Official 400EC thread

[TitanTn]

Excellent idea and I'll likely do the same...but don't my motors spin opposite directions? If so, does the impeller orientation matter (which way I lay the impeller vanes in as I insert it into the housing), or will the vanes "reorient" themselves to the proper direction no matter which motor it's installed on? Thanks

Actually your engines MIGHT both rotate the same direction and the change of direction is handled by the transmissions. Both methods were used on different configurations.

Impeller vane placement doesn’t matter. All of the vanes will end up turning the direction they need to.

 

[BostonPaul]

Hey guys, I tried to do a search in our group and also the general discussion with no luck. 94 400EC with Bluewater carbureted 7.4 motors. We lost the port motor Saturday due to fuel flow. It will stay running with starting fluid sprayed into carb, or if I let it sit for 5 minutes or so it'll start and idle for several seconds until it starves for fuel again. So it's getting fuel, just not nearly enough. I took off the short line between the motor-mounted filter housing outlet and the fuel pump, the pump has suction but I'm not sure if it's the proper amount? I also did just fill both tanks, so I'm wondering if maybe a clogged tank vent and hardly any air space in the tank would keep the fuel from being drawn in by the pump?

Anyway, I'm going to refresh the fuel systems this afternoon when I get off work. I'll be changing out all the filters and also plan to remove the seawater/fuel pump assemblies on both motors so I can put in new raw water impellers and clean out/lube their fuel pumps (done some online research but never done impellers or messed with the pulley-driven fuel pumps so this will be a learning experience LOL).

My question is... aside from welcoming any tips on the impellers or fuel pump work... does anybody happen to know the part numbers for the screw-on fuel filters, both the motor mounted ones and the two that are back by the tank selector switches? My marina is 30 minutes away, I would rather not have to make a trip down there just to get filter part numbers LOL. Thanks in advance!

I also have a 94 and the fuel filters I have used are the following

Fuel Filter

· Quicksilver 35-802893Q

· Sierra 18-7945

· Fram PS3808

· AC TP1239

 

[BostonPaul]

I also have a 94 and the fuel filters I have used are the following

Fuel Filter

· Quicksilver 35-802893Q

· Sierra 18-7945

· Fram PS3808

· AC TP1239

Sorry, these are the screw on type mounted on the engine.

 

[TALON]

Sierra part # is 18-7944
90 GPH/ 10 micron filtration

 

[sws01]

... does anybody happen to know the part numbers for the screw-on fuel filters, both the motor mounted ones and the two that are back by the tank selector switches? My marina is 30 minutes away, I would rather not have to make a trip down there just to get filter part numbers LOL. Thanks in advance!

I was asking myself the same question a few weeks ago (for similar symptoms, about which more later). Based on my research - and subsequent installations, both the engine mounted fuel filters and the ones mounted on the outboard side of the fuel switch panel require the same part. My info is that the Mercruiser part number is 35-802893-Q01 (I think someone already gave that) and that the equivalent Sierra products are either 18-7845 or 18-7945. I think someone else said the Sierra one may be 18-7955. That shows as being only the filter element itself. In any case, the specs in terms of GPH are the same and all the filters I mentioned meet that 90 GPH requirement.

NOW . . . to the potential problem. My starboard engine would not keep running after it had run for a few minutes. Port engine ran fine. Switched the s/b engine to draw from port tank and IT WORKED. So now, it seems like something unique to the s/b tank. I'm thinking it's either (as you mentioned) the vent line OR it could be the anti-siphon valve, which have been known to clog. It's mounted on top of the fuel tank in the fuel line to the filter. It's fairly easy to get to and I intend to replace it after I get a good look at (and a few pictures of) it when I'm at the boat this weekend. These valves usually run about $10-$20 and can be replaced by the average DIY-er.


Good luck.

 

[markrsimon]

Q: Why would both filters be the same? I would think the fuel selector panel would be a true fuel filter, while the engine mounted would be a fuel/water separator.

 

[Nick Hahn]

So its (past) time to replace the vent window seal:

Had to cut out a piece to try to see what the profile was supposed to look like:

Found a similar profile on Flounder Pounder:

Hopefully it will be a match!
Any suggestions on installation? Sealing the mitered corners? "Glueing" the new profile back in - it looked like the old profile had some silicone or similar sealant behind it.

