Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

[The Bill Collector]

I saw an older friend at the Yacht Club meeting on Wednesday evening, who has a 450 SD w/ 3126's. He started telling me about this past weekend, Rod & his wife had loaded up the boat after not being out for 3-4 months. They got all prepped and the port engine turned over, but it would not kick on & run. I told him about my experience with a similar issue. I told him about these great guys on this forum (FW & Barlow) who told me about this 12-volt relay in the box at the head of the engine. I asked him what time he could meet me on Sunday (today) at his boat and he says noon... I bought a new relay at O'Reilly's on Thursday and swung by my boat and grabbed my fused jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. I meet him at his boat today, I first had him turn it over and yes confirmed no combustion. I then put on my jumper to the positive side of the fuel solenoid, tapped 12v positive on a battery & bam the solenoid slammed back. I asked him to turn it over again, and it fired right up purred like a kitty, I asked him to kill it, but it kept running as I had forgotten that you have to pull the wire off to get it to die. (we laughed about that) I then swapped out the relay and re-fired the engine again purring... He tried to pay me and I said no several times. I said someday I may ask you for a favor, that day may never come, but remember if it does you can't say no...(we laughed again) PS: starboard tried to run but wouldn't stay running, fuel primer pump was unscrewed.

 

[dtfeld]

I saw an older friend at the Yacht Club meeting on Wednesday evening, who has a 450 SD w/ 3126's. He started telling me about this past weekend, Rod & his wife had loaded up the boat after not being out for 3-4 months. They got all prepped and the port engine turned over, but it would not kick on & run. I told him about my experience with a similar issue. I told him about these great guys on this forum (FW & Barlow) who told me about this 12-volt relay in the box at the head of the engine. I asked him what time he could meet me on Sunday (today) at his boat and he says noon... I bought a new relay at O'Reilly's on Thursday and swung by my boat and grabbed my fused jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. I meet him at his boat today, I first had him turn it over and yes confirmed no combustion. I then put on my jumper to the positive side of the fuel solenoid, tapped 12v positive on a battery & bam the solenoid slammed back. I asked him to turn it over again, and it fired right up purred like a kitty, I asked him to kill it, but it kept running as I had forgotten that you have to pull the wire off to get it to die. (we laughed about that) I then swapped out the relay and re-fired the engine again purring... He tried to pay me and I said no several times. I said someday I may ask you for a favor, that day may never come, but remember if it does you can't say no...(we laughed again) PS: starboard tried to run but wouldn't stay running, fuel primer pump was unscrewed.

Good work! We all can use a hand now and then.

 

[Pgeee]

There shouldn't be any crankcase fumes in the engine room. There should be air flowing into that little filter not gasses out.

my setup is the old pre walker, so the blowby that gets past the crankcase breather (which only has the mesh filter and not the little stick up one on top), ends up squirted into the main air filter which is the old cylindrical form. It's not a physical connection to the air filter. there is a small gap between the outlet from the engine and the air filter. The mist gets blasted across that gap (open air) into the foam of the air filter. One would think the suck from the air filter gets most or all of it but the concept is flawed having that gap. Walker air separators get over this, but I am not about to upgrade to Walker when everything is working sweetly, i just hate the fact that there is some venting albeit minimal, into the ER.

I read it's common generally in the Diesel world per se, to have a blowby catch can which you just empty every now and then. This has the advantage of not sending anything at all from the crankcase back thru the engine . a very cheap alternative to the walker option and better for the engines

 

[Ooli]

I actually switched to the maretron. I removed the plug the aftercoolers right before the heater block.
Thanks again

Hello all,

I am also attempting to add a Maretron system to pickup and transfer Boost, EGT, Fuel Pressure and Gear oil Temperature data to my helm.

I have reached out to Maretron to find out what I need to order but have received this response.

“You would be looking for an analog to NMEA 2000® gateway.
Maretron had discontinued the EMS100, roughly 8-9 years ago and longer offer this type of solution.

We would encourage looking into the following products as a potential solution.
Actisense EMU-1 https://actisense.com/products/emu-1-nmea-2000-engine-data/
NoLand RS11 https://nolandeng.com/product/rs11-canbus-engine-data-converter/
AlbaCombi https://www.albacombi.com/

As soon as you bring the Engine Dat on your NMEA 2000® network, now you are able to choose your desired display options.”

Before I commit to any of these three options I thought I would inquire with the collective to see if anyone has experience with any of the above or if there are any other products that are functioning successfully.

Thanks!

 

[ttmott]

Hello all,

I am also attempting to add a Maretron system to pickup and transfer Boost, EGT, Fuel Pressure and Gear oil Temperature data to my helm.

I have reached out to Maretron to find out what I need to order but have received this response.

“You would be looking for an analog to NMEA 2000® gateway.
Maretron had discontinued the EMS100, roughly 8-9 years ago and longer offer this type of solution.

