420/44 DB Owners Club

Indeed a pain. I have not devised an easy access path. I am going to get appropriate parts to re route mine, and probably put one of those big orange filters on it.

How did you get it off? Did you remove the exhaust?
 
sb in gp said:
I changed the waste vent filter today and it was a PITA to get to. Has anyone relocated it? Was thinking of just adding some more hose and relocating it to a more accessible spot. Wondering if anyone already did this and where you ended up putting it?

Thanks,

Scott
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Scott,

This is on my to-do list as well. It's even worst in my case since I have storage shelving. It's only 3 screws to take the shelf off, but with exhaust pipe in the way, access to the waste filter is a PITA indeed. It's a low priority at this point, so I didn't think of a good spot for relocation, but I'm sure it's not a big deal at all. Keeping in mind that filter must be dry and it'll last for a long time, my rule of thumb is to start seeking pump-out when I see 1/2 full. I'm on the re-packed filter at least 2nd season and it's been fine with my approach.
 
CougarCruiser said:
Indeed a pain. I have not devised an easy access path. I am going to get appropriate parts to re route mine, and probably put one of those big orange filters on it.

How did you get it off? Did you remove the exhaust?
Click to expand...

AS Scott mentioned, using one hand will give you just enough reach to the fittings. I had to use channel-locks to get mine loose, but it's all done by one hand.

Honestly, it's one of the items where I ask myself "WTF was SR thinking when putting this filter in such location"? One think is hiding HWH (which lasts for 5+ yrs) behind exhaust pipe, but filter? It's so easy for it to get wet and be in need of replacement.
 
I could barely touch mine with one hand but there was a young college kid on the dock washing boats that was about 6'5". I offered him a 12 pack if he get reach the fittings and put the new filter on, he got it done in less than 10 minutes and was happy for the refreshments!
 
I'm going to look for some quick-release fittings to put on it to make it easier to remove with one hand.

Scott
 
CougarCruiser said:
Can someone give me some advice on what is needed to pull the salon flat screen? Do I have to take out the electronics below and try to get at it from the backside?

For the life of me, I cannot get the TV to come off it's mount (whatever type it is).
Click to expand...

I am interested in the answer to this post too! My M3 Kvh satellite system just crashed and the repair cost $$$$$ have me leaning towards upgrading to a brand new system. KVH's has just released a new line of products. I'm looking at the Tracvision TV-3 system. I will also upgrade my salon TV. I welcome Any thoughts regarding TV removal, TV replacement, and KVH's new TV-series lineup. Thanks!
 
CougarCruiser said:
Can someone give me some advice on what is needed to pull the salon flat screen? Do I have to take out the electronics below and try to get at it from the backside?

For the life of me, I cannot get the TV to come off it's mount (whatever type it is).
Click to expand...

I just read about 25 pages in this thread in an attempt to catch up. There was a pic about 20 pages ago that showed removing ONLY TWO screws on the side walls against the black panels and then the tv falls forward on your head along with the support structure. Try it (but maybe wear a pillow on your head).
 
Hampton said:
I just read about 25 pages in this thread in an attempt to catch up. There was a pic about 20 pages ago that showed removing ONLY TWO screws on the side walls against the black panels and then the tv falls forward on your head along with the support structure. Try it (but maybe wear a pillow on your head).
Click to expand...


Correct. The salon TV is on a weird hinge setup with the screws that are on each side of the electronics cubby. Open up the glass doors below the TV, and remove the lower screws on the left and right sides. voila - the tv will fold down.

For the stateroom tv (mine was a tube tv with built in dvd), there is an access panel in the closet where a couple screws secure the base of the TV. Remove those screws and the TV slides out.

I just picked up a mount that I think will work - and has a screw to lock it in place from the top. YOu will need to use approx 3/4-1" spacers off the tv to clear the cabinetry. I am trying this mount:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEWDVKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


For TV, I picked up a 28" samsung that Costco had on sale for 200ish bucks... fits nicely without being too overbearing.
 
CougarCruiser said:
Correct. The salon TV is on a weird hinge setup with the screws that are on each side of the electronics cubby. Open up the glass doors below the TV, and remove the lower screws on the left and right sides. voila - the tv will fold down.

For the stateroom tv (mine was a tube tv with built in dvd), there is an access panel in the closet where a couple screws secure the base of the TV. Remove those screws and the TV slides out.

I just picked up a mount that I think will work - and has a screw to lock it in place from the top. YOu will need to use approx 3/4-1" spacers off the tv to clear the cabinetry. I am trying this mount:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEWDVKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


For TV, I picked up a 28" samsung that Costco had on sale for 200ish bucks... fits nicely without being too overbearing.
Click to expand...


I was thinking the same 28" Samsung! Can you send along a photo of how it looks. Thanks!
 
Question. What are the make/model/brand of the breakers that are in the main 12v bilge panel? This is the main 'systems down in the lazarette? I'm going to be adding some equipment and would like to add it to this panel if possible.
 

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Question: Has anyone had a failure of the fuel gage in the 4 in 1 instrument cluster? The starboard gage reading went to zero with 3/4 tank. Looked for a circuit breaker or fuse but could not find one. I removed the dash and swapped gages with the problem going to the other side, so the gage works ok. The problem most likely is a faulty tank sensor which is a real pain to get at or a covered fuse on the engine somewhere. Any ideas or lessons learned?
 
If both tanks are approx. 3/4 full and since you have access to the sender leads behind the gauges, can you use a VOM on the leads from both tanks? If you get similar voltages, that would indicate problem in the gauge, and the tank sensor sender and fuse (if any) are Ok.

Good luck
 
Has anyone replaced their screen door? Wondering if this is a standard size I can get at a big box store. Had a big friend walk into it yesterday and bent the crap out of the frame.
 
sb in gp said:
Has anyone replaced their screen door? Wondering if this is a standard size I can get at a big box store. Had a big friend walk into it yesterday and bent the crap out of the frame.
Click to expand...

Ok I'll answer my own question. To remove the screen, you need to remove both glass doors. It is tricky to get the stationary door off. Check this thread for a way to get the stationary door off. http://clubsearay.com/showpost.php?p=783586

Not sure if this is the best way, but it works.
 
Plan on moving up to 420db. Questions for any owners out there that have A/C on the bridge. How effective and efficient is having A/C with the glass/canvas enclosure vs opening up and getting good air flow. Bear i n mind I am talking south Florida as primary area of operation.
 
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