Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

[ttmott]

Thanks. Since that side is so hard to access and I've already yanked the exhaust hose, might as well replace all the hoses/clamps. Ordered new hoses and constant tension clamps.

Every time you replace the raw water pump impeller on that side the exhaust has to be removed; just one of those things....
Anyhow, coolant that is dripping from the oil pan typically is sourced around the engines accessory drive end somewhere under the heat exchanger like what @Strecker25 was saying - coolant pump seal for example. Many times a leak doesn't become apparent until the engine is hot and running.

 

[Magic]

My Cat mechanic used a radiator pressure test kit to check where the leaks were.
Attached it to the top of the coolant tank and pressurized to 15psi...waited 5 mins. If pressure is still 15psi...no leaks, otherwise take a look around hoses, gaskets, etc and look for drops of pink coolant. The 15psi pressure will push coolant through any leak points and saves having to warm the engine up.

Worked well and can also pressure test the cap.

Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Acymner-Radi...11-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I think it’s fine. You’re clearly not burning oil as the relief ports aren’t staining up the hull, I assume the engines don’t smoke much after warmed up? If the oil cooler was leaking you’d know that, too.

a quart on a dipstick that measures roughly 7 gallons is next to impossible to measure anyway.

Oil change time is coming, so I have simply been watching the oli level and not adding anything.

Havent added anything since last August.

Seems to me - and I have zero data to prove this, that I am using zero oil when I maintain the oil level at the fill mark.

Am I alone on this?

BEST !

RWS

 

[The Bill Collector]

Oil change time is coming, so I have simply been watching the oli level and not adding anything.

Havent added anything since last August.

Seems to me - and I have zero data to prove this, that I am using zero oil when I maintain the oil level at the fill mark.

Am I alone on this?

BEST !

RWS

I have never had to add oil.... I average 75 hours per year.

 

[Chris L]

Oil change time is coming, so I have simply been watching the oli level and not adding anything.

Havent added anything since last August.

Seems to me - and I have zero data to prove this, that I am using zero oil when I maintain the oil level at the fill mark.

Am I alone on this?

BEST !

RWS

Not alone. Average 80-100 hrs a season and never had to add oil. I also change it annually at end of season before winter layup.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

To rephrase the question:

When I maintain the oil level in my 3126's at the full mark, I find myself adding oil.

Leaving the level at the ADD mark, seems I use no oil.

No soot, I mean absolutely CLEAN, no blowby, no oil mist, passed the CAT blow-by test.

Here in SW FL, running 190 thermostats and Rotella 40 weight oil.

Are y'all seeing similar results?

BEST !

RWS

 

[ttmott]

To rephrase the question:

When I maintain the oil level in my 3126's at the full mark, I find myself adding oil.

Leaving the level at the ADD mark, seems I use no oil.

No soot, I mean absolutely CLEAN, no blowby, no oil mist, passed the CAT blow-by test.

Here in SW FL, running 190 thermostats and Rotella 40 weight oil.

Are y'all seeing similar results?

BEST !

RWS

That was true on my 400DA Cat 3116 engines also - I attributed it to the crankshaft windage didn't whip up the oil when at the minimum level. When the oil is in a mist in the crankcase due to windage that oil gets taken in through the crankcase ventilation system and a part that doesn't coalesce gets taken through the turbocharger and into the cylinders.

For my Cummins QSM11's they recommend the oil level be kept at the minimum mark probably for the same reasons.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

That was true on my 400DA Cat 3116 engines also - I attributed it to the crankshaft windage didn't whip up the oil when at the minimum level. When the oil is in a mist in the crankcase due to windage that oil gets taken in through the crankcase ventilation system and a part that doesn't coalesce gets taken through the turbocharger and into the cylinders.

For my Cummins QSM11's they recommend the oil level be kept at the minimum mark probably for the same reasons.

My thoughts exactly, however logically, each 3126 should behave the same.

Results seem to vary.

BEST !

RWS

 

[ttmott]

My thoughts exactly, however logically, each 3126 should behave the same.

