410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

I have been exploring options to digitize the engine temp, oil pressure, egt, boost etc and If I cant find replacement parts for the system monitor that is the route I will have follow. I just wish I knew why it failed so spectacularly.
 
Wrapping up my fridge install saga...the old one came out flawlessly, the new one wouldn't come down the stairs in any way/shape/form without the cabinet being removed.

First unexpected thing - the prior owner must have removed the trim piece above the fridge at some point, likely when he removed the old TV and installed a wine rack up there. The super cool thing he did when he put it all back together was use LIQUID NAILS to put the trim back in place...likely because he broke all the christmas tree clips in the process of removing it.

Second unexpected thing - there are 4 screws that connect the fridge cabinet to the stairs that have to be removed. 100% blind, not ideal access. You can imagine how hard I tried to remove the cabinet before finding these screws.

Once the cabinet is free it's brute force to get it out. Same getting it back in.

I started unloading the fridge from my truck at about 11AM and wrapped up right around 6PM. Did some minor damage to the trim around the door, which really pissed me off. Repairable but still not what I wanted.

I really like the new fridge. This thing better last forever based on the amount of cussing I did on Friday. I still have to finish drilling and attaching the flange to the cabinet but she's in and running...nice and cold.

52988394871_7c64ae58a8_h.jpg


52988394886_ebc313617a_h.jpg


52987794307_f416530c31_h.jpg


52988533569_7b54dcdbbd_h.jpg
 
damn, sounds terrible to say but I’m looking forward to the story…

Part of what killed me is that I tried getting the new fridge down the stairs 5 +/- times before getting the cabinet all the way out. Every time I'd get it to move another inch, or push it back into the cavity a bit further, I'd hollar over to a dock neighbor and give it another try. "It's got to work this time!". All fails. So the frustration was building as that continued.

This is a project I would not want to repeat...
 
Wrapping up my fridge install saga...the old one came out flawlessly, the new one wouldn't come down the stairs in any way/shape/form without the cabinet being removed.

First unexpected thing - the prior owner must have removed the trim piece above the fridge at some point, likely when he removed the old TV and installed a wine rack up there. The super cool thing he did when he put it all back together was use LIQUID NAILS to put the trim back in place...likely because he broke all the christmas tree clips in the process of removing it.

Second unexpected thing - there are 4 screws that connect the fridge cabinet to the stairs that have to be removed. 100% blind, not ideal access. You can imagine how hard I tried to remove the cabinet before finding these screws.

Once the cabinet is free it's brute force to get it out. Same getting it back in.

I started unloading the fridge from my truck at about 11AM and wrapped up right around 6PM. Did some minor damage to the trim around the door, which really pissed me off. Repairable but still not what I wanted.

I really like the new fridge. This thing better last forever based on the amount of cussing I did on Friday. I still have to finish drilling and attaching the flange to the cabinet but she's in and running...nice and cold.

52988394871_7c64ae58a8_h.jpg


52988394886_ebc313617a_h.jpg


52987794307_f416530c31_h.jpg


52988533569_7b54dcdbbd_h.jpg


Looks Great. Its a big projects, but a fridge that works well? Priceless!!
 
There are other options from analog to digital. All require some wiring and/or programming skills. Here is how I changed mine (you'll have to read the entire thread; it's a long one) - http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...nd-improve-the-sea-ray-systems-monitor.91270/
I can't remember who here did the analog version but it is good also.
There are other options from analog to digital. All require some wiring and/or programming skills. Here is how I changed mine (you'll have to read the entire thread; it's a long one) - http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...nd-improve-the-sea-ray-systems-monitor.91270/
I can't remember who here did the analog version but it is good also.
Thank you! There is a lot of great information in that thread… very helpful for any possible solution.
Does the OEM System Monitor also monitor the pumps in the sump for the shower drains? The front shower sump bilge pump is blowing the fuse, i replaced the pump buy it looks like the float switch is the problem. It was all disconnected at the time of the failure bit I am wondering if it could be related.
Scott
 
Thank you! There is a lot of great information in that thread… very helpful for any possible solution.
Does the OEM System Monitor also monitor the pumps in the sump for the shower drains? The front shower sump bilge pump is blowing the fuse, i replaced the pump buy it looks like the float switch is the problem. It was all disconnected at the time of the failure bit I am wondering if it could be related.
Scott
Mine did but I didn't see the need for the conversion.
 
ttmott so on your 410 the System Monitor would alert when the shower sump was operating?
I want to make sure I am understanding correctly. There are 3 bumps under the salon floor one for each shower inside of a sump box and a third in the compartment if those fail or overflow. It is not clear if the system monitoyr alerts for each sump box or the one that drains the entire compartment.
Thanks
 
ttmott so on your 410 the System Monitor would alert when the shower sump was operating?
I want to make sure I am understanding correctly. There are 3 bumps under the salon floor one for each shower inside of a sump box and a third in the compartment if those fail or overflow. It is not clear if the system monitoyr alerts for each sump box or the one that drains the entire compartment.
Thanks
On my 52DB the shower sump was monitored (no longer, I eliminated that monitor). On my old 2000 400DA - I seem to remember only the emergency pump under the floor for the shower sump overflow was on the Systems Monitor.
 
