ZZ13
Well-Known Member
Cummins part number 3916301 for the mag switch.
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How much are they charging you for the elbows? After a thorough search I haven't found anywhere that stocks them.No idea, maybe zincs, from outside looks perfect from inside all pitted
Just for precaution I will fabricate 2 new ones with D’Angelo.
3916302 works as wellCummins part number 3916301 for the mag switch.
Could someone post the step by step process for changing the t-stats. Looks like the alternator needs to come off. Maybe be some other stuff. Thanks in advance.
Straight drives, so t-stats on port engine are to the inside. Plenty of front, side, top access there. Starboard t-stats are outward so mostly working from the top there. I'll practice and refine a prices on the port side, first.FWIW, I was able to drop the alternator enough to take the thermostat housing out sideways, because of that I didn't remove the tank and unhook those little hoses, just the big one going to the heat exchanger. The belt tensioner had to come off on mine, there's two flat head countersunk bolts that use torx bit under there that go into the side of the housing.
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Maybe a little harder to access everything on your boats by the looks of your pictures, are you able to get behind the engine or are you working leaning over the top?
FWIW my 2001 had 160s. Have a talk with seaboard marine. They can recommend the right temp based on how you run the boat.Bill, might be an opportunity to change that coolant return hose from the H/X pipe to the block on the starboard side that we talked about. Also be sure to buy t-stats with your serial number, 2000-2001 could be 160 or 180 degrees.
Haha, I hear ya. But it is a cake walk compared to R&R the port engine water pump. That is my least favorite mechanical job on the 400dbThanks Paul! Oh joy, I get to remove the starboard belt guard again. One of my least favorite recurring things to do.
Mine are 160s. Never wavered a bit from 160 on either engine in my five years of ownership.FWIW my 2001 had 160s. Have a talk with seaboard marine. They can recommend the right temp based on how you run the boat.
Haha, I hear ya. But it is a cake walk compared to R&R the port engine water pump. That is my least favorite mechanical job on the 400db
Well, if the engines got regular annual maintenance/monitoring and cooling system cleaning every 2-3 years, there really isn't anything special about 1000 hours. That said, if you don't think any of the following had ever been done I'd do them:We are coming up to our 1000 service. Does anyone have a list on what is involved with the 1000 hour cummins service
Thanks John
thanks that article is good reading. Oil was taken after engine heated up and i pulled it mid stream from the oil pump out. My original oil sample was last year when we purchased and the levels then were within range and showed very low Aluminum 2 ppm. I was thinking possible piston wear.Nice article on taking oil samples and interpretation of elevated Aluminum.
https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/maintenance/aluminum-engine-oil
The first question I would ask is when was a sample taken previous to this one? Next, was this sample taken correctly (engine run till hot, sample line adequately purged before grabbing sample)?
Jaybeaux
I would do it again by using an extraction tube down the dipstick tube about 2 inches into the oil. That guarantees no contamination. I personally don't trust samples taken any other way (hey, but that's just me).thanks that article is good reading. Oil was taken after engine heated up and i pulled it mid stream from the oil pump out. My original oil sample was last year when we purchased and the levels then were within range and showed very low Aluminum 2 ppm. I was thinking possible piston wear.
John