How To Remove Prop

Sprint27c

Sprint27c

Member
Jan 26, 2008
42
Clyde, Ohio
Boat Info
55 Sundancer 2009
470 Sundancer 2013 (For Sale!)
Engines
Man 1100's w/ V-Drives (55 DA)
Cummins 480 w/ Zeus Pod's (470 DA)
There's a bit of a small curl on the port side prop (from maybe a log or something soft) - so it looks like its going to need some slight reconditioning before we splash this spring. We've got some good prop people in the area so that won't be a problem.

I'd like to remove and send the wheel in myself. I have the large tools to get the job done - but before I head under there, I'd like to get some info on exactly how to remove/reinstall.

Is the prop on a tapered shaft? Will I expect to have to "beat" it off with a mallet/block of wood? Should I expect to use some sort of PB Blaster or lube? Is there a proper torque for reinstall?

Boat is a 2005 - 420 DA w/ diesels.

Thanks for any help,
 
You say you have the tools, but do you have an appropriately sized prop puller? Without it you are in for a long, tough job and will likely damage both the prop and shaft.

The shaft is tapered and there is a key (1/4" x 1/4") square bar stock that fits in grooves in the prop and the shaft.

The first step is to remove the cotter pin. Then, using a piece of lumber wedged between the boat and the prop, remove the outer nut. Loosen the inner nut so that it is no more than about 1/4" to 3/8" from the face of the prop. Apply the puller and begin to tighten. The prop should pop forward and stop when it hits the nut. You may have to heat the prop hub slightly with a torch to expand it.

Keep track of the keys as they are not usually interchangeable between sides. Also use the opportunity to clean the nuts, key and shafts.

Getting them on is another story. Don't use any kind of lubricant. Be very careful about the way you brace the prop as you can damage a blade if you do it incorrectly. Tighten until you can't tighten any more.
 
Sea Gull said:
You say you have the tools, but do you have an appropriately sized prop puller? Without it you are in for a long, tough job and will likely damage both the prop and shaft.
Click to expand...

Crap I forgot about a prop-puller. I'll do some looking around and see what I can find. A new one for a 2" shaft is about $350 so that wouldn't be worth it...

Other than that I'd be in good shape.

Thanks for the good info as always.
 
You say it "wouldn't be worth it" but you should consider it.
With a spare set of wheels aboard, and a prop puller- you can get yourself out of a fix if you damage a prop while cruising.
 
A couple of suggestions:

1) Check with the prop shop, most of the ones I know will loan you a puller to get the prop work.

2) Hire a marine mechanic. Most only charge $50 per side to R&R the props on your boat. If you watch him do the work, you will be able to do it the next time.

It's a good skill to learn.

-John
 
tobnpr said:
You say it "wouldn't be worth it" but you should consider it.
With a spare set of wheels aboard, and a prop puller- you can get yourself out of a fix if you damage a prop while cruising.
Click to expand...

Yes I'm looking for a used puller now - I'd like to have one...though I'm not sure where I'd keep a set of large (~26"?) wheels...as it is I'm adding another 36" of boat (with a SeaLift) platform for a dingy...
 
For normal inland/coastal cruising this is not an in-water service job on a 420. You would want the boat hauled, and at that point you may as well have the yard switch the props for you.
 
I have had my props swapped out for my spares several times and every time it involved hauling the boat. I had a diver try once and he couldn't get them off... When they haul it they always use a torch on the shaft to heat it up and it always makes me a little nervous... Something about a torch next to a plastic hull.

What Jeff said...
 
Theoretically the torch should be nowhere near the cutlass bearing. The torch should only be used to heat the hub of the propeller, not the shaft. You want the prop to expand away from the shaft, not have the shaft expand into the prop.
 
Honestly, I never really watched that closely of where they are heating up but I always hear a loud *pop* as the prop comes loose. Seeing as these guys are probably the biggest Viking service shop in the mid-atlantic, I assume they know what they are doing... hmm... there's that "assume" word again.
 
I'm with Pirate on this.
It is not that big of a deal to replace the props with the boat in the water. We have a local commercial diver who does this all the time on boats ranging from 30' to 110'. The bigger boats require lift bags to keep the prop from going to the bottom.

I have only had to use a torch once in the last ten years and that was on a badly corroded shaft. You only use heat as a last resort.

The key to getting the prop off is the puller. Don't waste your time with a three jaw automotive gear puller.....they aren't built for the amount of pressure it takes to pop the prop loose.

-John
 
I have pulled many props and I find it easier if I use a little penetrating oil a day or two before I need to pull. Tap the shaft with a hammer to get some vibrations going, it will help when you put your puller on. I have an Algonac Prop Puller and it works just fine. It helps after you have tightened the puller to give it a good hard wack with a hammer on the prop puller and BANG, the prop breaks free. Remember to NOT remove the shaft nut 'cause you don't want that prop falling off all the way, just back the nut off about an inch is all you need. If you need a set of spares for your diesel 420DA I have a beautiful new set listed in the classified section here (so much for my shameless plug) that will fit your boat. Good luck, pulling a prop is something that is good to know how to do.
 
I realize that this is just my situation, but....I would go for the prop puller. I am currently in the Bahamas, and after my anchor drug (while I was drinking in a nearby island on a moonless night), I had to get out of the shallow water while there was still water in the "pond". I bent one prop pretty well, so I limped to the next mooring where I thought I would just put on my spare props. The bootom line: No prop puller, no pulling props. I had to pay $675.00 to get divers to change them out with the proper tools (prop puller) in about 20 minutes per side. I will be getting that prop puller next year.

I thought you guys might need a little laugh, so here I am.

briman
 
You have your 480 DB in the Bahamas... Yeah... I'm feeling really bad for you. Anyone else feeling bad for him? Votes?
 
Yes, I'm feeling sorry for Brimanst too. Visited with him yesterday at this old out of the way place called Atlantis. Life is tough sometimes. Good seeing you, though.

James
 
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