On my 52DB the shower sump was monitored (no longer, I eliminated that monitor). On my old 2000 400DA - I seem to remember only the emergency pump under the floor for the shower sump overflow was on the Systems Monitor.

all pumps show on our 2002 410 when active but only the high water alarms sound the buzzer, along with the engine monitoring stuff.

It will say something like 'aft bilge' or 'fwd bilge' on the display when those kick on without any audible alarm
 
all pumps show on our 2002 410 when active but only the high water alarms sound the buzzer, along with the engine monitoring stuff.

It will say something like 'aft bilge' or 'fwd bilge' on the display when those kick on without any audible alarm
Help me remember -
Isn't there a total of six pumps: Three in the engine room (two main and one emergency), one in the cabin under the rear most floor hatch and, one in each of the sump boxes?
I don't ever remember seeing the two boxes show up on the Systems Monitor screen.
Ah, I found a pic -
IMG_3358.JPG
 
Help me remember -
Isn't there a total of six pumps: Three in the engine room (two main and one emergency), one in the cabin under the rear most floor hatch and, one in each of the sump boxes?
I don't ever remember seeing the two boxes show up on the Systems Monitor screen.
Ah, I found a pic -
View attachment 146350

Yup, on our 2002 410:

forward sump, left box in your pic (no alarm but shows on SM)
rear sump, right box in your pic (no alarm but shows on SM)
middle bilge, pump far left in your pic (alarms on SM)
engine room rear bilge, between rudders in the keel (no alarm but shows on SM)
engine room forward bilge, near AC seacock (no alarm but shows on SM)
engine room high water alarm, also aft between the rudders but float mounted higher (alarms on SM)
 
Hey everyone I thought I would follow up on my post awhile back about the masthead light and getting clearance for the wide array radar. The light that came with the boat clears it but the support was horrible. Instead of wiring up something off centre and not correct, I bought a 3” x 12” long piece of plate aluminum and some bolt on tube clamps from Amazon. I will be bolting the plate to the radar arch in 4 spots to support it better.

The clamps have wing nuts so I will have the ability to fold it down without tools if I need to.

IMG_4957.jpeg
IMG_4955.jpeg
 
http://www.citimarine.com/ Is offering 30%+ on their Vitrifrigo’s now. I just cancelled an order with West Marine for the Isotherm Ref/Freezer to go to two DRW180 drawer units.
If those are the All In One drawer units you'll love them. One thing though - all of the heat vents and air circulates behind and on the sides of them. Not at the toe-kick like the Sub Zero.
 
If those are the All In One drawer units you'll love them. One thing though - all of the heat vents and air circulates behind and on the sides of them. Not at the toe-kick like the Sub Zero.

Tom
Yes I ordered the All in One Double Ref/Freezer unit. So appreciative of how you documented that install. I plan to follow it specifically for the venting and subfloor. How much actual room we have and trim I need to remove remains to be seen but I suspect my boat will be just about or exactly the same as yours.
 
Hey everyone I thought I would follow up on my post awhile back about the masthead light and getting clearance for the wide array radar. The light that came with the boat clears it but the support was horrible. Instead of wiring up something off centre and not correct, I bought a 3” x 12” long piece of plate aluminum and some bolt on tube clamps from Amazon. I will be bolting the plate to the radar arch in 4 spots to support it better.

The clamps have wing nuts so I will have the ability to fold it down without tools if I need to.

View attachment 146377 View attachment 146378

Nice Work!
 
Finally! A bone dry bilge going on one week now. Been chasing small leaks for a month now and finally got them all. Last and final leak found was the fresh water accumulator tank, which had a very slow but steady drip that took forever to find given its location in the ass end of the bilge....
 
Finally! A bone dry bilge going on one week now. Been chasing small leaks for a month now and finally got them all. Last and final leak found was the fresh water accumulator tank, which had a very slow but steady drip that took forever to find given its location in the ass end of the bilge....

I had one like that except it was the water heater. The damn thing denied physics and leaked FORWARD into the cabin bilge. It took forever to track it down. I ended up pressurizing each line until I found it (of course I started with the cold side)
 
I had one like that except it was the water heater. The damn thing denied physics and leaked FORWARD into the cabin bilge. It took forever to track it down. I ended up pressurizing each line until I found it (of course I started with the cold side)


Its a never ending war.
 

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