Got the new seal installed - removed the vent window actuator and tipped it up for better clearance - found out that the window will drop out the bottom of the hinge - a little surprised, but no damage done!
Cut the new pieces to length, mitered the corners - a sharp razor blade did a nice job - fit them into the channels. They fit tight. I was planning to put some silicone behind the gaskets as there was some old nasty behind the originals, but as tight as they fit I didn't think it was necessary. ( Hopefully I won't regret that. ) I did silicone/seal the mitered joint. New seal looks great! The hinge profile slid onto the window channel, I installed the window and it snapped into the frame channel. Have used it quite a few times and it has stayed in place!

 

[TitanTn]

Got the new seal installed - removed the vent window actuator and tipped it up for better clearance - found out that the window will drop out the bottom of the hinge - a little surprised, but no damage done!
Cut the new pieces to length, mitered the corners - a sharp razor blade did a nice job - fit them into the channels. They fit tight. I was planning to put some silicone behind the gaskets as there was some old nasty behind the originals, but as tight as they fit I didn't think it was necessary. ( Hopefully I won't regret that. ) I did silicone/seal the mitered joint. New seal looks great! The hinge profile slid onto the window channel, I installed the window and it snapped into the frame channel. Have used it quite a few times and it has stayed in place!

Show us some pics of the results!

 

[Eluther3]

I would really love to have some fuel flow meters, but I'm getting some conflicting information. Some say it is a difficult install on a 1992 boat with 7.4 mercs. Any of you have them on an older boat?

If so, is it something an average person can install?

 

[Nick Hahn]

I would really love to have some fuel flow meters, but I'm getting some conflicting information. Some say it is a difficult install on a 1992 boat with 7.4 mercs. Any of you have them on an older boat?

If so, is it something an average person can install?

I've been looking at Interactio - their website is offline now though "they are being acquired". Looked to be a fairly easy install - but it "talks" to a smarphone app, not directly to your instruments. Maybe the new company will offer additional integrations.

 

[markrsimon]

I would really love to have some fuel flow meters, but I'm getting some conflicting information. Some say it is a difficult install on a 1992 boat with 7.4 mercs. Any of you have them on an older boat?

If so, is it something an average person can install?

I picked up a set of Garmin GFS-10 fuel flow sensors. I think the only difficult piece is locating a place to put the meters. In my case, I put them under the tank selector switches (port/aft side). Specifically, I pulled the hose from the tank selector switch that runs to the filter (6" section). Picked up some threaded/barbed adapters, hose clamps, small section of marine fuel line, and tied it all together. The Garmin instructions have a preference towards vertical mounting - so any air bubble float up through the unit. If it wasn't for that - I may have placed them in the long run from that panel to the engine - although that would have been a tight fit too up against the deck. These are N2K unit, and I'm still finishing up the MFD portion to read the data - so cant provide any feedback on effectiveness yet. N2K made it easier for me to tie in multiple components, run a single cable up to the helm, and alleviates (in most cases) the need to provide power in the ER. DIY - definitely.

 

[TitanTn]

I also have used the Garmin GFS-10 sensors connected to a NMEA2K network. It was a very easy project.

 

[Fun Hurts]

Finally bit the bullet and purchased replacement batteries, the old ones that came with the boat purchase being mismatched, out of date, and not holding a consistent charge. Ended up buying group 27. Spoke with a couple of "battery guys" at a couple of different locations, and apparently there is a shortage of group 31 batteries.
Both said when Covid hit, there was a run on boat purchases (mostly pre-owned), so naturally everyone buying boats also bought new batteries, mostly 31's. There literally is not a 31-series battery to be found in our market, aside from the grossly expensive lithium ion version.
Swapping batteries is pretty straightforward, but anything I should be aware of other than disconnecting shore and shutting off the battery switches before switching them out? Thanks - Todd

 

[techmitch]

Finally bit the bullet and purchased replacement batteries, the old ones that came with the boat purchase being mismatched, out of date, and not holding a consistent charge. Ended up buying group 27. Spoke with a couple of "battery guys" at a couple of different locations, and apparently there is a shortage of group 31 batteries.
Both said when Covid hit, there was a run on boat purchases (mostly pre-owned), so naturally everyone buying boats also bought new batteries, mostly 31's. There literally is not a 31-series battery to be found in our market, aside from the grossly expensive lithium ion version.
Swapping batteries is pretty straightforward, but anything I should be aware of other than disconnecting shore and shutting off the battery switches before switching them out? Thanks - Todd

Negative off first and back on last.

