liv2ryde100
Active Member
Oh wow I didn’t know that, where do I source the bulb and do u know how to replace it?If the rocker switch is working and the bulb is not - you an just replace the bulb, no need to get the entire switch.
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Oh wow I didn’t know that, where do I source the bulb and do u know how to replace it?If the rocker switch is working and the bulb is not - you an just replace the bulb, no need to get the entire switch.
Flounder Pounder - any where that sells the Carling Switches.Oh wow I didn’t know that, where do I source the bulb and do u know how to replace it?
Oh wow I didn’t know that, where do I source the bulb and do u know how to replace it?
Agreed, for $15 and 15 mins of your time it was easier to buy the switch. I believe the part # is VLD1A60BI think if you review the task you will find much easier to just buy a switch and replace it.
-Kevin
Lol nice heads up
For 15$ old one goes in the trash lolAlways looking after your best interests better to spend time on the boat then soldering in tiny LEDs and resistors. Save the old ones and take them apart next winter.
-Kevin
Anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement of the galley faucet? View attachment 103429
Under $50 on Amazon and works great! Relatively simple install.Anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement of the galley faucet? View attachment 103429
Lol even though I suggested this I still can’t believe it, how could the parallel switch bypass the fuse on the starter?Update for anyone paying attention to my ignition issue. It was the 90 amp in-line fuse on the starter motor. Must have blown when I arced the alternator. It also accounted for the elevated charging since the alternator couldn’t sense the battery
Lol even though I suggested this I still can’t believe it, how could the parallel switch bypass the fuse on the starter?
The battery and the yellow/red starter wire connect directly to the starter solenoid. The 90 amp in-line fuse isolates the alternator and main power to the helm/ignition.Lol even though I suggested this I still can’t believe it, how could the parallel switch bypass the fuse on the starter?
Agreed, for $15 and 15 mins of your time it was easier to buy the switch. I believe the part # is VLD1A60B
Kevin do u sell these direct replacements?IIRC, the factory switch was a VLDA but as you noted the VLD1 can and will be substituted many times. The difference was the "A" had plastic separation blades at the terminal connections. Each of these has many variants denoted by the numbers and letters that follow the base part. In short the VLDA or VLD1 should work for this just make sure you select the proper illumination as the base model is not illuminated.
-Kevin
Hello all. I have a generator issue I could use some help on. Kohler 5e. It will start and run fine form the bilge switch. I can shut it down from the cabin panel switch, but it will not turn over or start from there. When I first got the boat 4 years ago, I would have to push the switch several times to get it to work. Now, no amount of pushing works. Is it likely the momentary switch? The off/on switch? The harness connector (wherever that is)? Anyone have any thoughts?