NMEA BACKBONE INSTALLATION - WHERE TO START?

[Windjammer]

ordered a new (and my first) Garmin NMEA Starter Kit and it's supposed to be delivered on Friday. If things line up, I may try to install or at least get started on this, this weekend.
just not sure where to start:
Mount in the engine compartment? Behind the dash? Underneath the dash?
Should it be "switched"? if so, where (buss-bar, EIM)? External fuse?
I do plan to upgrade the C80 and the 2k raddome with Garmin 943 and the digital radar(maybe fantom - suggestions welcomed) and a "better" depth sounder/fishfinder.
Again, this is all new to me and I would prefer to get it right the first time.
Boat is 2006 340 Sundancer.
Thanks

 

[Skybolt]

This is a big question and has been covered many times here. But there's more too it then just connect up to the battery and away you go. The main trunk line should be on a breaker that can support the total amperage being used, or going to be used, on that backbone.

I would start with the backbone behind the helm somewhere, like up in the void behind the dash where the smart craft is. Use a breaker like this: https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Brea...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

And it can be switched if you like or left on. The N2K network can get quite extensive and possibly need multiple spots that can be powered on/off. So starting at the helm is a good place. Is your smart craft converted over to N2K yet? Also another consideration.

Since your going or want to go with Garmin, take a look at the new fantom radar.

 

[Stee6043]

Mine was quite easy. I located it under the dash, used an existing (open) spot in my helm fuse box for power and switched it at the helm via a new switch I added. Zero issues running from the helm to the engine room without any additional power required. It doesn't have to be complicated...mine was a pleasant 30 minute project.

 

[Stee6043]

This is a big question and has been covered many times here. But there's more too it then just connect up to the battery and away you go. The main trunk line should be on a breaker that can support the total amperage being used, or going to be used, on that backbone.

I would start with the backbone behind the helm somewhere, like up in the void behind the dash where the smart craft is. Use a breaker like this: https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Breaker-Automotive-Overload-Protection/dp/B0992D28XP/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.1c86ab1a-a73c-4131-85f1-15bd92ae152d:amzn1.sym.1c86ab1a-a73c-4131-85f1-15bd92ae152d&crid=25J05XTL0GI1M&cv_ct_cx=resettable+breaker&keywords=resettable+breaker&pd_rd_i=B0992D28XP&pd_rd_r=d59e25f7-7621-4bf9-8d2b-e1b156146e18&pd_rd_w=BYDco&pd_rd_wg=G2TB9&pf_rd_p=1c86ab1a-a73c-4131-85f1-15bd92ae152d&pf_rd_r=VK91F0EZ8A6THQVRKYRM&qid=1689881152&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=restable+breaker,aps,148&sr=1-2-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

And it can be switched if you like or left on. The N2K network can get quite extensive and possibly need multiple spots that can be powered on/off. So starting at the helm is a good place. Is your smart craft converted over to N2K yet? Also another consideration.

Since your going or want to go with Garmin, take a look at the new fantom radar.

Holy $hit...a 30A breaker for the NMEA backbone? Dear god...what kind of network are you running? The Garmin starter kit comes with a fuse included. I think it's a couple amps...max

 

[Golfman25]

These guys are all wrong. Frist place to start is at the Liquor store. It's at least a 1 case of beer job (anything but Bud Light), maybe a couple of days.

So here is my saga and my setup. I have one backbone connection in the engine room which takes the fox marine gateways and hopefully soon a new transducer. The second backbone connection is at the helm. Running from the engine room to the helm on my 370 DA was two or three days of frustration. A couple of failed attempts, until I finally found the end of the conduit tucked behind every wire known to man. Once that was accomplished, the rest was easy.

I tied into an unused switch at the helm for power. Like stee said, there is already an inline fuse. Then a drop from the switch to the other T-connectors. Each T goes to each of two Garmin Gps/charplotters (which are also linked via Garmin networking). The Fantom radar is connected to the main GPS unit. The second GPS unit shows the engine information from the gateways. I didn't tie in any of the old raymarine stuff as it is either dead or dying and will be replaced, except the auto pilot. I have the option of running another backbone line to the cabin to tie into a Fusion radio if I decide to go that route. I do switch off when not in use so as to not draw on the battery.

 

[Skybolt]

Holy $hit...a 30A breaker for the NMEA backbone? Dear god...what kind of network are you running? The Garmin starter kit comes with a fuse included. I think it's a couple amps...max

Edit: I did say like this ...

Well you need to add up the total LEN of the network. But doubling that isn't a bad thing either. I have six powered segments and the lowest amp is 5A even though the circuit is much lower. You need to use a breaker that supports the amperage rating of the wire being used.

 

[ttmott]

Have you read this?
https://www.maretron.com/products/pdf/Network Installation Guide.pdf
The fusing that comes with a Garmin or Maretron power tap is a 3 amp fuse. I have 6 amp circuit breakers and fuses in the three NMEA 2000 networks on my boat.

So back to the question - consider what the future holds for your network (your vision/dream) and plan the network location and power tap based upon that. Most start with a small network at the helm but soon it finds legs and grows to the engine room and solon. The second thing I advise is do a drawing of the system and keep that in your files.

 

[Skybolt]

Here's my N2K network from two years ago. It's changed a bit since then.

 

[dtfeld]

I will second using the maretron free software to plan you network. It's pretty easy to learn and you can screw it up all you want for free before spending time/$ at the boat. Cut down on frustration upfront