Results seem to vary.

BEST !

RWS

But, consider that the oil level marks are put on the dipsticks unique to the engine installation. compare the dipsitcks.

 

[fwebster]

Caterpillar had Sea Ray fill the engines with the amount of oil they considered as full, then each dipstick was marked at that amount of oil by scribing the full mark with a file. That is why Tom's comment is meaningful.

As far as actual oil consumption goes I ran about 1650 hours on a pair of 3116's in my 450DA, between 75 and 150 hours per year depending upon local weather and other family member's scheduling. I never added any oil to either engine……….both engines were still at the full mark whenever I changed the lube oil……….this was over 26 years of ownership.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I'm going to continue maintaining the oil level at the low dipstick mark, even after my upcoming oil change.

Will monitor the results and hope the trend continues.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

My thoughts exactly, however logically, each 3126 should behave the same.

Results seem to vary.

BEST !

RWS

this comment was referring to ALL 3126 engines. My results are consistent between the two in the engine bay.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

As I get closer to getting this boat and her systems to BASELINE, this weekend I'm installing NEW AIRSEP intake air filters and breathers, as what is there is pretty beat up.

REALLY BEAT UP !

They are all oiled up and ready to go, and I have the spring removal tool.

Came across some discussion on BOATDIESEL regarding cleaning the crankcase breather canister with solvent/dawn/diesel fuel/brakekleen - etc.

I was unaware of this required service. Likely it has never been done.

Planning on doing this tomorrow.

Can anyone please shed some light on the removal process?

BEST !

RWS

 

[The Bill Collector]

Came across some discussion on BOATDIESEL regarding cleaning the crankcase breather canister with solvent/dawn/diesel fuel/brakekleen - etc.

I just bought new ones, they are pretty inexpensive...

 

[Magic]

As I get closer to getting this boat and her systems to BASELINE, this weekend I'm installing NEW AIRSEP intake air filters and breathers, as what is there is pretty beat up.

REALLY BEAT UP !

They are all oiled up and ready to go, and I have the spring removal tool.

Came across some discussion on BOATDIESEL regarding cleaning the crankcase breather canister with solvent/dawn/diesel fuel/brakekleen - etc.

I was unaware of this required service. Likely it has never been done.

Planning on doing this tomorrow.

Can anyone please shed some light on the removal process?

BEST !

RWS

I took mine off and cleaned them in a half a bucket of petrol (gasoline) from the outboard. It makes a huge mess and the canister doesn’t come apart, but they’re easy enough to uninstall/reinstall.

Next time, I’ll just buy new ones if they’re cheap because the mess is excessive.

 

[Chris L]

As I get closer to getting this boat and her systems to BASELINE, this weekend I'm installing NEW AIRSEP intake air filters and breathers, as what is there is pretty beat up.

REALLY BEAT UP !

They are all oiled up and ready to go, and I have the spring removal tool.

Came across some discussion on BOATDIESEL regarding cleaning the crankcase breather canister with solvent/dawn/diesel fuel/brakekleen - etc.

I was unaware of this required service. Likely it has never been done.

Planning on doing this tomorrow.

Can anyone please shed some light on the removal process?

BEST !

RWS

Easy job. Remove the hose and the single clamp that attaches the breather to its mount. Soak it in solvent (I used gasoline) and let it dry out. I hit it with an air compressor nozzle and let it sit for 24 hrs to compeltely dry. I would suggest replacing rather than reusing the o-ring. They're cheap at your local CAT dealer.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

planned on using BRAKEKLEEN

Good idea or no?

BEST !

RWS

 

[Strecker25]

It’s just a stainless steel screen so pretty much anything works. I used dawn and let them dry overnight when I got out boat, they’ve stayed clean since then

 

[Chris L]

planned on using BRAKEKLEEN

Good idea or no?

BEST !

RWS

Anything that doesn't leave a residue will work. Brakekleen is fine..

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Crankcase breathers cleaned, new filters oiled and installed.