Official 380 Thread

370Dancer said:
this is the 370, but I'll bet it's the same or very similar. Looks like an inline 1 amp fuse located behind the 12V distribution panel in the salon. It will be hanging off the +12v Buss bar.
View attachment 143899
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Unfortunately I opened both distribution panels and was not able to find an inline fuse in there.
So back to trying to find a fuse for the CO monitors that possibly may have tripped. There are two monitors on the boat. One in the galley up high above cabinet and one in the forward birth mounted on the wall. The one in the galley is energized and the one in the birth has no power. The unit is of current design and new. If it is the fuse, would there be a separate one for each detector or are they tied together? I have portable CO monitors on board but really want to fix the stationary one to bring it into spec with the USCG.
Any information is appreciated.
 
mrsrobinson said:
For those who have upgraded their cockpit lights to LED, what brand and model number did you use? I found this thread. I only want to replace the bulbs though:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/cockpit-arch-ledlights-replacements.90142/
Click to expand...

I recently installed these blue bulbs from lightinthebox.com. We really like them.


proxy

10pcs LED Festoon Dome 31mm 36mm 39mm 41mm c5w 212-2 6418 White Warm White Blue Reading License Plate Lamp led Light Bulb 12V
Light Source Color:Blue 3C_Connection:41mm
USD $4.99 ​
1 ​
 
Fire extinguisher question. Posting here due to the space constraints for mounting in a 380.
The old engine bay fire extinguisher is a Sea-Fire Marine G500A Halon unit. These are no longer mfg or sold.
The replacement unit is 27" tall vs the original being 17".
What have others done to mount the updated fire extinguisher?
IMG_0688.jpeg
 
Mauler34Rod said:
Unfortunately I opened both distribution panels and was not able to find an inline fuse in there.
So back to trying to find a fuse for the CO monitors that possibly may have tripped. There are two monitors on the boat. One in the galley up high above cabinet and one in the forward birth mounted on the wall. The one in the galley is energized and the one in the birth has no power. The unit is of current design and new. If it is the fuse, would there be a separate one for each detector or are they tied together? I have portable CO monitors on board but really want to fix the stationary one to bring it into spec with the USCG.
Any information is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Mine does not have a 2nd unit. I wonder if that was added. Try turning on all lights, etc in the stateroom to see if the installer tapped into a 12v that is not always on. Seems like you could back track from the unit to see where it's getting power.
If the 380 is standard with 2 sensors, erase this answer.
 
Not sure what is standard, I was assuming my 2001 380DA came standard with two units. There is just two wires protruding from a small hole in the wall where it mounts. I originally was going to try to trace those wires, but it appears I would need to remove that wall panel and so trying to take path of least resistance in looking for a fuse first.
Any thoughts are welcome.
 
SCFoster said:
Fire extinguisher question. Posting here due to the space constraints for mounting in a 380.
The old engine bay fire extinguisher is a Sea-Fire Marine G500A Halon unit. These are no longer mfg or sold.
The replacement unit is 27" tall vs the original being 17".
What have others done to mount the updated fire extinguisher?
View attachment 145058
Click to expand...

Do you know what's wrong with yours, or just trying to update while doing the renovation?

There have been several threads about this over the last couple years, all had the same issue, new systems way too big to fit. The best I remember, the recommendation is to take it to a local fire extinguisher company and see if its serviceable. If it isn't leaking/empty, it may be good to go.
 
dtfeld said:
Do you know what's wrong with yours, or just trying to update while doing the renovation?

There have been several threads about this over the last couple years, all had the same issue, new systems way too big to fit. The best I remember, the recommendation is to take it to a local fire extinguisher company and see if it's serviceable. If it isn't leaking/empty, it may be good to go.
Click to expand...

The OEM bottle is ancient and there are zero entries on the service tag.

When I was in the supply business, the local shops would do me a solid (like the precious canisters of Freon I still have). However, nobody is servicing the halon extinguishers for a retail customer. If I find otherwise, I'll post.
I'm thinking I can install after both engines are back in, using a block to provide clearance past the cable management conduit under the extinguisher and Raycors.
 
One thought, don't know if it would work, or be acceptable...