 

[markrsimon]

Finally bit the bullet and purchased replacement batteries, the old ones that came with the boat purchase being mismatched, out of date, and not holding a consistent charge. Ended up buying group 27. Spoke with a couple of "battery guys" at a couple of different locations, and apparently there is a shortage of group 31 batteries.
Both said when Covid hit, there was a run on boat purchases (mostly pre-owned), so naturally everyone buying boats also bought new batteries, mostly 31's. There literally is not a 31-series battery to be found in our market, aside from the grossly expensive lithium ion version.
Swapping batteries is pretty straightforward, but anything I should be aware of other than disconnecting shore and shutting off the battery switches before switching them out? Thanks - Todd

Take a picture or two, incase you have challenges figuring out how the cables get routed, and which two batteries get connected together. Its really not that complicated, but it doesn't hurt to have a picture handy - especially if you have extra wires connected.

I also label my batteries (p-touch labels) - so I can reinstall in the same places - mainly because I remove them at the end of every season.

Most Important - do you have a newer style battery charger, or the original one that came with the boat? You need the newer multistage charger so it doesnt cook you new batteries.

 

[Fun Hurts]

Take a picture or two, incase you have challenges figuring out how the cables get routed, and which two batteries get connected together. Its really not that complicated, but it doesn't hurt to have a picture handy - especially if you have extra wires connected.

I also label my batteries (p-touch labels) - so I can reinstall in the same places - mainly because I remove them at the end of every season.

Most Important - do you have a newer style battery charger, or the original one that came with the boat? You need the newer multistage charger so it doesnt cook you new batteries.

Newer charger. Like, installed new a year ago. Which was potentially a problem, as the surveyor told me using a new charger on our old batteries could damage the charger.
Installation was pretty simple, other than it being a billion degrees and straining my milk lifting the old batteries out.

The best part is knowing I've got reliable starting power. Previously it was a little sketch, and on a couple of occasions I had to use the "emergency start". This weekend we coved out both days, stereo all day, fridge ran continuously, and both motors turned over with zero issue. Best money we've spent yet. Out with the old:

In with the new:

 

[Fun Hurts]

New question re: steering. I've searched the forum and didn't see this addressed, so I apologize if it's a duplicate inquiry.

The steering seems to becoming increasingly stiff, both at idle and cruising, with an actual intermittent "creaking" when I turn the wheel. I'm assuming the small screw-cap on top and at the base of the (very short) steering column is for the addition of steering fluid. Could someone please confirm that for me?

Moving forward with my assumption, what kind of fluid do you use? How much? How do you know when it's full (or over-full)? Or have I completely missed the mark on this and I should be looking in a different direction?

As always, thanks for your input - T

 

[markrsimon]

Newer charger. Like, installed new a year ago. Which was potentially a problem, as the surveyor told me using a new charger on our old batteries could damage the charger.
Installation was pretty simple, other than it being a billion degrees and straining my milk lifting the old batteries out.

The best part is knowing I've got reliable starting power. Previously it was a little sketch, and on a couple of occasions I had to use the "emergency start". This weekend we coved out both days, stereo all day, fridge ran continuously, and both motors turned over with zero issue. Best money we've spent yet. Out with the old:View attachment 107512

In with the new:
View attachment 107513

Looks great! I'm glad you took pictures. Looks like you've got two extra batteries there on the house bank, and a set of wires for the stereo. Luckily you've got some red/black tape on those cables. I'm guessing you have a generator -- did you replace that battery as well?