We would encourage looking into the following products as a potential solution.
Actisense EMU-1 https://actisense.com/products/emu-1-nmea-2000-engine-data/
NoLand RS11 https://nolandeng.com/product/rs11-canbus-engine-data-converter/
AlbaCombi https://www.albacombi.com/

As soon as you bring the Engine Dat on your NMEA 2000® network, now you are able to choose your desired display options.”

Before I commit to any of these three options I thought I would inquire with the collective to see if anyone has experience with any of the above or if there are any other products that are functioning successfully.

Thanks!

Actually Maretron does have the interfaces to get all of the data you listed onto your NMEA 2000 network.
Their TPM100 is six channels for temperature. Channels 1 and 2 are compatible for EGT.
The FPM100 is six channels for pressure. Just about any commercial two wire 4-20ma transducer will work.
Their RIM100 is six channels for discrete (on/off) monitoring.
Be aware that not all of these devices transmit universal PGN's that all of your NMEA2000 devices can interpret; the RIM100 is one of these. The TPM100 and FPM100 both have a menu of acceptable PGN's, setting it up so all of your devices can understand needs to be done. So get the literature from the Maretron web to understand.

 

[dtfeld]

Hello all,

I am also attempting to add a Maretron system to pickup and transfer Boost, EGT, Fuel Pressure and Gear oil Temperature data to my helm.

I have reached out to Maretron to find out what I need to order but have received this response.

“You would be looking for an analog to NMEA 2000® gateway.
Maretron had discontinued the EMS100, roughly 8-9 years ago and longer offer this type of solution.

We would encourage looking into the following products as a potential solution.
Actisense EMU-1 https://actisense.com/products/emu-1-nmea-2000-engine-data/
NoLand RS11 https://nolandeng.com/product/rs11-canbus-engine-data-converter/
AlbaCombi https://www.albacombi.com/

As soon as you bring the Engine Dat on your NMEA 2000® network, now you are able to choose your desired display options.”

Before I commit to any of these three options I thought I would inquire with the collective to see if anyone has experience with any of the above or if there are any other products that are functioning successfully.

Thanks!

I have gone all N2K, but its a HUGE engineering project. --> http://www.seagauge.com/.

Orlando has a bunch of experience with several of those units, might touch base with him @SKybolt.

To add what your asking for is pretty easy with Maretron. However, I would skip fuel pressure (just not that critical) and substitute gear pressure which IS critical. I have a Maretron display that has EGT/Boost and gear pressure/temp. I think it's an oversight on Sea ray's part not to monitor these parameters

 

[Skybolt]

Hello all,

I am also attempting to add a Maretron system to pickup and transfer Boost, EGT, Fuel Pressure and Gear oil Temperature data to my helm.

I have reached out to Maretron to find out what I need to order but have received this response.

“You would be looking for an analog to NMEA 2000® gateway.
Maretron had discontinued the EMS100, roughly 8-9 years ago and longer offer this type of solution.

We would encourage looking into the following products as a potential solution.
Actisense EMU-1 https://actisense.com/products/emu-1-nmea-2000-engine-data/
NoLand RS11 https://nolandeng.com/product/rs11-canbus-engine-data-converter/
AlbaCombi https://www.albacombi.com/

As soon as you bring the Engine Dat on your NMEA 2000® network, now you are able to choose your desired display options.”

Before I commit to any of these three options I thought I would inquire with the collective to see if anyone has experience with any of the above or if there are any other products that are functioning successfully.

Thanks!

Rather then repeat myself on this, please take a look at this thread: http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/actisense-emu-1-engine-converter-analog-to-digital.101609/

I have tried every, yes every possible choice there is and a few that never really made it to market. Actisense is the only way to go.

If you take the time to read through that thread and the one over at THT, you will see how I ended up where I did. Please post any questions in the other thread so we don't clog this up with all of that.

 

[Saverio]

Rather then repeat myself on this, please take a look at this thread: http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/actisense-emu-1-engine-converter-analog-to-digital.101609/

I have tried every, yes every possible choice there is and a few that never really made it to market. Actisense is the only way to go.

If you take the time to read through that thread and the one over at THT, you will see how I ended up where I did. Please post any questions in the other thread so we don't clog this up with all of that.

I saw an older friend at the Yacht Club meeting on Wednesday evening, who has a 450 SD w/ 3126's. He started telling me about this past weekend, Rod & his wife had loaded up the boat after not being out for 3-4 months. They got all prepped and the port engine turned over, but it would not kick on & run. I told him about my experience with a similar issue. I told him about these great guys on this forum (FW & Barlow) who told me about this 12-volt relay in the box at the head of the engine. I asked him what time he could meet me on Sunday (today) at his boat and he says noon... I bought a new relay at O'Reilly's on Thursday and swung by my boat and grabbed my fused jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. I meet him at his boat today, I first had him turn it over and yes confirmed no combustion. I then put on my jumper to the positive side of the fuel solenoid, tapped 12v positive on a battery & bam the solenoid slammed back. I asked him to turn it over again, and it fired right up purred like a kitty, I asked him to kill it, but it kept running as I had forgotten that you have to pull the wire off to get it to die. (we laughed about that) I then swapped out the relay and re-fired the engine again purring... He tried to pay me and I said no several times. I said someday I may ask you for a favor, that day may never come, but remember if it does you can't say no...(we laughed again) PS: starboard tried to run but wouldn't stay running, fuel primer pump was unscrewed.

