Interesting topic, I can’t recall if I installed that cap last time I did ours. Going to need to check it out before the season gets going!
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I highly doubt the shafts need replacing as they really don’t wear. I rebuilt mine and it was simple and inexpensive. Mine were dripping at the shaft before and are working great now.Unfortunately the major rebuild kits are almost as much as the whole pump if you include a new shaft. If you have the tools/ability to rebuild yourself, you can save a few $$$. However, no warranty.
MarinePumpDirect.com has the 1732C for $650 for the whole pump which should work for both the 3116 and 3126.
I bought new pumps several years ago and sent the old ones to designatedengineer.com for a quote. Hoped to reuse/keep as spares. He still has them and no quote. Good luck getting them rebuilt.
No pilot light on the glendinning on minexand I've severcseen that option on a sea ray. But if I were to add one, I'd probably add wiring and pilot lights for the CAT air heaters while I was at it.Does anyone have a PILOT LIGHT on the Glendenning synchronizer?
My 1996 450DA does not have one, so we go with the GUT, easy enough.
Anyone?
BUELLER ?
BEST !
RWS
Does anyone have a PILOT LIGHT on the Glendenning synchronizer?
My 1996 450DA does not have one, so we go with the GUT, easy enough.
Anyone?
BUELLER ?
BEST !
RWS
The minor rebuild kits (basically the seal, wear plate and impeller) are pretty reasonable if you have a shop press to do the job.I highly doubt the shafts need replacing as they really don’t wear. I rebuilt mine and it was simple and inexpensive. Mine were dripping at the shaft before and are working great now.
I'd love to have the engage/disengage switch in the throttle lever under my thumb to make it one handed operation.Mine didn't, but I added one. Used a micro-led bulb, drilled a hole and mounted it directly below the sync gauge. Instructions for wiring are in the manual. Very easy to do
I'd love to have the engage/disengage switch in the throttle lever under my thumb to make it one handed operation.
Three functions to the coolant reservoir fill cap. One is to maintain system pressurization to prevent coolant boiling, another to allow for coolant expansion as it gets hot to vent to the overflow bottle, and a third to allow coolant to be drawn back into the engine's coolant system from the overflow bottle when things cool down and the coolant contracts.Had a failed coolant reservoir cap on my Stbd 3116TA, which when tested doesn't hold pressure, so ordered a new one.
Received a 7psi cap with no rubber seal (where the cap mates with the tank filler neck).
New cap leaks coolant when the engine reaches temp...well because the engine has seen a few leagues and at some point the top of the tank filler neck bent very slightly becoming uneven. Not a problem for the old cap, which has the rubber insert because the rubber plus downward pressure of the cap when tightened effectively sealed off the uneven top surface of the tank filler neck.
Q: Has the 3116TA reservoir cap been replaced with this 7psi (pos) or is there a 13psi cap with the rubber insert that can still be ordered from Cat?
Anyway I also levelled off the top of the tank filler neck, as it was really just an outer edge that had lifted slightly. I swapped the port (13psi) cap and new stbd (7psi) cap and no more leaks at idle running temp (from either engine). My concern is that at 2300 rpm that 7psi cap without the rubber ain't going to cut it because the metal to metal mating won't be water tight unless both surfaces are perfectly level. Makes me nervous.
You might say the pressure valve will release at a low 7psi and overflow to the overflow tank, but it didn't on the stbd side...coolant just started coming out from under the cap.
Thoughts?
I saw an older friend at the Yacht Club meeting on Wednesday evening, who has a 450 SD w/ 3126's. He started telling me about this past weekend, Rod & his wife had loaded up the boat after not being out for 3-4 months. They got all prepped and the port engine turned over, but it would not kick on & run. I told him about my experience with a similar issue. I told him about these great guys on this forum (FW & Barlow) who told me about this 12-volt relay in the box at the head of the engine. I asked him what time he could meet me on Sunday (today) at his boat and he says noon... I bought a new relay at O'Reilly's on Thursday and swung by my boat and grabbed my fused jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. I meet him at his boat today, I first had him turn it over and yes confirmed no combustion. I then put on my jumper to the positive side of the fuel solenoid, tapped 12v positive on a battery & bam the solenoid slammed back. I asked him to turn it over again, and it fired right up purred like a kitty, I asked him to kill it, but it kept running as I had forgotten that you have to pull the wire off to get it to die. (we laughed about that) I then swapped out the relay and re-fired the engine again purring... He tried to pay me and I said no several times. I said someday I may ask you for a favor, that day may never come, but remember if it does you can't say no...(we laughed again) PS: starboard tried to run but wouldn't stay running, fuel primer pump was unscrewed.
There is a 13 or 14 psi cap…you received the wrong part. I replace when I replace the ELC along with the thermostats.Had a failed coolant reservoir cap on my Stbd 3116TA, which when tested doesn't hold pressure, so ordered a new one.
Received a 7psi cap with no rubber seal (where the cap mates with the tank filler neck).
New cap leaks coolant when the engine reaches temp...well because the engine has seen a few leagues and at some point the top of the tank filler neck bent very slightly becoming uneven. Not a problem for the old cap, which has the rubber insert because the rubber plus downward pressure of the cap when tightened effectively sealed off the uneven top surface of the tank filler neck.
Q: Has the 3116TA reservoir cap been replaced with this 7psi (pos) or is there a 13psi cap with the rubber insert that can still be ordered from Cat?
Anyway I also levelled off the top of the tank filler neck, as it was really just an outer edge that had lifted slightly. I swapped the port (13psi) cap and new stbd (7psi) cap and no more leaks at idle running temp (from either engine). My concern is that at 2300 rpm that 7psi cap without the rubber ain't going to cut it because the metal to metal mating won't be water tight unless both surfaces are perfectly level. Makes me nervous.
You might say the pressure valve will release at a low 7psi and overflow to the overflow tank, but it didn't on the stbd side...coolant just started coming out from under the cap.
Thoughts?
Well, I ain't Bueller, but here is my red-neck opinion on the pilot light question.Does anyone have a PILOT LIGHT on the Glendenning synchronizer?
My 1996 450DA does not have one, so we go with the GUT, easy enough.
Anyone?
BUELLER ?
BEST !
RWS
I had a pinhole leak in the port coolant tank that only dripped at running temp, but that was an easy one.Any issues with leaving dye in the coolant? Lucky me I have slow coolant leak in the worst possible place, the Stbd side of the Stbd engine. Had to remove the exhaust elbow and hose just to be able to see the Stbd side. Pressurized they cooling system, but still can't find the leak as its a ery slow but steady leak. The coolant makes its way to the center of the underside of the oil pan and drips down from there. Next step is dye and UV light.
Cat potentially makes a coolant dye, so I'd check with them.
I see the coolant regulator junction box as the highest potential for leaks given it's a universal joining point for so many different hoses plus it has a metal to metal mating surface requiring a gasket in the most impossible place (at least on the 3116).
View attachment 159741
@Chris L , also are you sure there is an external leak? Coolant might be burning off, or entering the "oil stream", if there is an internal gasket fault or (worst case) crack in the head.
Not an answer to the dye but my leak appeared to be coming from the same side. Turns out it was actually coming from the tiny hose that joins the water pump up to the expansion tank (I think that’s where the connection goes)
Ifs located behind the airsep and was as simple as tightening the clamps.