410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

[Strecker25]

I had my floors done last season. Two issues that I need to fix:
1) How did you address the height of the hatch after removing the carpet? The installer used slices of peel and stick floor tiles to build it up to the height of the floor. IMO not the best solution.
2) I did not use any trim and the gap is about 1/8 around. Looks great but the problem is the hatches "float" around in the hole. After running I have zero gap in back and 1/4" on the other side. I thought I could fix the floating issue by adding blocks on the underside of the hatch to center it but I took a closer look and I don't think that will work.

I built mine up with plywood, 5/8” if I remember correctly. I used Ss tile edging to trim our hatches. I like the look a lot but need to secure the trim as it’s just pressed on the edge and moves around sometimes, leaving a gap at the corner.

this picture was before I added the pulls.

 

[Carver370]

I was recently on a boat that someone had redone the flooring. They used a similar tile edging like Strecker25 did but had thin strips of stick on felt lining the sides of the edging which kept them centered in the hatch opening.

It was a pretty tight fit, but it works and looked good.

 

[Sgrochow]

For the hatch trim, I used maple strips, ripped on a table saw because I don't have a planer. Went slow with a new blade. Stained and sealed with poly. Strips are not attached to the hatch covers, they are screwed into the sides of the openings. Pics before I reinstalled the pull.

 

[exsailer]

I had my floors done last season. Two issues that I need to fix:
1) How did you address the height of the hatch after removing the carpet? The installer used slices of peel and stick floor tiles to build it up to the height of the floor. IMO not the best solution.
2) I did not use any trim and the gap is about 1/8 around. Looks great but the problem is the hatches "float" around in the hole. After running I have zero gap in back and 1/4" on the other side. I thought I could fix the floating issue by adding blocks on the underside of the hatch to center it but I took a closer look and I don't think that will work.

I am in the process(getting quotes) getting salon floors done on my 40 sundancer da I see 3 approaches. 1-leave carpet in place on vertical areas 2-some kind rubber seal material or 3-some kind of frame. There is one more approach with those with a table saw and good skill. You could make wood shim stock and glue to the vertical sections. I can imagine this being a measurement and sanding PIA

 

[Riptide III]

I am in the process(getting quotes) getting salon floors done on my 40 sundancer da I see 3 approaches. 1-leave carpet in place on vertical areas 2-some kind rubber seal material or 3-some kind of frame. There is one more approach with those with a table saw and good skill. You could make wood shim stock and glue to the vertical sections. I can imagine this being a measurement and sanding PIA

You could mix up some golf ball size clumps of bond. Place them on the lip. Wrap the hatch in plastic wrap and place it on the bonds clumps and push until level with floor. The plastic will act as a release agent.

 

[K-DUB]

I have a friend looking at 2006 40 Sundancer. Would anyone know a ballpark cost to have cockpit air added? Searay service is not answering phones. Guessing it’s a busy time for them. thanks.

 

[ttmott]

I have a friend looking at 2006 40 Sundancer. Would anyone know a ballpark cost to have cockpit air added? Searay service is not answering phones. Guessing it’s a busy time for them. thanks.

I had to have the 27K BTU Dometic unit and raw water pump replaced for the bridge HVAC - Right about $7K. So, I'd say your friend is looking more towards $11 to $13K for a complete install of a similar setup. Electrical, thru-hull, plumbing, controls and finding/modifying a location for the unit.
The question to be answered is can the boat's electrical system support?

 

[dtfeld]

I have a friend looking at 2006 40 Sundancer. Would anyone know a ballpark cost to have cockpit air added? Searay service is not answering phones. Guessing it’s a busy time for them. thanks.

He’s going to need a pretty big AC unit at least 16 kBtu, a circuit breaker and AC wire, the ducting and likely a complete thru hull/strainer/pump system. Might be able to get away with the existing thru hull and just upgrade to a larger pump. But for a budget here is my SWAG…

AC unit $4k
AC wiring and breaker $250
Ducting $500
Raw Water system $1k
Haul out blocking $1k
16 man hours labor @200/hr. $3200

$10k-$11k by the time it’s all done. If he’s handy, might be able to DIY it for about $6k-$7k.

 

[K-DUB]

I had to have the 27K BTU Dometic unit and raw water pump replaced for the bridge HVAC - Right about $7K. So, I'd say your friend is looking more towards $11 to $13K for a complete install of a similar setup. Electrical, thru-hull, plumbing, controls and finding/modifying a location for the unit.
The question to be answered is can the boat's electrical system support?