Do you have a diagram of where you installed the jumpers

 

[dtfeld]

Do you have a diagram of where you installed the jumpers

In your control box buried deep down, there are 2 terminal strips with numbered terminals. #2 should have a yellow/red stripe #14 wire. That is power for the Energize To Run Fuel solenoid. 12V on #2 there should actuate the Fuel solenoid.

I have the schematics of the control box if that would help It also has the starter and air heater solenoids. I've found this pretty useful. PM if interested.

 

[The Bill Collector]

Do you have a diagram of where you installed the jumpers

Fused jumpers, there are two posts on the solenoid the one closer to the engine block is positive & and I marked mine with a plus sign... I always connect to the solenoid 1st and then the 12v positive battery.

 

[Ooli]

I have gone all N2K, but its a HUGE engineering project. --> http://www.seagauge.com/.

Orlando has a bunch of experience with several of those units, might touch base with him @SKybolt.

To add what you’re asking for is pretty easy with Maretron. However, I would skip fuel pressure (just not that critical) and substitute gear pressure which IS critical. I have a Maretron display that has EGT/Boost and gear pressure/temp. I think it's an oversight on Sea ray's part not to monitor these parameters

Thanks David, Orlando and TT,

I am just a little before square one with this project and so far I only have the 3/4 STOR - 16 to 1/4 NPT adaptor for the boost pressure. What I am looking for to begin with is the receiving/sending unit that plugs into that adaptor. I know the placement for the EGT but require that sensor as well. Not sure of either the placement or sensor required for gear temperature and pressure as well.

Thanks Orlando, I’m pretty sure I’m not the only one that appreciates you posting all of your research into this as it appears that the EMU-1 may be a good interface to look into.

 

[Strecker25]

Completed the injector swap on our noisy starboard side today. No noticeable carbon tracing past the seals or on the cups so it would seem we had one or more worn injectors and potentially out of sync.

we replaced injectors, set sync, set fuel, set overhead, etc. should be good now

Videos don’t really do much justice but the higher pitch knocking is gone and the engine runs well under no load. Have not been able to run the boat just yet

 

[techmitch]

Completed the injector swap on our noisy starboard side today. No noticeable carbon tracing past the seals or on the cups so it would seem we had one or more worn injectors and potentially out of sync.

we replaced injectors, set sync, set fuel, set overhead, etc. should be good now

Videos don’t really do much justice but the higher pitch knocking is gone and the engine runs well under no load. Have not been able to run the boat just yet

Not that it pertains to your recent work, but just wanted to make sure you guys were aware of these apps.
Cat central and Cat inspect.
Hope they help.

 

[Strecker25]

Not that it pertains to your recent work, but just wanted to make sure you guys were aware of these apps.
Cat central and Cat inspect.
Hope they help.

good apps. SIS mobile is good too

 

[mrsrobinson]

Changed the oil and filter in both engines yesterday..This was my first time doing this on this boat. It was also my first time using a reverso. The reverso is amazing especially compared to the pumps I used on my previous big block gas engines. Oil filter is a breeze on the starboard engine, a pain in the butt on the port engine. Pulled samples as well to send to Blackstone.

I noticed there are two drain plugs on the oil pan. The reverso hose connects to the one further forward. This plug looks to be a little bit higher than the plug behind it. Is there a specific reason for this? I would think it would be better to use the plug closest to the stern, which is lower in the oil pan and would pick up more oil.
I read said 22 quarts, 5 gallons, 6 gallon 7 gallons to fill the engines back up. I had 15 gallons with me, I put 6 gallons in each engine, warmed them up, checked for leaks, then went home. How much do these engines take when replacing the oil filter?

 

[dtfeld]

Per the CAT Operation and Maintenance Manual, 26.4 Qts with standard oil filter. That’s pretty close to what I add back every time I’ve done it. Dipsticks are accurate for checking level. Run idle for 2 minutes wait a min of 10 min to check.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Where do you purchase your Racor 30 Microns from and what's the price with shipping? Looking for a good filter from a reliable source.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Per the CAT Operation and Maintenance Manual, 26.4 Qts with standard oil filter. That’s pretty close to what I add back every time I’ve done it. Dipsticks are accurate for checking level. Run idle for 2 minutes wait a min of 10 min to check.

The challenge is the new oil is so clear, and my eyes are so old, I can't see it on the dipstick

 

[bbwhitejr]

Where do you purchase your Racor 30 Microns from and what's the price with shipping? Looking for a good filter from a reliable source.

I used to get them from Amazon...

Bennett

 

[bbwhitejr]

The challenge is the new oil is so clear, and my eyes are so old, I can't see it on the dipstick

Pull the dip stick and have a blue paper towel in the other hand. Place the end of the dip stick on the paper towel and kind of roll it out of the way without moving it up/down or left/right. You can see the level on the paper towel. Ask me how I know...

Bennett