Build plans & advice please? 1989 180 Bowrider restoration

[James Lister]

Hello fellow Sea Ray members.

I've found myself in need of some advice and/or potential factory build plans.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...180-bowrider-restoration.107849/#post-1290894

This is the link to where I've posted all the images. To summarise, I've ripped out everything, right down to the hull. The stringers have gone, and everything inside the hull needs re-building. I took dimensions beforehand, but some sort of factory information would be helpful. Is there such a thing available please?

Thanks,

James

 

[zool]

You're not gonna find build plans for a production boat. You will find a service manual for the engine, and maybe a parts list for the boat.

As for rebuild advice, looks like you are on the right path if you took measurements and photos.

For the deck, you should leave a 2" or so lip around the perimeter, then run a straight edge beam to beam to get the stringer and bulkhead height correct stern to bow.

On that model, you want to brace the helm and passenger dash with the center window closed and true, so when you reinstall the deck, the dash doesnt sag in the center.

You need to check the transom for rot too, this can be done by drillng into it in a bunch of places from the inside, and just deep enough to hit wood.

You need to grind the hull to clean glass before laminating in the new stringers and bulkheads and be sure to add the needed limber holes for water to run to the stern and be pumped out.

You should use 2 part pour in foam to replace the old removed foam.

I usually separate the cap from the hull when rebuilding, but thats optional on that model.

Any questions you run into, feel free to ask, ive done my share of rebuilds from bare hull up.

 

[James Lister]

Very helpful. Thank you! I'll be sure to ask questions along the way!

One question I had already. Should the new plywood stringer section be touching the hull when I fit the shape? I've seen on a couple of builds people spacing the ply off the hull before laminating, to allow for 'flex'? Not sure how this helps, as the fibreglassing will make the stringer rigid anyway?

When i was dismantling, the end grains on the top edge of the stringers were exposed, as it had only been laminated from the inside edge. From what I've seen on many construction videos, the fibreglass should run along both edges, and up and over the top to encase the plywood. Is this correct?

Best

James

 

[zool]

Yes on the spacers for the stringers and bulkheads, you dont want the hard edge against the hull as it can cause stress cracks. You can also rip angls to the bottom of the stringers if the hull under them is angled. The space under also allows thickend resin to get under as you fillet the side of the stringer to the hull, forming a coved base so the glass lams wrap easily.

I wrap the top of the stringers with light cloth to just seal them, but the deck will be glued to the top with thickened resin so thats optional as long as u use enough resin to cover the raw wood edges.

 

[Golfman25]

Search Firsco boater on Youtube. He rebuilt a 90s bow rider. You'll find a lot of helpful advice. Good luck.

 

[dvx216]

Andy at Boatworkstoday.com does offer consoling on projects. Not sure the cost or details. Look him up on you tube. For more in-depth videos go to Patreon and for a monthly subscription as low as 3 dollars you can get a lot in information.

 

[Golfman25]

Andy at Boatworkstoday.com does offer consoling on projects. Not sure the cost or details. Look him up on you tube. For more in-depth videos go to Patreon and for a monthly subscription as low as 3 dollars you can get a lot in information.

Another good source with lots of videos.

 

[James Lister]

Hey Guys - update.

Pretty much all material was ripped out, apart from the two 'boxes' that sit under the swim deck at the back. As I cut away the fibreglass, surprise surprise, more wood rot! The only way to cut these out and replace properly is to split the hull from the top section- so that's what I've done.

Upon doing so - I've discovered that this has definitely been done before which would explain why everything is so shoddy. The giveaways were firstly the pink resin/sealant used around the transom. Extremely hard and had cracked. Hundreds of rivet holes, and rivets not fasted correctly in the seem; seem banding bent, and fastened with odd screws; bathroom silicone used to fill the gap but also very poorly.

Looks like I'm literally at square one, and will have to repair pretty much everything. Sad tines.

 

[zool]

Now you're cooking with gas.

Consider additional temporary supports under the hull until the new stringers and deck go back in. You dont want a hook in the hull, or the cap to not slide back on.

Good Job.

 

[James Lister]

Good Afternoon Chaps,

More updates for you. I decided to full split the hull, and replace everything. It's all rotten! I've stripped it all back to the original hull fibreglass, ready to re build the plywood structure. I'd like some advice on the configuration of the new transom and strings though. See attached diagrams. First is the structure i've just taken out, second is an alternative.

 

[James Lister]

See attached progress photos

 

[spikedaddy99]

Holy shit! I'm following this one. You are down to nothing!!

 

[zool]

Good Afternoon Chaps,

More updates for you. I decided to full split the hull, and replace everything. It's all rotten! I've stripped it all back to the original hull fibreglass, ready to re build the plywood structure. I'd like some advice on the configuration of the new transom and strings though. See attached diagrams. First is the structure i've just taken out, second is an alternative. View attachment 122072 View attachment 122073

Both plans will work, just make sure you clamp the transom wood down tight when bonding it, and tab enough of an overlap of cloth to keep both the transom an stringers from delaminating under stress.

sacrificial screws work fine, but the strength comes from the glass.

 

[James Lister]

Holy shit indeed! Didn't expect to have to strip it this far!

Thanks Zool. What are your thoughts on using Coosa board?

 

[zool]

Nothing wrong with Coosa, accept the price .. Exterior ply is fine, will last a long time if maintained.

 

[James Lister]

Could anyone advise me on the following:
- Most appropriate chopped strand weight, for tabbing & other applications
- Biaxial glass weight, or should i be using full woven?
- Which type of Polyester resin. Including catylist?

Thanks

James

 

[zool]

Could anyone advise me on the following:
- Most appropriate chopped strand weight, for tabbing & other applications
- Biaxial glass weight, or should i be using full woven?
- Which type of Polyester resin. Including catylist?

Thanks

James

You can just use 1708 csm backed biax for all glassing, along with Poly laminating resin and catylist (mekp) from US Composites in Fl.
I buy all my epoxy resins and cloth from there.

http://www.uscomposites.com/

 

[zool]

This is the resin you need, comes with cat included

435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin
(Marine Grade Resin)

 

[James Lister]

Thank you! I'm in the UK, so will try to find an equivalent.

 

[Strecker25]

You asked this a while ago earlier in the thread but just to let you know I’ve been able to get the original drawings for both my 1998 290DA and our 2002 410DA. They are the original design docs and include all measurement, material types, glass weight, etc. the 410 one is like 40 pages with cutaways of all structure.

you have to get ahold of SR customer service and ask nicely.