Bravo 3 to Bravo 2 exchange on 260DA

FishOn

FishOn

Member
May 2, 2018
128
Washington State
Boat Info
2000 260 Sundancer 260DA
Engines
5.7 Mercruiser w/ Bravo3
I'm wondering if anyone here has ever switch from a B3 to a B2 kn a 260 Sundancer? I have a 2000 260DA with a B3 (2.20R?) + 5.7 efi engine and am battling the notorious corrosion issues. I understand that the B2 has far less problem with this. I'm wondering if someone has done this conversion, what gear ratio they used, and how the performance compared (especially for this model).
20190303_164525.jpg
 
FishOn said:
I'm wondering if anyone here has ever switch from a B3 to a B2 kn a 260 Sundancer? I have a 2000 260DA with a B3 (2.20R?) + 5.7 efi engine and am battling the notorious corrosion issues. I understand that the B2 has far less problem with this. I'm wondering if someone has done this conversion, what gear ratio they used, and how the performance compared (especially for this model).View attachment 67118
Click to expand...

I know I posted on another one of your threads regarding this but this picture explains a lot.

1) You have bottom paint in contact with the transom assembly - that is no good.
2) I think you may have the wrong anodes - based on the pictures the ones on the rams look to be in good shape in comparison to the drive. That leads me to believe they are not "sacrificing" themselves to protect the drives from the electrolysis that is eating at your casing.

I might be wrong here but I would think without resolving these issues you may have a similar issue on a Bravo2 with stainless props.

Unless you have an issue with the drive itself - I would lean towards performing the proper prep an maintenance over changing out the drives. It's really not that hard to do.

-Kevin
 
Thanks for the replies! Yeh, I started it again here in hope that it's a more suitable area of the forum. I'm pretty new here so still figuring things out. Kevin, it was painted when I bought it. What you noted is what I thought as well. I actually blew a little away from around the transom plate when I pressure washed it last Fall. I looked into this a little more and the previous owner used Trilux Black. According to Trilux it is ok to paint right up to the drive with this. I think it has less copper or something. Most of the anodes are dissolving rapidly. They are replaced in the photo. The exception are those ram anodes. I'll replace them as well as try and locate the prop nut anode conversion kit (have not had luck finding that yet though). Out of curiosity though what other material is there? I know they have magnesium for freshwater, but those should dissolve faster in salt. Thanks Scoflaw. Definitely dont want a slug. The B3 does get up onto plane pretty quick. After that I usually just cruise at about 3500 rpm and 24mph.
 
Make sure all your bonding wires are intact and check that your mercathode is working. Aluminum anodes.
Call Merc customer support for a part number on the prop nut conversion. 920-929-5040
 
Check with boatzinc.com for the proper material but generally it's Aluminum in salt water. They also have a prop nut conversion kit available and the replacement anodes for them.

+1 on scoflaws comment on checking the bonding if it is not intact its basically useless. Then inspect the mercathode installed under the base of the unit at the transom. If the wire or unit is damaged it's not helping either and then you can also verify the controller although I don't remember off hand how to.

Finally any stray current at the dock can cause a problem with out testing it you will not know. It could be current leaking off a neighboring boat.

-Kevin
 
Thanks to the 2 of you. I'm pretty sure that those ram anodes are either aluminum or possibly zinc. They dont go as quickly as the other aluminum ones though. Thanks for the directions to the prop anode. Any reference for "checking the mercathode system"? Or for that matter the bonding points? I spent some time today scrubbing the drive. It looks a lot better. I got most if not all of the loose paint off. It's just about ready to paint.
 
The bonding wires are daisy chained to all the individual parts in the outdrive and a ground wire is attached to the inner transom plate area on one of the studs. Chances are you have no connectivity on your rams.

Your manual has the mercathode testing procedure or Merc customer support will email them to you. Have your engine number handy, they ask for it.
 
Thanks Scoflaw, that's great info! Sounds like I need to get busy with my ohm meter.
 