Thank you for the feedback. It will be very helpful. It was an option on that boat, so there is space and perhaps pre wiring?

 

[K-DUB]

He’s going to need a pretty big AC unit at least 16 kBtu, a circuit breaker and AC wire, the ducting and likely a complete thru hull/strainer/pump system. Might be able to get away with the existing thru hull and just upgrade to a larger pump. But for a budget here is my SWAG…

AC unit $4k
AC wiring and breaker $250
Ducting $500
Raw Water system $1k
Haul out blocking $1k
16 man hours labor @200/hr. $3200

$10k-$11k by the time it’s all done. If he’s handy, might be able to DIY it for about $6k-$7k.

That’s a great breakdown. Thank you for the help!

 

[ttmott]

He’s going to need a pretty big AC unit at least 16 kBtu, a circuit breaker and AC wire, the ducting and likely a complete thru hull/strainer/pump system. Might be able to get away with the existing thru hull and just upgrade to a larger pump. But for a budget here is my SWAG…

AC unit $4k
AC wiring and breaker $250
Ducting $500
Raw Water system $1k
Haul out blocking $1k
16 man hours labor @200/hr. $3200

$10k-$11k by the time it’s all done. If he’s handy, might be able to DIY it for about $6k-$7k.

Do you think a 16K BTU system will cool that greenhouse? 2006 is a hardtop but still a lot of cubic feet.... The 27K system on my boat just takes the edge off and some of the humidity out here in the Fl summer.

 

[We☠️Do]

Repaired the underwater exhaust tubes before launch this year. I have been trying to track down water in the bilge and finally discovered it was coming from the exhaust where it is attached to the hull. Before and after pics attached.

Follow up picture. Boat is floating and bilge is 100% dry!

 

[Strecker25]

Follow up picture. Boat is floating and bilge is 100% dry!View attachment 142932

gotta love that. Well done

 

[dtfeld]

Do you think a 16K BTU system will cool that greenhouse? 2006 is a hardtop but still a lot of cubic feet.... The 27K system on my boat just takes the edge off and some of the humidity out here in the Fl summer.

I think I have a older 16 kBTU or 18 kBTU in my cock pit and it draws 11A-13A and so it a good bit of the available power on a 30A circuit. However, I use it mostly for heat in the fall and it makes the cockpit with the camper canvas up pretty comfortable. I've used the AC in the summer and it does OK.

But the limiting factor is the AC electrical side. To get over this size AC, you'll need 230VAC which I doubt that boat has. Additionally, you'll need some bigger or additional ducting to handle the additional air and fitting that in will be hard as well.

 

[exsailer]

I have a friend looking at 2006 40 Sundancer. Would anyone know a ballpark cost to have cockpit air added? Searay service is not answering phones. Guessing it’s a busy time for them. thanks.

I have the exact boat with cockpit ac. Save your money will not cool when you want.
Maybe heat reverse cycle might be something to consider but cooling never.

 

[exsailer]

Question. My boat a 2006 40 dancer ec with twin qsb5.9 and 4 group 31 batteries on the port side shelf near bulkhead.
I need to replace batteries. Please tell dont tell me I have to take out the exhaust tube.
Thank you.

 

[dtfeld]

Question. My boat a 2006 40 dancer ec with twin qsb5.9 and 4 group 31 batteries on the port side shelf near bulkhead.
I need to replace batteries. Please tell dont tell me I have to take out the exhaust tube.
Thank you.

You can get the batteries out without removing the tube, but I think it much easier to remove it. The trick is getting the rubber hoses good and hot with a heat gun, then they let loose pretty easily, and a little soapy water makes them go back easily. 10 minute job each way.

 

[exsailer]

You can get the batteries out without removing the tube, but I think it much easier to remove it. The trick is getting the rubber hoses good and hot with a heat gun, then they let loose pretty easily, and a little soapy water makes them go back easily. 10 minute job each way.

thank you

 

[K-DUB]

I have the exact boat with cockpit ac. Save your money will not cool when you want.
Maybe heat reverse cycle might be something to consider but cooling never.

That’s good insight. Thanks.

 

[Strecker25]

Back in the water on another gloomy day. It was 87* last weekend, 34* today. Last years post looks identical so it must be when we decide to go in the weather stinks

the heat works, and it’s not taking on water, so life is good.