A bilge pump is a bilge pump? Or so I thought...

dtfeld

Water Contrails
GOLD Sponsor
Jun 5, 2016
5,614
Milton, GA
Boat Info
410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
Engines
Cat 3126 V-Drives
I need to replace a Rule 2000 GPH bilge pump. I figured there would only be one option.

Wrong!!

There is a standard, UL listed and a Gold Series.

Any reason to choose one over the other? I'm thinking I don't need UL listed...I think only required for commercial vessels.

That leaves the standard and the Gold with a 5 year warranty. Original is over 20 years old...


1708811164845.png
 
I look at bilge pumps (and floats) essentially as a limited life disposable item. They get checked about twice a year and if making noise or other issues pop in goes another. Get the least expensive one.

And the automatic ones? Pfft...
 
I look at bilge pumps (and floats) essentially as a limited life disposable item. They get checked about twice a year and if making noise or other issues pop in goes another. Get the least expensive one.

And the automatic ones? Pfft...
I saw the write up on the automatic...something about turning on every 2 min...nah.
 
I need to replace a Rule 2000 GPH bilge pump. I figured there would only be one option.

Wrong!!

There is a standard, UL listed and a Gold Series.

Any reason to choose one over the other? I'm thinking I don't need UL listed...I think only required for commercial vessels.

That leaves the standard and the Gold with a 5 year warranty. Original is over 20 years old...


View attachment 159539

There's no difference between UL and CE. Rule probably got bullied into getting one of their lines of pumps UL listed by some North American boat manufacturer. Now they're trying to offset some of the expense by pretending it makes the pump safer :)
 
There's no difference between UL and CE. Rule probably got bullied into getting one of their lines of pumps UL listed by some North American boat manufacturer. Now they're trying to offset some of the expense by pretending it makes the pump safer :)
You would think they would just make 1 UL listed pump and charge more across the board...
 
Any idea what grade, the existing pump was?
20 years old is pretty good for any pump. IMO

what is the cost difference?
 
If you're replacing pumps, consider replacing your switches too? These little guys are nice...

1708951853113.png
 
If you replace with same you can use the mount that is screwed to the hull. If you change you get to drill more holes.
 
This is supposed to be a Model 10...same base.

I'm going to pull the screws and reseal with LifeSeal.

Fingers crossed!
 
I always go with mechanical Rule pumps that need float switches. I completely agree with Tom @ttmott on this, disposable and cheapest is best. I have things wired for quick replacement and use the same pump everywhere and keep one as a spare. Same with the float.

Also just for the record, UL and CE are not the same, UL is for the states and CE originated in EU and use different standards.
 
Also just for the record, UL and CE are not the same, UL is for the states and CE originated in EU and use different standards.

Ha. The real difference is that you can self declare for one of them but for the other you have to pay absurd fees, submit to testing and sign up for ongoing third party factory surveillance...a true racket.
 
Ha. The real difference is that you can self declare for one of them but for the other you have to pay absurd fees, submit to testing and sign up for ongoing third party factory surveillance...a true racket.

Know it all to well. I use to support a self certifying U.L. listed company, I was the lead engineer supporting it.
 

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