Official 330 Sundancer Thread

I have a 1996 330DA, I am looking for the Sea Ray Part #596072, light single dome white flush mount without switch, or a suitable replacement. I have been looking everywhere with no luck, does anybody have any suggestions?
 
I have a 1996 330DA, I am looking for the Sea Ray Part #596072, light single dome white flush mount without switch, or a suitable replacement. I have been looking everywhere with no luck, does anybody have any suggestions?
Do you have a picture? If it's what ithink it is I have some.
 
This light.
 

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I've got some, but not sure how many. How many do you need?

I upgraded to LED in these fixtures. I just used a 1156 LED bulb and it worked fine.
I only need one, but I found some led fixtures on Amazon I think I’m going to get now. The one I needed was for my starboard storage locker where my city water inlet is so I will just replace both port and starboard locker ones
 
I only need one, but I found some led fixtures on Amazon I think I’m going to get now. The one I needed was for my starboard storage locker where my city water inlet is so I will just replace both port and starboard locker ones
Copy that. If anything changes let me know.

I replaced all of the fixtures in the ER room and all lockers in the cockpit. That's why I have some of the old ones laying around.
 

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Copy that. If anything changes let me know.

I replaced all of the fixtures in the ER room and all lockers in the cockpit. That's why I have some of the old ones laying around.
I like the brightness of that, what did you replace those with? I think I will do that too.
 
I've got some, but not sure how many. How many do you need?

I upgraded to LED in these fixtures. I just used a 1156 LED bulb and it worked fine.
I like the brightness of that, what did you replace those with? I think I will do that too.
 
These are what I used. They are not USCG approved for use in a gasoline engine compartment. Nor are they endorsed by any association or regulating body for use in a marine environment. However, since they are waterproof I felt comfortable using them in the engine room

OPT ILL33CB LED Interior Utility Dome Light Surface Mount 5"

The place I purchased them from no longer carries them, but they are available here OPT ILL33CB
 
Sliding cabin door tracks and trucks update:
Making this easy for those that need to do this repair and a shout out for Boat Outfitters, who sell the tracks and trucks needed. I had trouble finding the right size trucks to order and Boat Outfitters could not tell me what was needed for my 330DA, so based on what I could research, I guessed I needed 4 of the 0.975 high trucks. Well, thanks to @Rizzman I found out that I will need 2 of the 0.975 ones and 2 of the 0.885 ones.

So I called Boat Outfitters, but unfortunately my order was packed and shipped already. But they are sending me a set of the two smaller trucks for free in a separate shipment! Thank you Boat Outfitters! I will be posting a review on their website with the correct parts and referencing the 97 330DA so others will be able to get the right ones. Pricey parts, but will make the door run like new, so worth it IMO.
So I thought I should update for the cabin door trucks and tracks replacement project that I did back in June.

I followed the other guidance on this thread about how to do it and I took some pictures of part of the process.
It wasn't terribly difficult other than getting the trucks and tracks aligned. I had to use some washers as spacers under the upper and lower trucks as well as at the left end of the tracks to get them straight and aligned and to get the door back at the proper running level to close properly, and for the lock to meet the lock clasp. A lot of trial and error. There is no way to adjust the level and alignment of the sliding door other than shimming things. In the end, it works perfectly, smoothly and I actually got the lock mechanism to line up better than the factory.

The door is a bit lower than original so the little clasp that holds the door open when underway doesn't fit right anymore, but it never really worked well anyway. So instead I attached a male canvas snap into the door "frame" area, and made a short nylon webbing strip with a female canvas snap, which is attached to the underside of the door itself (used one of the screws that holds the stainless bar handle on). Now when the door is open, I just snap the strap it too the door frame and it doesn't slide out on its own.

So here are some pictures of part of the process:

You have to remove the cover. There are two screws at the top under plastic screw covers.
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Then there are two screws inside the speaker hole. I removed the speaker.