There is a lot of area outboard of the cockpit both port and starboard under the engine air inlets. There is solid plywood flooring, and I've always thought it would be useful space for something. Add a custom door behind the transom door, and mount in there on the port side.

Of course the downside is that area is more exposed to water/salt, but you might be able to cover it up to protect it?
 
Good morning
I am wondering if anybody knows where I can purchase a new electric actuator for the front vent window on my 38 Sundancer

Thanks
 
Michaelt0322 said:
Good morning
I am wondering if anybody knows where I can purchase a new electric actuator for the front vent window on my 38 Sundancer

Thanks
Click to expand...
Before you buy a new one, see if you can get it to actuate by gently pushing/pulling on the cross bar while someone actuates the switch, and get some oil onto/into the strut. They get gummed up and need a little TLC every so often.
 
Mauler34Rod said:
View attachment 143071
Noticed this while cleaning the bilge. I’m having the marina mechanics take a look. If replacement is necessary, first is it labor intensive and second what is approximate cost for a muffler? Getting myself ready for a few boat bucks.:confused:
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Sorry for the late response. Mine leaked when I got the boat as the top seam was separating. I got a West kit and some epoxy black dye. I fiber glassed the top seam where it was leaking and coated the entire muffler with dyed black epoxy. On my 6th season and no issues. I think it was like 25 bucks for the kit and 5 bucks for the dye. Looked like factory when I was done maybe a tad shinier.
 
370Dancer said:
this is the 370, but I'll bet it's the same or very similar. Looks like an inline 1 amp fuse located behind the 12V distribution panel in the salon. It will be hanging off the +12v Buss bar.
View attachment 143899
Click to expand...
This is correct, when I changed my detectors a few years ago I accidently grounded out the wires and popped the fuse, I could not believe it was an inline fuse but changed them and they where back up and running.
 
Michaelt0322 said:
Good morning
I am wondering if anybody knows where I can purchase a new electric actuator for the front vent window on my 38 Sundancer

Thanks
Click to expand...
I remember seeing this a while back. If you search this forum I believe it is a common form factor you can get on ebay or amazon. They are inexpensive as well.
 
NespoJoe said:
Here's a question for the CSR group...I have a Norcold DE0061 and need to replace the front panel inserts. 2 emails and a voicemail to Norcold over the past week to check availability and no reply. Anyone know a good source? Ideally, I'd like to get Cherry panels. TIA
Click to expand...
it is called Cherry Burl veneer, I did some research a while back it it was super expensive for a sheet. I think someone did a group buy a while back but TBH, what I would do it find a local metal distribution shop and just get thin stainless steel sheets cut and it will give it a fresh facelift vs the cherry burl.
 
tdb380Ray said:
This is correct, when I changed my detectors a few years ago I accidently grounded out the wires and popped the fuse, I could not believe it was an inline fuse but changed them and they where back up and running.
Click to expand...
Where was the fuse? I have not been able to find it.
 
tdb380Ray said:
Sorry for the late response. Mine leaked when I got the boat as the top seam was separating. I got a West kit and some epoxy black dye. I fiber glassed the top seam where it was leaking and coated the entire muffler with dyed black epoxy. On my 6th season and no issues. I think it was like 25 bucks for the kit and 5 bucks for the dye. Looked like factory when I was done maybe a tad shinier.
Click to expand...
Thanks that is what I ended up doing. A new muffler was 3 months back ordered, so I patched her up.
 
So generator has been running fine. Used it twice while out on the lake to run AC and accessories. Today I noticed a sheen on top of the water and traced it back to the generator exhaust. It was pulsating like it typically does but it was bleching black soot which was also on the side of the boat where it exits.
I shut it off.
Anybody have any ideas of what is going on with it?
 
Mauler34Rod said:
So generator has been running fine. Used it twice while out on the lake to run AC and accessories. Today I noticed a sheen on top of the water and traced it back to the generator exhaust. It was pulsating like it typically does but it was bleching black soot which was also on the side of the boat where it exits.
I shut it off.
Anybody have any ideas of what is going on with it?
Click to expand...
Change the spark plugs. Should be done every year anyways.
 
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