420/44 DB Owners Club

I made the mistake of adding a Garmin wind vane. This means I have to take it down every fall so that it doesn't get destroyed by the shrink wrap guys.
 
Has anyone added sound proofing to the engine room. My ears are ringing after each ride. Cummins CTA6 seem really loud above 1000 rpm. I get the wind etc.
makes noise.
Would love to add things to engine room to lower DB when cruising at 22knt or so . Seems we can bearly talk.
Would love some ideas if anyone has done any additions to muffle the sound
. ( I am also a music recording engineer)
 
My Glomex TV antenna has seen better days. I don’t use it and would like to take it down. Any ideas or products to cap off the mount?

upload_2023-4-22_17-48-0.jpeg
 
Paint it and leave it? Unless it’s in the way of you or something else.
 
My Glomex TV antenna has seen better days. I don’t use it and would like to take it down. Any ideas or products to cap off the mount?

View attachment 143219

I used it to install 2nd GPS, which uses the same 1-14 thread.
 
Has anyone installed different bilge blowers with more volume of air movement? Was thinking about that this past weekend after using boat and checking the engine area and thought it would be nice to move more air more quickly.
 
Does anyone run a stern tie rope reel on their boat.

It may be a Northwest thing for anchorages in BC, Canada. Typically called the Desolation Sound. It is kind of the San Juan Islands on steroids. However, many of the best anchorages are tight and most folks stern tie. We've done it before but on other peoples boats (OPB).

Some use a garden hose reel that looks tacky. There are other SS fancy reels that are clamped to the rails on trawlers

I'm not seeing an easy and reasonable cost reel setup for our boats.

Thanks!
 
As I recall, it's kind of a "rule of thumb" having PORT bank feeding majority of the house. The STBD side usually handles most items on the bridge, including the helm.

Since we stay on the hook most of the time, a pair of G31s wasn't good enough, so I added 3rd G31 battery to the PORT bank years ago and the issue was solved.

Quick tip, DBs are loaded with hyalogen lights from the factory, which draw a ton of juice. If you stay on the hook a lot and run lots of lighting, consider switching to LEDs, as the draw drops quite a bit. We're talking about from 25 to 5 amps.
I think a pair of dual purpose GRP31 marine batteries with 800+ CCA each would be a good choice.

Something like these: 31M-AGM battery | Interstate Batteries

I took both of your advices. I found these Duracell at Sam's for $214 each, exactly 1/4 the price of the 4D I'm replacing. They are rated as 105 ah and CCA 80. It seems to me that 2 of these are as good as one 4D at 1/2 the price.

Most of the battery cables installed by the former owner are 00. Am I ok to use gauge 2 wire to connect between these new batteries? They will be next to each other with cable length no more than 18".
Sam's batteries.jpg
 
Noticed a couple potential issues on our forward AC. First, the water seem to pool up due to the location of the drain. Its on the port side and I think it should be on the aft side of the unit. However the hose seems too tight to make that bend which is probably why Sea Ray installed as is. Has anyone done anything to address this?
ac drain.jpg



Second question. This line and the compressor seems to be discolored. Possibly getting too hot. Currently it does put out heat since the temps are cooler It also worked fine last season cooling. Is this normal or an impending failure due to low coolant?
line.JPG
 
Noticed a couple potential issues on our forward AC. First, the water seem to pool up due to the location of the drain. Its on the port side and I think it should be on the aft side of the unit. However the hose seems too tight to make that bend which is probably why Sea Ray installed as is. Has anyone done anything to address this?
View attachment 143366


Second question. This line and the compressor seems to be discolored. Possibly getting too hot. Currently it does put out heat since the temps are cooler It also worked fine last season cooling. Is this normal or an impending failure due to low coolant?
View attachment 143367
If the high side line off the compressor is warmer than usual it’s more likely high head pressure caused by lack of water flow, not short on gass.
 
Yes, still have it. We are in Washington State.

The canvas is black.
 
More battery help needed please!

I was going to install 3 new grp 31 batteries to the port bank and 2 to the starboard bank. I was surprised to see the existing connection had 3 4D on starboard and only 1 4D on port. As you can probably see in the first photo, there are 2 '00' cables on the far right 'starboard post' of the control box (don't know the proper name). One cable comes from 2 of the 4D in parallel. The 2nd cable comes from a sperate 4D which also has a 2 gauge cable going to a battery disconnect switch outside the control box. I traced this cable to the davit at the bow. The the label on motor for the davit hydraulic pump says 175 amp.

