rustybronco
Member
Here's a picture of how it looked when I bought it.
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Yep, the prop shaft is captured by the reverse/rear gear, so pulling the shaft backwards is applying force directly to the carrier. See the following exploded view. #51 is the prop shaft proper, and it'll pull against #52 Reverse Gear, which is nested into the bearing carrier.So the prop shaft will directly come out after the carrier is removed? That appears to be the only way your methods will work. If so I will try putting metal plates between prop and the lower units housing, putting the brass washer and nut back on and tightening the prop shaft nut.
No worries about the paint. You shouldn't get the outdrive any hotter than what you can touch. That won't be hot enough to damage the paint. Anything hotter and you start to melt seals and o-rings. All you're looking to do is get the aluminum housing to expand a bit. Don't go overboard with the home remedies. If this doesn't work, you may have to break down and purchase the proper puller like this. They ain't cheep, but sometimes it's the only way out. Others have had some success by pressurizing the lower unit through the oil hole. Youtube is full of info/ideas. In any case, a little heat will help with any scheme.I couldn't see the prop shaft detail clear enough both in manual #14 and online.
Prop carrier puller was a no go. (Fresh water boat.) I'll try the metal plates between housing and forward side of prop tomorrow. The carrier has been sprayed with PB blaster. If that doesn't work I'll get a two jaw puller and try it that way. Worse comes to worse, oxy propane it is. Rather not as the paint is decent 'ish on the lower.
Brother, you are all in! Seriously, you might consider outdrive repair as a side hustle now that you have all the specialty tools and, especially, the ability to use them properly. There's still plenty of those Alpha outdrives running around out there.So far I have $339.49 "all in" for all the special tools necessary to repair my stern drive. This includes Gimbal bearing puller and alignment tool with installer. Both shimming tools for the upper, slide hammer set, the upper retainer tool and the lower carrier removal tool.
I still need to get two Timken 386A bearings, the upper seal kit and a new impeller. Those will have to wait until next month. A bit tapped out for now...
As my dad would say, "Any port in a storm". I use sockets all the time as "specialty" press tools. Heat those aluminum pieces a bit prior to pressing the bearings. 200°F will make a huge difference when installing bearings, to the point that they sometimes drop in on their own. 200's not hot enough to cause any problems with any rubber parts, so no worries.I guess so.
I bought a used hydraulic shop press. Just couldn't bring myself to keep borrowing someone else's equipment.
Just showing what you can do with minimal money.
Specialized tools?
The reverse gear bearing in the lower unit ended up being bad. It's a Fafnir 209K.