Battery drain troubleshooting

John E3

Active Member
Nov 21, 2022
236
Rock Hall, MD
Boat Info
1999 370 Aft Cabin
Engines
Horizon 454
Post winter haul both battery banks are going stone dead within about 2 weeks. All 4 batteries are about 18mo old. Because we were going to be away when it got hauled I disconnected shore power, then it was almost 2 weeks till they hauled it. No issues with starting, so they seemed fine then.
About 3 weeks after hauling I went over to winterize and stb was 6.5v and port was 10.5. I drug out 200ft of cord and connected line 1for the charger. Meter slapped hard to 40a+ and back to zero maybe 10 times, then settled at 30, the full rating. I went back the next day, charger at 0, stbd at 12.6, port still 10.5. Loaded stbd side and the charger still sat at zero. This is the original 1999 charger. I suspected it may have been on the way out and causing the drain.
I had a spare Xantrex multi stage 3 bank from another boat so I installed it and all was well. Yard does not allow unattended plug in, so power off, and 2 or 3 weeks later, both are dead again. I was not turning off the mains, but every panel switch was off.
Stbd bank feeds pumps, stereo memory and 12v distro panel. Port bank feeds other pumps and helm/electronics. Mains only cut power to distro panel and helm. Pumps, blowers, stereo and system monitor are not switched. I did turn off the mains when I unplugged a few days ago so that will eliminate a lot of potential loads, but every switch in the panel and at the helm is off, so there should be no chance of a load regardless of the mains. If they go dead again it's got to be TWO unswitched loads as there is no connection between them.
Once the Temps get back above 30 I'll be back over to start testing. I have a shunt based amp meter that goes on the battery posts to take measurements. Of the unswitched loads the system monitor, stereo and bilge blower modules (one on each bank) are the only devices that could be a drain, all the pumps are float switches and the bilge was bone dry at haul, and sumps verified when I winterized them. The pump below the aft sump was cycled due to draining the waterheater. That pump and float are new this past season cause they were missing. Others have been tested for peace of mind, since they never run.

So the key question for the crowd here is, can you manually trip the DC circuit breakers, short of.. uh.. a short? That would allow me to track down a load, if I find there is one. Every unswitched load has its own breaker.
I have little doubt new batteries could be the issue. 1 is from WM and the other 3 are NAPA brand, and 100% identical, probably off the same mfg line.
John
 
Sure, you can flip the DC breakers off. Totally fine to do that.

I'm assuming you've already done an amp draw test with all items turned off and verified that you do, in fact, have excessive draw. Next, watch your amp draw as you turn the breakers off one by one - and most likely will find the offending circuit.
 
The CO detectors are not on circuit breakers.
Just wiring connected to the batteries can create a bit of current due to moisture and salt in the air; but that's not much.
But most likely there is a leaking diode in one of the alternators and/or that old battery charger's diodes are failing. The only way to take alternators off the batteries is to pull the battery cables.
If there are battery isolators they can fail to ground - diodes again.
Does that boat have the Mercathode system?
If fuel injected the engines will always have some electrical demand.
 
The CO detectors are not on circuit breakers.
Just wiring connected to the batteries can create a bit of current due to moisture and salt in the air; but that's not much.
But most likely there is a leaking diode in one of the alternators and/or that old battery charger's diodes are failing. The only way to take alternators off the batteries is to pull the battery cables.
If there are battery isolators they can fail to ground - diodes again.
Does that boat have the Mercathode system?
If fuel injected the engines will always have some electrical demand.
Some good points.
Salt air is not generally an issue in the north chesapeake. It's super clean with minimal signs of corrosion anywhere. It went 5 months last winter with no ac power and still had plenty of charge.
CO detectors are new.
Alternators can be disconnected easily.
Battery isolator is bypassed, and on my list to replace.
No mercathode.
MEFI power is switched.
The only electrical work I did since last winter was adding a Seatalk backbone and Axiom MFD. They are powered from the helm electronics circuit which is off. And replaced all 3 CO detectors with proper marine units. Time to check their power requirements.

The fact that both go dead and that there is NO connection between them suggests 2 drains.
 
4 CO detectors FireboyXintex, 4ma draw. They could theoretically run 10+ years on 2x series 27 batteries without a charge. I don't recall seeing them in the wiring diagrams, so not sure where they connect but still should not matter.
Turning off the breakers is still key. I'd rather not have to short them.

Found a thread here on CSR, thru a google search:
 
The CO detectors are connected to the MDB in the DC panel which DOES go through the main switches, but no switch in the MDB to turn them off otherwise.
 
The CO detectors are connected to the MDB in the DC panel which DOES go through the main switches, but no switch in the MDB to turn them off otherwise.
That is not right. CO detectors should NEVER be able to be turned off... unless you disconnect the power wire inside them.
 
From the Supplement wiring diagram. The Main feed at the top comes from the switched side of the main switch, stbd bank. 4 Co Monitor clearly labled.
Screenshot_20240118-210458_Drive.jpg
 

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