As a suggestion for the house bank - can you get the red boat cable that comes from the battery switches -- which is currently on the AFT battery -- can you move that up to the middle battery? The result would be that both boat cables are on that middle battery. With one boat cable on each battery (current state) -- when you start the STBD side engine, its pulling current across those two batteries - which flows across the jumpers. The concern isn't the size of the jumpers - the concern is that they are attached to the smaller hex nut terminals - and the amount of surface area those provide, is far less compared to the standard terminal post. Its a minor change, should take a few minutes, but would serve you better for engine starting purposes.

Looks like you might have switched from sealed lead acid, to regular lead acid. Good rule of thumb is to check your water levels in the battery twice a year, or perhaps more considering your a bit further south than I am. Distilled water only.

I cant imagine a new charger hurting old batteries - unless the charger is set wrong. Most newer chargers have different profiles (settings) depending on the batteries its connected to (flooded, sealed, AGM, GEL, etc). Check to make sure yours is set correctly - given it looks like you switched from sealed to flooded. Make sure the generator battery is the same chemistry, as the battery charger only has one setting -- so all batteries must match.

If you can find some battery terminal covers for those hex nut terminals - that would be a plus.

Glad to hear you got to enjoy the boat.

 

[Fun Hurts]

Looks great! I'm glad you took pictures. Looks like you've got two extra batteries there on the house bank, and a set of wires for the stereo. Luckily you've got some red/black tape on those cables. I'm guessing you have a generator -- did you replace that battery as well?

As a suggestion for the house bank - can you get the red boat cable that comes from the battery switches -- which is currently on the AFT battery -- can you move that up to the middle battery? The result would be that both boat cables are on that middle battery. With one boat cable on each battery (current state) -- when you start the STBD side engine, its pulling current across those two batteries - which flows across the jumpers. The concern isn't the size of the jumpers - the concern is that they are attached to the smaller hex nut terminals - and the amount of surface area those provide, is far less compared to the standard terminal post. Its a minor change, should take a few minutes, but would serve you better for engine starting purposes.

Looks like you might have switched from sealed lead acid, to regular lead acid. Good rule of thumb is to check your water levels in the battery twice a year, or perhaps more considering your a bit further south than I am. Distilled water only.

I cant imagine a new charger hurting old batteries - unless the charger is set wrong. Most newer chargers have different profiles (settings) depending on the batteries its connected to (flooded, sealed, AGM, GEL, etc). Check to make sure yours is set correctly - given it looks like you switched from sealed to flooded. Make sure the generator battery is the same chemistry, as the battery charger only has one setting -- so all batteries must match.

If you can find some battery terminal covers for those hex nut terminals - that would be a plus.

Glad to hear you got to enjoy the boat.

Thanks for the advice! I'll take a look at your suggestions. I'm reasonably knowledgeable re: battery setups, but most of my experience is with our prior boats, which both had only two batteries. A little education is always a good thing. My confidence wasn't high enough to make any modifications from the prior setup, although having taken it all apart and reassembling the cables made me a lot more familiar with what they had going on.

I did not swap the genset battery, as it is turning over the generator without issue. Although it's another bullet I should bite and change it as well.

I'll have to go back and read the surveyors notes about the charger. I think (IIRC) his concern *was* with having different types/sizes of batteries linked together. It was a mixed bag of batteries, for sure. Not to mention in the top bank of 3 batteries, the two on the right had swollen, like they had overheated at some point.

Thanks again, always appreciate the input.

 

[sws01]

New question re: steering. I've searched the forum and didn't see this addressed, so I apologize if it's a duplicate inquiry.

The steering seems to becoming increasingly stiff, both at idle and cruising, with an actual intermittent "creaking" when I turn the wheel. I'm assuming the small screw-cap on top and at the base of the (very short) steering column is for the addition of steering fluid. Could someone please confirm that for me?

Moving forward with my assumption, what kind of fluid do you use? How much? How do you know when it's full (or over-full)? Or have I completely missed the mark on this and I should be looking in a different direction?

As always, thanks for your input - T

/

You are correct about that location being the fill and vent. Owners Manual Chapter 3 says use hydraulic oil meeting Mil Spec H-5606A and fill to within 1/2" of filler hole.

On mine I don't think I can see down a half inch. Please post your results if you can. Good luck.