You may find someone who can reglass it on the boat but it would require a big facility.
 

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