Have a friend with similar corrosion on a bravo three. As discussed check or have someone check the ground straps and anodes. You also can get a prop nut annode as well. My buddy added a second mercathode system with twin puck anodes on the transom, this seems to have fixed his issue
 
I agree somethings not right with your setup. It could be ground straps or stray current or Mercathode not working. I had the same Bravo III on a boat I bought new in 1999 owned it five years and when I sold the boat it looked as good as when I bought it. Those anodes are wrong for the Rams. Also if you boat in saltwater use aluminum if in fresh use magnesium. Don't add because you can have too much anode protection.
 
Conductivity/bonding is good throughout. I went through with an ohm meter. I know now that the PO put the wrong style of trim ram anodes on there as mentioned previously in this thread. After cleaning, sanding, 3 coats of Primocon, and 2 coats of Trilux 33 it's looking a LOT better. Just need to put the zinc back on. I know Mercury has the prop nut conversion for $200. Boatzincs has it for $50. Anyone use that one with success? It looks the same.
20190505_210909.jpg
 
I'm not certain but I believe the diver I hired to replace the zinc only did the cavitation plate one so the big horse shoe one deteriorated completely. That combined with the wrong style of trim anodes likely caused the mess.
 
I used the boatzincs prop anode and it worked great.

I would also expand the boat paint gap all around the transom assembly.

-Kevin
 
Kevin, great, thanks! Though I've seen a few recommendations on this forum in strong support of Performance Metals anodes. They also have the conversion nut for about the same cost. The one on boatzincs is made by Technoseal. As for the bottom paint the PO used Trilux Black. The manufacturer says it's OK right up to the drive. I stripped some away as you can see, just in case. I may work on that a bit more, at least to pretty it up.
 
Looking good. I'm glad you took the recommendations from the other thread to slow down and check things out better, rather than just replacing it. I really didn't see anything in your pictures that warranted replacing - now that you have it cleaned up and painted, it looks nice.

Performance Metals... Yes, I would absolutely use those over Boat Zincs - and even over the Merc stuff (which is very good, by the way). In my opinion, PM is the ticket.
 
Yes, thanks for the recommendation there. Sort of makes me wonder about the shop I brought it to. I did discover why the PO had those alternate/ineffective zincs on the trim rams. Someone over-tightened and stripped the outside attachment screws. So hopefully I'll be able to tap those out to a little larger screw. The inside ones were OK. Also now that I have the trailer I'll be able to keep an eye on things.
 
OK, Kevin, or anyone with experience with the prop nut conversion. I bought the Performance Marine equivalent to the Boatzincs.com prop anode conversion. What I notice on both is that neither allow use of a cotter pin! That's fairly disconcerting. I think the OEM one (which is likely Martyr) does have holes for cotter pin. Instead the aftermarket ones rely on a nylon insert sort of like a lock nut. How many times have you reused yours without spinning the props off? Has the OEM version gone to the lock washer variety? Without the positive visual reassurance of the cotter pin it makes me pretty nervous.
 
FishOn said:
OK, Kevin, or anyone with experience with the prop nut conversion. I bought the Performance Marine equivalent to the Boatzincs.com prop anode conversion. What I notice on both is that neither allow use of a cotter pin! That's fairly disconcerting. I think the OEM one (which is likely Martyr) does have holes for cotter pin. Instead the aftermarket ones rely on a nylon insert sort of like a lock nut. How many times have you reused yours without spinning the props off? Has the OEM version gone to the lock washer variety? Without the positive visual reassurance of the cotter pin it makes me pretty nervous.
Click to expand...
I think you're getting confused with another boat you may have owned. The B3 has NEVER used a cotter pin. Look closer at the shaft - there shouldn't be a hole. If there is, some previous owner messed with something that didn't need messing with.

The 'nyloc' (nylon locking nut) can be used many times.
 
Hah, yeh, you're right. I guess I'm getting it confused with EVERY other boat/motor I have ever owned (which is a fair number). The crazy thing that confounded the matter is that everyone I spoke to about this (boatzincs, performance metals, searay service, etc..) also thought it did.. Now that you say this and I look closer at a picture (boat is offsite) I see what you are saying. Thanks once again and glad to know the nylon washer lasts a long time!
 
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