IMG_3427.jpg



You can see the two screws that have to be removed.
IMG_3428.jpg


Then there are two screws at the bottom that need to be removed. After they are all removed, you may be able to pull the cover off. It is silicone sealed all around the top and left side, so you probably have to cut some of it to get the cover to come off. I was a bit hard because the top left corner is very close to the curved windshield there. I removed enough that I could break it loose. I didn't take a picture but since you have to reseal it after you are done the project, you should clean up as much loose silicone as you can all around.
IMG_3429.jpg


Here is what it looks like when you pull it back. I recommend you get someone to help you move it out onto the dock while you do the repair. Not because its heavy, but its awkward and the underside has some sharp fiberglass. I accidently scuffed it because I tried to do it alone.

Now the door is exposed. I didn't take pictures, but the top trucks are attached under the top edge of the door with two screws each. The lower trucks are attached to the bottom of a u-shaped molding that the door sits in. You can see the molding in the picture below. That molding is attached to the bottom of the door with three screws, one at each end of the door and one in the middle. To take the door out you need to remove three screws that attach the door to the u-shape and then remove the screws for the top trucks. Then the door can be lifted out.
IMG_3430.jpg


EEEEWWW disgusting mold underneath the door that needed to be cleaned up!
Now you can see the u-shaped piece in the lower track. Then you remove the old trucks by sliding the top ones to the right of the track. The lowers are screwed tot he u-shaped part and you unscrew them and slide them to the end of the track so they come out. Keep the left and right and top and bottom separate so you can ensure your new ones match the size of the old. Mine did not, despite getting help with the vendor and some advice on here. There are two sizes, but I still had to shim mine at one side and the top with stainless small washers. It truly was trial and error to get the door running well. You can't raise the door too high (I.e., don't add too many washer shims) because it will then bump the top cover when its installed. I made that mistake and had to take it all apart.
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Then the tracks can be removed. If you look right near the door frame you will see that the track needs to be "notched" out for the track to sit properly. The top one does not. The base for the tracks is not level from the factory and needs to be shimmed to it runs straight. On my boat the top one was the most out of alignment. I used a strip of "Alien tape" to shim the left side on mine. The bottom didn't need to be shimmed.
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Then after everything is aligned and working well, you have to reinstall the cover and re-seal the edge with silicone. I used white marine 3M sealant and did a good job along the top edge and sides. I used wide masking tape to prevent any overlap onto places I didn't want it. Lack of clearance around the top left edge meant I had to work blind and go outside to look back through the glass to see how it was, then back inside to do a bit more. Without masking tape it would have been a god awful mess back there.

Here is a picture of the strap I added to replace the latch that holds the door open. After I did the install of the door, I sprayed the tracks with Silicone spray, and the new tracks/trucks and spray made the door very slick and smooth. So I really needed to have something to hold it open when needed. This is what I did:

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Hi Guys,
As some of you know I sold my 330 last fall. A bittersweet moment for sure. I am posting today to present to you the Unicorn maker! I have these molds to make fiberglass bilge vent covers for those who may need in them the future. I am putting these up for sale so that someone stateside can continue producing these for those in need. I know Tony Clark has the plastic ones he makes over in the UK. Let me know if your interested & make an offer. I'd like to see these go to someone that will be able to help the rest of this community in the future. There are 2 molds, a left & a right. Thanks & Happy Boating!!
17002643269107038541671697573125.jpg
 
Has anyone put a memory foam mattress in their mid berth and if so, what size, twin?
 
Has anyone put a memory foam mattress in their mid berth and if so, what size, twin?
I started with a double but had to cut it down. A kitchen electric knife is what will cut it best. Getting sheets to stay in is a PIA. i need to figure out a better way to fit and change the bedding in that berth.
 
Hi Guys,
As some of you know I sold my 330 last fall. A bittersweet moment for sure. I am posting today to present to you the Unicorn maker! I have these molds to make fiberglass bilge vent covers for those who may need in them the future. I am putting these up for sale so that someone stateside can continue producing these for those in need. I know Tony Clark has the plastic ones he makes over in the UK. Let me know if your interested & make an offer. I'd like to see these go to someone that will be able to help the rest of this community in the future. There are 2 molds, a left & a right. Thanks & Happy Boating!!View attachment 154381
just checking to see if anyone has bought these yet? I'm not interested in buying them but I sure would like to have a port side one made. Any help will be appreciated...Thanks, GaryO
 
just checking to see if anyone has bought these yet? I'm not interested in buying them but I sure would like to have a port side one made. Any help will be appreciated...Thanks, GaryO
 

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