I wonder if the 4D x 3 are needed for the davit (which I've never used). The dingy sits on the SeaLift platform at the stern. The platform is powered by the thruster batteries. I can see putting the dingy on the bow for overnight fishing trips. What are your opinion of sticking with the plan of having 2 of the new grp 31 for the starboard and the davit? I can always run the generator while using the crane in those rare occasions.
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IMG_9523 (002).jpg
 
The canvas is usable and is without rips or tears. The isenglas is at the end of its life.

The canvas does not leak but is is not new.
 
More battery help needed please!

I was going to install 3 new grp 31 batteries to the port bank and 2 to the starboard bank. I was surprised to see the existing connection had 3 4D on starboard and only 1 4D on port. As you can probably see in the first photo, there are 2 '00' cables on the far right 'starboard post' of the control box (don't know the proper name). One cable comes from 2 of the 4D in parallel. The 2nd cable comes from a sperate 4D which also has a 2 gauge cable going to a battery disconnect switch outside the control box. I traced this cable to the davit at the bow. The the label on motor for the davit hydraulic pump says 175 amp.

I wonder if the 4D x 3 are needed for the davit (which I've never used). The dingy sits on the SeaLift platform at the stern. The platform is powered by the thruster batteries. I can see putting the dingy on the bow for overnight fishing trips. What are your opinion of sticking with the plan of having 2 of the new grp 31 for the starboard and the davit? I can always run the generator while using the crane in those rare occasions.
View attachment 143438


View attachment 143440
Hey Flix,
It seems a lot of changes have been made to this boat. A davit on the bow is certainly unique. Without knowing exactly what's going on with the wiring and what is being powered by what, it's tough to know what is appropriate.

My suggestion would be to forensically go through the port and starboard circuits to make an inventory of where loads are allocated, especially with the battery that has a dedicated disconnect. There is a lot of battery capacity on the starboard side, which is strange to me.
 
My buddy says pass on the canvas, Thanks for the offer & info

No problem, it goes to the dump tomorrow with the crappy mattress from the master.

Cut a new one out of a memory foam mattress. I could not believe how thin and lumpy the old one was. We had a topper on it but it would slide off...
 
Hey Flix,
It seems a lot of changes have been made to this boat. A davit on the bow is certainly unique. Without knowing exactly what's going on with the wiring and what is being powered by what, it's tough to know what is appropriate.

My suggestion would be to forensically go through the port and starboard circuits to make an inventory of where loads are allocated, especially with the battery that has a dedicated disconnect. There is a lot of battery capacity on the starboard side, which is strange to me.

You are right. The boat is so modified that diligent detective work is required for a safe install. Thanks for the advice and letting me know the original equipment.
 
Mark.60:

I think we met at 3 mile harbor a few weeks back. Mine had the same issue and drove me crazy. In reading/researching a fix, I ended up purchasing 400 pounds of reclaimed lead shot which was bagged in 25# nylon bags, that were sealed with a twisted steel tie. Made the for easy movement and secure placement. I placed the bags evenly under the port side (outside) bunk and worked my was back to the engine room adding a few bags on port side behind engine near holding tank. 400# (16 bags) fixed the issue 100%. Did not impact performance at all. I later added 200' of 5/16 anchor chain with 100" of line replacing the factory chain/rode. According to Sea Ray, the anchor rode in this configuration was a factory option so I followed their specs. Boat rides true and balanced and I never drag when on the hook. I Also replaced the factory Kodiak plow anchor with a polished stainless steel Ultra (plow) Anchor. I like the finish of the polished stainless plus had a friend with a 480 DA who purchased one and swore by it. I got the 21kg/46Lb. At $2,000+ new swivel, etc., not cheap but definitely gets the job done.

https://www.ultramarinewest.com/products/ultra-anchor?variant_id=685681767&options[345720243]=UA21-46: 21 KG (46 lbs.) ULTRA 316L Stainless Steel Anchor

p.s. Do you have a Hurley davit on your boat? I just purchased the H30 with extension. Installing this week. Replacing hydraulic SeaWise unit (for sale).
Hi Tenacious: Reading through the threads I came upon your post above regarding your Ultra anchor. I am interested in purchasing one and when I entered my information into the Ultra anchor selection chart (28,500 weight/44ft length) the results show using a 27kg/60lb Ultra size. I see you have a similar hull and using the 21/46 size. I am curious as to why you selected the smaller size and how is it holding up? Any buyers remorse?
 

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